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Vinizaod

Top performing DMR: Real Sword SVD edition

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Hi guys, I just ordered a big new toy and want to upgrade it heavily. From what I've read, the RS SVD stock performance is very good. However, I want it to be better than very good. I want to have a top 5 dmr in the entire state. Money is not important, only quality. I have already dropped close to 4 digits on the gun, scope, and mags, whatever the upgrades cost is a drop in the bucket. Just nothing unreasonable like $300 custom barrels etc.

 

What I have:

 

Real Sword SVD

4x midcap magazine

6x42 real steel belarussian POSP scope

 

What I want: maximum accuracy and range possible with reasonable reliability, 550 fps max

 

Current ideas for upgrade parts:

inner barrel: ???? brand (have been recommended prometheus)

some variation RHop (I would preferably send the barrel to a tech/have the tech order the barrel and install the rhop and mail the whole unit to me)

Spring: M150/M170? Realsword and red-alliance claim it will take a M170 with no modification. If I remember right from my sniper days those are the 550fps springs.

Fine AOE adjustment/compression tech work

BBs: extreme high grade .40+ ??? Brand

11.1V Airsoft Elite stick LiPo

some mosfet: can install myself. Just a basic one to keep the LiPo from arcing the trigger contacts.

Deans wiring

 

 

 

Let me know what you think of the parts list, any brands or techs recommended etc. I have access to a decent local tech that should have experience with real sword (the store used to sell RS Type 56s and SVDs) but he seems to be more good at fixing broken guns than extreme optimization.

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Oh buddy, this could be so much fun.

 

In order:

Steel barrel. Prometheus is easy to recommend, PDI if you have an unlimited budget. They're CHF, which will be important in a moment. You'll want/need further modifications to this barrel as well specifically lapping, locking down (bedding if you want it to be permanent for some arbitrary reason), and if you're in the mood to play with mods..... hehehe

ER-hop. I have a biased perspective on who I think should do the work, so don't take my word for it. ;)

Sure if you can stuff one of those high power 3J springs in there. They take extended rack pistons, so I do believe you can/should use the extended GB springs. An upgraded buffer is of course also recommended.

"Fine AOE adjustment/compression tech work" Yada yada blah blah

"BBs: extreme high grade .40+ ??? Brand" Actually think more about .66s. Far more precise and consistent.

"11.1V Airsoft Elite stick LiPo" No crappy stick lipos. Try at least something decent.

 

RS does weird things with their motors. They're only semi-compatible in some cases. Never the less.......

 

Summon Maekii

Edited by hunterseeker5

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Oh buddy, this could be so much fun.

 

In order:

Steel barrel. Prometheus is easy to recommend, PDI if you have an unlimited budget. They're CHF, which will be important in a moment. You'll want/need further modifications to this barrel as well specifically lapping, locking down (bedding if you want it to be permanent for some arbitrary reason), and if you're in the mood to play with mods..... hehehe

ER-hop. I have a biased perspective on who I think should do the work, so don't take my word for it. ;)

Sure if you can stuff one of those high power 3J springs in there. They take extended rack pistons, so I do believe you can/should use the extended GB springs. An upgraded buffer is of course also recommended.

"Fine AOE adjustment/compression tech work" Yada yada blah blah

"BBs: extreme high grade .40+ ??? Brand" Actually think more about .66s. Far more precise and consistent.

"11.1V Airsoft Elite stick LiPo" No crappy stick lipos. Try at least something decent.

 

RS does weird things with their motors. They're only semi-compatible in some cases. Never the less.......

 

Summon Maekii

bolded everything I don't understand/have never heard of.

 

I feel like .66s are just a liiitttle bit overkill. Yes this gun is supposed to be the cheater annihalator but I don't want to knock people out with a few headshots.

 

you've got a pm coming

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Heavier BB doesn't mean more deadly.

 

KE = 1/2 MV^2

It's the KE, which is measure in Joule (J), that's important.

 

Assuming both have enough structural integrity to not crack/change shape on impact, a .40g BB flying at 389ft/s and a .20g BB flying at 550ft/s will hurt and penetrate as much on impact.

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That HS5 guy.

 

He is not gud at tech.

 

dun trust him

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Heavier BB doesn't mean more deadly.

 

KE = 1/2 MV^2

It's the KE, which is measure in Joule (J), that's important.

 

Assuming both have enough structural integrity to not crack/change shape on impact, a .40g BB flying at 389ft/s and a .20g BB flying at 550ft/s will hurt and penetrate as much on impact.

At a distance, the heavier BB is indeed going to hurt more as the energy would be retained longer by the heavier BB. At muzzle velocity though this concept is true.

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So we're debating the safety of high mass ammo now? I'd argue you'd need to set safe KE outputs at the muzzle, period. You can't assure, particularly in a combat environment, that there won't be a negligent discharge. Either its safe, or its not; this guess range game doesn't cut it.

 

Beyond that, I'd refer you to this thread, taken straight out of the bottom link in my sig:

http://forums.airsoftmechanics.com/index.php?topic=9204.0

 

And how the hell did I end up with more posts on this forum than you soccer77?

Edited by hunterseeker5

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I apologize, I thought that you meant this. Never mind. Try an M150 and a madbull barrel. You have a PM incoming.

 

HS5, why are you recommending him a Madbull barrel if you stated in your barrel thread that they were inconsistent? It's a budget barrel and OP stated that he wasn't afraid to dump more money into his SVD as long as they weren't excessively costly. So why suggest a Madbull over a Prometheus/PDI?

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And how the hell did I end up with more posts on this forum than you soccer77?

 

I stopped posting and being active on these forums in Fall 2011, I think I made 4 posts since then.

 

I felt like I was just repeating myself on every BB thread and DMR thread and just got bored.

 

However, I do feel inadequate with my low poasting

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as much info HS5 has on AEG's, he got several things wrong regarding the RS SVD.

 

1. The motor is a standard short type. no weird things regarding the motor itself, but because there are 4 gears instead of three, you need to reverse the polarity on the motor. However, you really shouldn't get an aftermarket motor. You just don't need to. The stock motor is a ferrous motor, not neo, but that is irrelevant due to the fact that it has 4 gears. A neo motor will make no difference.

 

2. DO NOT use a extended gearbox spring. The spring used in the SVD is a standard AEG spring. If you look inside the piston itself, you'll see risers built into the piston itself that compensates for the longer piston. That being said, OP, I recommend getting a aftermarket spring guide. The stock spring guide does not allow you to use a screw driver to guide the spring guide into the gearbox. I use a standard V2 ball bearing spring guide from madbull with the fins cut off, and it works fine. You can easily get a m170 in the gearbox if you replace the stock spring guide.

 

Now HS5, I have a question. are there any detrimental effects to cutting off the fins on the spring guide?

 

3. ER-Hop will be harder to do. The hop window is much smaller than a V2 hop up unit. it's pretty much only big enough to fit a single, standard nub in there. The pressure will be very uneven along the length of the ER-Hop, but snibble shims should help.

 

4. You really don't need to do anything in order to secure the inner or outer barrel. I don't know whether you meant locking down the outer or inner barrel, so might as well address both. The outer barrel is secured extremely well against the receiver by 2 monster grub screws underneath the rear sight. The inner diameter of outer barrel is so close to the OD of the inner barrel, that it is extremely secure. Plus, the inner barrel and outer barrel are braced with 2 grub screws at the hop up unit. Don't over tighten these. if you do, you'll need a new hop up unit.

 

There is also a notch in the hop up unit that marries perfectly with a protrusion on the gearbox, preventing the hop up unit and barrel from turning.

 

5. you don't need to do much compression work. It's pretty much perfect in it's stock configuration. AOE is a definite must though, especially on a m170. I think one of the members stripped his piston on a m170 within the first 100 shots without AOE correction.

 

Now, regarding mosfets: Either get an AB mosfet, or a mosfet with burst settings. The RS SVD is NOTORIOUS for jamming on semi auto. The only way to unjam is to remove the magazine, and press a small plate inside the receiver, and have it fire on full auto to unjam. If you're trying to build the perfect DMR, get rid of the jamming issue. Yes, AB mosfets aren't that great, but you could also get a mosfet with burst features. Set the gun on full auto by locking the cut off switch to its disengaged position, 1 shot burst, and you won't have the jamming problem either. Plus, you can do an easy hair trigger setup like that. However, my experience with burst mosfets with the RS SVD has not been so great. But I was running a burst wizard king kong, so idk if that played any part. Even when I set the settings to one round burst, it would sometimes give me two rounds, or no rounds at all. It was REALLY finicky. So go with the AB mosfet to be safe.

 

edit: regarding BB's: I would imagine .66's being more expensive than .40's... and you'll be spamming the trigger on the SVD. Just a heads up. You'll be using a lot more ammo than you think.

Edited by sniperx2s

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So we're debating the safety of high mass ammo now? I'd argue you'd need to set safe KE outputs at the muzzle, period. You can't assure, particularly in a combat environment, that there won't be a negligent discharge. Either its safe, or its not; this guess range game doesn't cut it.

 

Beyond that, I'd refer you to this thread, taken straight out of the bottom link in my sig:

http://forums.airsoftmechanics.com/index.php?topic=9204.0

 

And how the hell did I end up with more posts on this forum than you soccer77?

I'd read it but it mandates that I register on the site for access. Technically speaking though, the mass argument is valid. Practically though, you are right. It's much easier (and probably safer) to adhere to a standard FPS (or energy) limit versus trying to pick apart the science behind the safety and come up with proprietary distance limitations unique to each gun in question.

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as much info HS5 has on AEG's, he got several things wrong regarding the RS SVD.

 

1. The motor is a standard short type. no weird things regarding the motor itself, but because there are 4 gears instead of three, you need to reverse the polarity on the motor. However, you really shouldn't get an aftermarket motor. You just don't need to. The stock motor is a ferrous motor, not neo, but that is irrelevant due to the fact that it has 4 gears. A neo motor will make no difference.

 

2. DO NOT use a extended gearbox spring. The spring used in the SVD is a standard AEG spring. If you look inside the piston itself, you'll see risers built into the piston itself that compensates for the longer piston. That being said, OP, I recommend getting a aftermarket spring guide. The stock spring guide does not allow you to use a screw driver to guide the spring guide into the gearbox. I use a standard V2 ball bearing spring guide from madbull with the fins cut off, and it works fine. You can easily get a m170 in the gearbox if you replace the stock spring guide.

 

Now HS5, I have a question. are there any detrimental effects to cutting off the fins on the spring guide?

 

3. ER-Hop will be harder to do. The hop window is much smaller than a V2 hop up unit. it's pretty much only big enough to fit a single, standard nub in there. The pressure will be very uneven along the length of the ER-Hop, but snibble shims should help.

 

4. You really don't need to do anything in order to secure the inner or outer barrel. I don't know whether you meant locking down the outer or inner barrel, so might as well address both. The outer barrel is secured extremely well against the receiver by 2 monster grub screws underneath the rear sight. The inner diameter of outer barrel is so close to the OD of the inner barrel, that it is extremely secure. Plus, the inner barrel and outer barrel are braced with 2 grub screws at the hop up unit. Don't over tighten these. if you do, you'll need a new hop up unit.

 

There is also a notch in the hop up unit that marries perfectly with a protrusion on the gearbox, preventing the hop up unit and barrel from turning.

 

5. you don't need to do much compression work. It's pretty much perfect in it's stock configuration. AOE is a definite must though, especially on a m170. I think one of the members stripped his piston on a m170 within the first 100 shots without AOE correction.

 

Now, regarding mosfets: Either get an AB mosfet, or a mosfet with burst settings. The RS SVD is NOTORIOUS for jamming on semi auto. The only way to unjam is to remove the magazine, and press a small plate inside the receiver, and have it fire on full auto to unjam. If you're trying to build the perfect DMR, get rid of the jamming issue. Yes, AB mosfets aren't that great, but you could also get a mosfet with burst features. Set the gun on full auto by locking the cut off switch to its disengaged position, 1 shot burst, and you won't have the jamming problem either. Plus, you can do an easy hair trigger setup like that. However, my experience with burst mosfets with the RS SVD has not been so great. But I was running a burst wizard king kong, so idk if that played any part. Even when I set the settings to one round burst, it would sometimes give me two rounds, or no rounds at all. It was REALLY finicky. So go with the AB mosfet to be safe.

 

edit: regarding BB's: I would imagine .66's being more expensive than .40's... and you'll be spamming the trigger on the SVD. Just a heads up. You'll be using a lot more ammo than you think.

 

I "thought" the SVD didn't have an extended gearbox, but I was beginning to think that I had originally thought wrong (confusing statement... I know). Thanks for clarifying.

 

The hop up unit area makes a lot of sense too judging from what I have seen.

 

I didn't know half this stuff and here I try to make myself knowledgeable about the three great Airsoft DMR models (SVD, PSG-1, SR25)

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......when I was upgrading my svds barrel I ended up getting the madbull because they were the only brand of barrel that had the longest length to the svds stock barrel even though it wasnt as long. at the time I was told that id have to have a proper length barrel custom made. but I didnt have the time or money for crap like that

 

I will say that since money doesnt seem to be an issue for you, you should try to make full use of as much of the svds outer barrel length as possible. I don't see much practical sense in having a gun that has like 6 inches of unused outer barrel length

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You really DO need a neo motor for high fps with this, even though the gear ratio is about 25:1. Not just for a faster trigger response, but for less power consumption, better battery life, and you will be running those small lipo's much safer then, because you arent drawing more amps continously than they are rated for.

 

As for the piston, the RS stock one is actually not a bad piston at all, and you should stick with them as long as they last. But if yours fail and you are looking for something different, you could try something like what I did to one of my customers SVD.

 

A lonex red with a 19 tooth rack and spacer.

 

 

Thats almost 4 Joules out of an m150 spring and the RS version has larger diameter cylinder, so expect high KE.

 

You also don't need an AB fet, because it will just enlongate your trigger response and wont actually help with trigger jams at all. Actually its the exact opposite, because of the slower trigger delay you are more likely to let go off the trigger too soon when firing quickly. BTW to bypass a trigger jam you could wire a small microswitch in parallel with the main switch, and hide it somewhere in the gun so that you can access it in case the trigger jams. Just press it once and the gearbox will cycle and the jam is released. Its basically a full auto switch so it has to be posioned so that it cant be accessed in game situations to abuse full auto firing at high fps. Here is a very crappy demonstration of what I like to do it:

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I saw that video on the micro switch. totally forgot about it. I would still like to completely remove jamming from the equation though.

 

with an m150, I saw no improvement in trigger response from upgrading to a neo. but still, the better battery life would be worth it.

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With a M150/Sp140, and decently good compression, you should be around 500-530fps,

 

Go with that.

 

 

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on second thought I'm going to stick to just under 450fps (I think the stock spring will do that). It's a rare and distinctive gun and all it takes is one guy pointing me out and a field chrono forcing .2s into a mag and it's all over if I'm running 550. Can't blend in like an SR25 or M16 DMR.

 

Ideal BB weight with ER-hop is probably a lot less than .66 in that case.

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ya know ..the rs svd is good enough that with just a few average accuracy upgrades and heavier bb's youll have one of if not the best sniper rifle at the majority of the games you play at. not many people have the money to own a rs svd or other high grade sniper rifles OR the money it takes OR the proper know how of parts to make average aeg's perform as well

 

I only have the madbull barrel, a white element h-nub, and a systema bucking in mine. thats it. with only .25's it shoots accurately at 200 ft. at least and most likely farther. bb's fly straight past the point where the bb's are visible

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found someone to do rhop

 

still need a compression wizard

 

 

It'd be a joke if the guy who's doing R-Hop can't figure out the compression......

If that's the case.....I wouldn't even send it in......

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luckily for me high quality dmr compression seems to be one of those things most able people don't want to do for any amount of money

 

 

That's a joke....how hard can compression be....?

And DMR compression is the same as everything else....

Just because it's a "DMR" doesn't mean it has different components/process for air seal....

 

Here's a better question, who is this guy who's doing R-hop for you?

 

Ask HS5, Airborne, Star_Folder etc etc if they can do compression.

All of them can do R-hop.

 

 

To respond to your PM:

No, I didn't wake up on the wrong side of the bed.

No, it's not thread "pooing"

No, it has nothing to do of my winning of the 2011 Best DMR.

 

It's the simple fact that the guy can't do compression yet claims to be able to do R-hop is highly questionable.

It's called looking out for you.

Edited by EDI 1st

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Maybe he can but doesn't want to?

 

A lot of people believe that if you want a DMR, "Okay I can build you one"

 

But if you want a "High-End DMR/ Top Performing" DMR you should do it yourself. So that's what his tech might be thinking, I haven't a clue.

 

I personally don't care if a tech builds a person a DMR, but I do believe they lose their bragging rights if they can shoot far, its not their work if they didn't put anything into it :)

Edited by soccer77

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Maybe he can but doesn't want to?

 

A lot of people believe that if you want a DMR, "Okay I can build you one"

 

But if you want a "High-End DMR/ Top Performing" DMR you should do it yourself. So that's what his tech might be thinking, I haven't a clue.

 

I personally don't care if a tech builds a person a DMR, but I do believe they lose their bragging rights if they can shoot far, its not their work if they didn't put anything into it :)

 

 

"for any amount of money"?

lol

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Ask HS5, Airborne, Star_Folder etc etc if they can do compression.

All of them can do R-hop.

I can do the R-hop, but I'll head this statement off right now and say I am not interested in taking any part of it on. I got enough work to do around here.

 

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Lets not have a pissing match over semantics. I, for example, have done R-hop installs for the odd custom shop customer, but am pretty unlikely to accept an offer for compression work so its POSSIBLE that this guy can and just doesn't want to do the compression work.

 

Of course if you can't do the compression work, at least on your own gun (as a tech) then it begs the question how you'd test any other accuracy work you'd do?

 

Anyway I guess my point is, the OP, at this point presumably "gets" that if your tech can't do compression work you should probably be skeptical of their competence. As always though, with advice from internet experts and other chairborne rangers you're welcome to ignore out advice or take it because you have no idea where its coming from.

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I can do the R-hop, but I'll head this statement off right now and say I am not interested in taking any part of it on. I got enough work to do around here.

 

I know, but I'm just saying that you guys "can" (have the ability to) do both R-hop and compression easily.

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Ask HS5, Airborne, Star_Folder etc etc if they can do compression.

All of them can do R-hop.

cross off 2

 

paging mr star_folder?

 

The guy I've contacted is skag187(@gmail), got that from clandestine airsoft who claimed he was hs5 certified. He's using pictures of the same gun for an av as HS5 (easy to tell from unique selector markings) and sent me a professional-ish list of services so he appears legit.

 

if I had to guess, while installing rhops takes a lot of knowledge/tools/etc it is probably very quick for the amount charged when you have it down and thus gives much more returns per hour teching compared to stuff like compression. Similarly, 3d printing the actual rhop bits/other stuff/whatever into molds of 100 and selling them for $10 a piece probably makes hs5 way more money than he could doing installs in the same amount of time. Both hs5 and skag having full time "real" jobs is a reasonable inference.

Edited by Bomb has been planted

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