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Bobby123179

Beginner Airsofter looking to buy a better AEG!

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Hi, I have a younger brother who is starting to want a better airsoft AEG. He currently has a Dboys M4 (About $150, metal body. Not a terrible gun. But not very accurate, and range is low. And fire rate is somewhat pathetic). One of his friends is willing to purchase it for about $120 (With a better battery). And he has $110 in-store credit to evike. I know, evike sucks. But, what he wants this gun for is for longer ranges, so it must be accurate. He wants the fire rate to be decent (15-25 BB's a second). He just basically wants the best gun he can get for about $230 (I can chip in a few dollars if the gun is slightly more expensive. Like $250).

 

So, the requirements:

 

-Budget is around $250

-Has to be from evike.com (and in stock)

-FPS below 400

-Decent range

-RoF between 15-25 BB's per second

 

And please, if there's any upgrades, post what upgrades he'll need and give links. Again, they all have to be from evike *Sigh*

 

So, thanks for the help!

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<AT>Coyote- Because it's falling apart. Selector switch is about ready to fall off. Stock might fall off any day now. And he's left handed (probably should have mentioned that). The gun is meant for someone who's right handed. So it doesn't work. And well, he just doesn't really like M4's. So even if he upgraded it, he still wouldn't like using it much. But if you have some ideas that'll make the gun 100X better for like less than 100 dollars, that'd be great! And I'd love to hear your opinions.

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My brother is turning 13, he's a lefty, and he has the same gun. You can replace the stock and tighten the selector switch easy. As for upgrades, a new cutoff lever, better motor, piston, and spring would work, then run a bigger battery. You could probably replace the whole gearbox though, it'd be a bit over 100 but it would be like buying a new internal setup. Except it'd be better depending on what you got.

 

A new cutoff lever is mandatory, the ones Dboys makes SUCK and will mess up on you.

Edited by Coyote98

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My brother is turning 13, he's a lefty, and he has the same gun. You can replace the stock and tighten the selector switch easy. As for upgrades, a new cutoff lever, better motor, piston, and spring would work, then run a bigger battery. You could probably replace the whole gearbox though, it'd be a bit over 100 but it would be like buying a new internal setup. Except it'd be better depending on what you got.

 

A new cutoff lever is mandatory, the ones Dboys makes SUCK and will mess up on you.

 

I know I can replace the stock. I know how to do that quite easily. I don't know how to tighten the selector switch. I'll look up a video. I have no idea what a cutoff lever is. Bear with me, I'm mostly a beginner myself. I'm just a few years older, so I understand how the guns work a little better than he does. But I'm still basically a beginner with very little knowledge in upgrading. I also don't know what cutoff levers, motors, pistons, and springs are compatible with this gun. I know you probably won't go out of your way to find what I need, but if you know of some places (doesn't have to be from evike. It can be any website) that sell the parts my brother would need to upgrade this gun, and you could link me to them, that would be amazing. If not, that's fine. I don't expect you to. I just really don't know where I would start. That's all.

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A cutoff lever is a little metal bugger that takes care of safe-semi-auto. Google it and you can get like one bajillion pictures. And it's a Version 2 gearbox, which means Version 2 gearbox pieces fit in it.

 

As for links, there are a ton of options, so I will spare you the time of linking it all. Look around ASF and on the interwebs and you will find out everything about it. There are pinned threads on the parts of a gearbox if I am correct(haven't checked in a while).

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Okay. Thanks for the help! My brother's actually interested. But in your opinion, what parts are MOST necessary to improve this gun?

 

Also, his biggest problem with the gun is the fact that it's very VERY inaccurate. What would you suggest he get to greatly improve the accuracy at ranges, and reduce BB spread. Thanks!

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New piston and piston head, spring, gears, cutoff lever of course, motor. Then you can get a tightbore barrel for accuracy, and cover it with a suppressor. Then get a nice battery and you're good.

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Eh, semi-auto won't work. Just safe and full auto. Oh and remember to get a suppressor to cover the tightbore.

 

Okay, well, we'll just wait to replace the cutoff lever. Once it breaks, we'll fix it. But for now, a tightbore barrel sounds like a good plan. We'll add upgrades to it as we gain more of a budget. But for right now, we're on a pretty tight budget.

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Guest alberty

Consider getting a new bucking and nub in addition to a tightbore barrel. Also make sure that the barrel is cleaned (stock or tightbore) and make sure it's lined up correctly. Sometimes the inner barrel can accidentally get rotated off position so that the hop window is facing the wrong way and putting spin in the wrong direction on the BB.

 

For a tight budget, it is much better to just fix and improve the current gun you have. Gearbox work will seem difficult for beginners but you have to start at some point.

Edited by alberty

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Consider getting a new bucking and nub in addition to a tightbore barrel. Also make sure that the barrel is cleaned (stock or tightbore) and make sure it's lined up correctly. Sometimes the inner barrel can accidentally get rotated off position so that the hop window is facing the wrong way and putting spin in the wrong direction on the BB.

 

For a tight budget, it is much better to just fix and improve the current gun you have. Gearbox work will seem difficult for beginners but you have to start at some point.

 

Okay, you're going to have to understand that me and my brother are basically airsoft retarded. I don't know anything about internals. My friend's older brother bought and installed everything I needed in my gun for me. I just payed him. I don't know what a new bucking or nub are. Or what they do. Also, I wouldn't know the slightest thing about lining up the inner barrel. You might as well be speaking in a foreign language.

 

Also, I agree. If you're on a tight budget, it's better to just fix and improve. But his gun is going to take a lot of fixing and improving. I mean, you're all basically saying replace everything inside the gun. Keep the outer body, but then completely scrap the rest. The inner barrel, pistons, Cutoff lever, bucking, nub, spring, motor, gearbox, etc. This is also more for future reference now. He thought he was getting $110 from evike back, but apparently, they fixed his M9 pistol that he just bought, and they sent it back. So he's not getting anything. And if he's upgrading the M4, he obviously can't sell it and get like $120. So really, his budget is about $20-$30 now. So, well, yeah. Maybe he can get a $30 inner barrel (which I think he could), and I can help him install it with a little help from youtube (Shouldn't be too hard, right? Can't you just pretty much screw it on?). Point being, I kind of need to know for future reference, which he should do. Purchase a brand new gun for like $250-$300 and use it stock, or pour $200 into upgrades for his Dboys M4?

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A bucking is is just a rubber tube on the hop-up, Google the stuff and it's easy.

 

But actually the bucking died on the M4, funny I forget the one thing that gave me hell :a-laugh:

 

And yeah, gearbox work is annoying. But with a cutoff lever, bucking and nub, and a tightbore barrel and your gun will work great. You don't have to do it all at once, but it will only cost about $45-$50 minus the suppressor to cover up the barrel.

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Guest alberty

Coyote98 was probably not trying to say that you have to replace ALL of those parts. It's just that in general, more experienced players, with a budget as well, would think about replacing all of those parts in a lower-end gun. With proper tuning and stuff, you don't have to replace all of that stuff in your gearbox really. I would only say it would be really good to replace any plastic bushings and spring guides, you can definitely work with the stock piston, piston head, gears, etc...as long as they're not broken or damaged for any reason. The only immediate thing you would need to examine is your cut-off lever since you said semi-auto might not be working correctly.

 

You shouldn't rely on the "I don't know anything" excuse because I was in the same position when I first started airsoft. I didn't know anything about the internals so I eventually looked for tutorials online and asked if I had any further questions. Everyone has to start from not-knowing. I will tell you if you need a certain part by its exact name because I don't want to use some lame nickname that will confuse you later when you look for help relating to those parts.

 

I didn't think my wording choice was all jargon in that post...have you tried putting those terms in Google to identify? For example, search "airsoft bucking" and you will see that it's a rubber sleeve that covers one end of your inner barrel. But I didn't want to say "get a new rubber sleeve".

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Yeah, you don't need to take care of EVERYTHING like said, those are the most gradual upgrades. And the list in my other post is all stuff from Evike like you wanted, I could add a suppressor and it would cost about $60. And it wasn't cheapity crap either. It was somewhat good. I'm just a confusing person, trust me :a-laugh:

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Alright, thanks guys. This helped us A LOT. I appreciate it. I haven't really done any research (like I probably should have. Sorry, I'm kinda lazy!), but I appreciate the advice you've given me. For now, he's definitely going to replace the inner barrel. And probably the bucking. He's only had the gun for maybe 4-6 months, with little to no use. So most of the internals should still be in near perfect condition. So as they break, I guess we'll be replacing them. But for now, I think we'll live with just replacing the barrel for some accuracy, and maybe the bucking. It just kind of depends on his budget (he can't give me an exact number right now). Well, thanks for everything! I'll have to look up some stuff on google about part compatibility. Because I kind of have an idea of parts and such, and I understand many internal part names. But I don't know which parts are best, and which will fit in his particular gun. Once I get the right parts, installation shouldn't be a problem. But there's like 15-20 of the same part made by different companies, and they're all different sizes, All on the same website. So I don't know which one of those 15-20 I should purchase. Not saying there's a specific part like that or anything. But I'm just saying, that's typically the situation I run into with springs/barrels/bucking/pistons/spring guides/etc. So yeah. If you can explain how I can know if the part will fit in my gun and function correctly, or if you can link me to somewhere that can, that'd be amazing. Thanks for all of the help, guys!

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For barrels, it isn't that difficult. Most barrels are universal. I would get a Madbull tightbore if you're on a budget, they aren't too bad. A 363mm long 6.03 would do it, with a 4-6 inch suppressor to cover it. Because it will be longer than the stock barrel.

 

http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?cPat...oducts_id=24373

 

That's the barrel on Evike like wanted. Pretty nice, but that's just me.

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Cool! Also, it doesn't need to be on evike anymore. They fixed the M9 that he was supposed to get in-store credit for. So he's not getting that store credit. So, I can get these parts from anywhere. Also, what type of suppressor should I get? Any suggestions?

 

And when I said I didn't know what parts fit in what gun, I didn't really mean the barrel. I meant more internal parts such as pistons and springs and cutoff levers and such.

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A 14mm Counter-Clockwise suppressor works, even the JBU stuff. And TM compatible Version 2 parts will work, since it's a version 2 gearbox. Like, any Version 2 part will fit.

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Guest alberty
For barrels, it isn't that difficult. Most barrels are universal. I would get a Madbull tightbore if you're on a budget, they aren't too bad. A 363mm long 6.03 would do it, with a 4-6 inch suppressor to cover it. Because it will be longer than the stock barrel.

 

Has Bobby123179 actually listed which model of DBoys M4 we're talking about? I don't know what inner barrel length the gun in question is using. Maybe 363mm is already the included length.

 

So is it basically all version 2 parts will work with all version 2 gearboxes? Same with other versions?

 

Sort of. Most gearbox internals will crossfit within the same version, but certain parts depend on the exact model of a gun you have. For example, an M4A1 and an MP5A4 both use V2 gearboxes, but the selector plate and trigger are definitely different. The cylinder porting (hole in the cylinder) is probably different as well, and sometimes the air nozzle is different between the two as well. The rest will be cross-compatible like the gears, piston, piston head, etc...the wiring configuration will be different but compatible.

 

Same case for other gearbox versions. Some other gearbox versions may use certain V2/V3 type parts like gears and bushings. Some gearboxes use different everything like the M14's V7.

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I don't think he has... Could you link us your gun? I mean, they are all about the same anyway, but it would help when you think about it.

 

I feel stupid now.

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I don't think he has... Could you link us your gun? I mean, they are all about the same anyway, but it would help when you think about it.

 

I feel stupid now.

 

Ah, yes! I forgot. Here's the link the one he purchased:

 

http://www.airsplat.com/Itemdesc.asp?ic=ERM-BI-M4-5181M

 

That's the one. It was on sale for like $150 or something like 6 months ago.

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Guest alberty

Okay, so I think you do have a 363mm inner barrel already, so you won't need any kind of barrel extension or mock suppressor to cover it up.

 

But looking at that now, upgrading it or buying a different gun could possibly cost a similar amount. From my personal experience over the years I'd go for a different gun, but that does need money.

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Yeah... About the barrel... The front tip breaking off entirely won't affect the guns accuracy, will it? I mean, I would refer to it as the "outer barrel", but I don't know what it's actually called. The part from the rail system, to the tip of the gun, well, sort of broke off. Would that be a problem? Or not really?

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Um... You may need to get that fixed? It sounds like there are a million things wrong with this gun, could you list what all is broken?

 

Sure!

 

Things broken/wrong with the gun:

-Broken orange tip (Sorry, my brother said it was the whole barrel. Turns out, it's just like an inch of orange tip. That's all)

-Horrible accuracy (Possibly due to broken outer barrel?)

-Selector switch right about to fall off

 

Those are pretty much the issues with the gun.

Edited by Bobby123179

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Guest alberty

If it's just the orange tip, that's a removable flash hider and has no effect on the gun's performance.

 

Accuracy can be do to a number of factors. Like I mentioned before, clean the barrel with silicon oil--most likely it's probably just filthy right now.

 

After that, learn how to take the receivers apart to look at the inner barrel and hop-up unit assembly--very commonly the inner barrel has been rotated to the wrong angle, causing the hop-up unit arm to be hitting the BBs at the wrong angle.

 

Another possibility is the bucking, the barrel sleeve, being warped or damaged.

 

Selector switch being loose isn't a big deal. It can be tightened with just one screw, but otherwise it should work even if very loose.

 

In this case, it sounds like doing a few simple upgrades will save you money as compared to buying a new gun at this point. It doesn't sound like there's anything severely wrong with the gun.

Edited by alberty

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Yeah, there's really nothing seriously wrong with the gun. The only problem is, I have no idea how to do any of those things. I guess I'll just have to look up some videos, and hope I don't ruin the gun entirely. And the accuracy isn't THAT horrible where it seems like something's wrong with the gun. It's just... lacking. The BB spread is massive compared to my JG G36. I'll take it apart next weekend. (maybe, if I have time. I have other things to do. Homework, girlfriend, friends, helping my mom sell her house, etc.) So I'll look at it when I can. That's about all I need to know for now. Also, If you have any suggestions for things I could do to my G36 to improve it, that'd be great. It performs pretty well as it is. Good accuracy, 380 FPS, about 20 BB's per second, and nothing has broken on it yet. But I don't know. There might be something I could do on it.

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My brother is lazier than I am. Besides, I'll charge him for it and make a little cash that I can use to take the ol' gf out. ;) I'm smart! I know what I'm doing. Besides, how hard could it be using google? Probably not that hard. Then I can charge him for parts and 20 bucks for work. He'll pay it. He's an idiot.

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I thought my brother was stupid. Then he disassembled his whole airsoft M4, a Nagant revolver and a real M16 in under 10 minutes. I don't doubt him anymore.

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Guest alberty

For looking at only the hop-up unit and inner barrel, you just have to punch out 1 pin in the body and then the two receivers can separate. The only issue is I think your gun is front-wired, so you have to carefully guide the wires through, and you may or may not just need to unplug some clips in the front before doing so. When the upper receiver is off, with it comes the inner barrel and hop-up unit assembly for you to look at. You don't have to unscrew anything, all you have to do is take of the large c-clip in the assembly to take the inner barrel out and look at everything--just take everything slow so you don't rip the bucking by accident.

 

If you look online for tutorials, they should show you visually how to do this. Use words like "disassembly" or "takedown" while searching. It's an M4 AEG so you don't need to search with a specific model name, just something like "airsoft m4 disassembly" should get you some results. Without even seeing images, just look for what seems to be the forward body pin connecting the upper receiver (upper body) and lower receiver (lower body) together, that's the pin to push out.

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For looking at only the hop-up unit and inner barrel, you just have to punch out 1 pin in the body and then the two receivers can separate. The only issue is I think your gun is front-wired, so you have to carefully guide the wires through, and you may or may not just need to unplug some clips in the front before doing so. When the upper receiver is off, with it comes the inner barrel and hop-up unit assembly for you to look at. You don't have to unscrew anything, all you have to do is take of the large c-clip in the assembly to take the inner barrel out and look at everything--just take everything slow so you don't rip the bucking by accident.

 

If you look online for tutorials, they should show you visually how to do this. Use words like "disassembly" or "takedown" while searching. It's an M4 AEG so you don't need to search with a specific model name, just something like "airsoft m4 disassembly" should get you some results. Without even seeing images, just look for what seems to be the forward body pin connecting the upper receiver (upper body) and lower receiver (lower body) together, that's the pin to push out.

 

 

Okay, that really helped a lot. Thanks! I'll look up some videos.

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All thanks to your somewhat helpful friends.

 

Actually, thanks to you guys, I now understand a lot more about the internals of guns. You helped more than you think. Basically, everything you've said is new information. I pretty much knew nothing about airsoft guns before this. XD My terminology would have been like: "Um... Do I put the movey thingy into the shooty thingy and then pull this thingy down here to make it happen?" XD Yeah... So, thanks!

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