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TammyofJam

Looking for a cheapish gun for a beginner

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Hello, I am planning to buy my first airsoft gun, and I don't really know where to start. My budget is around 100-150 dollars for the gun alone. My friend has recommended I get a M4 rifle, which seems like a good choice to me, although I would go for other options if they are better. I'm mainly going to be playing in my friends backyard, so regulations aren't much of a concern for me. That's really it, thanks for the help in advance.

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Guest alberty

If you'd like some kind of M4/M16 variation, you can look at JG, G&G, King Arms, and SRC in that price range for some brands that are reputable for quality/price ratio and upgradable/repairable both internally and externally. But, I do not recommend G&G Blowback M4s due to proprietary parts and extra work because of a totally-cosmetic feature.

 

If you'd like some kind of AK variation, look for something by CYMA or DBoys. They're the top choice for a good mix of quality and price and also upgradable internally. You can't customize the externals as much easily but they're very sturdy, full metal exteriors when you get the higher-end models. People like myself also prefer the AK platform because of the Version 3 type gearbox as opposed to the Version 2 type gearbox in the M4s. It's almost like having an M4 vs AK discussion in airsoft, except that the significant differences are mostly cosmetic when it comes to airsoft.

 

If you don't want an M4 or AK, tell us what you're more interested in.

 

 

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If you'd like some kind of M4/M16 variation, you can look at JG, G&G, King Arms, and SRC in that price range for some brands that are reputable for quality/price ratio and upgradable/repairable both internally and externally. But, I do not recommend G&G Blowback M4s due to proprietary parts and extra work because of a totally-cosmetic feature.

 

If you'd like some kind of AK variation, look for something by CYMA or DBoys. They're the top choice for a good mix of quality and price and also upgradable internally. You can't customize the externals as much easily but they're very sturdy, full metal exteriors when you get the higher-end models. People like myself also prefer the AK platform because of the Version 3 type gearbox as opposed to the Version 2 type gearbox in the M4s. It's almost like having an M4 vs AK discussion in airsoft, except that the significant differences are mostly cosmetic when it comes to airsoft.

 

If you don't want an M4 or AK, tell us what you're more interested in.

 

I'm interested in a M4, I like the look of them, and would prefer them, but as I said, if there is any other guns that are substantially better I would buy those instead. AKs also look good, but I slightly prefer the M4s, although it isn't much of a deal. I googled what you and Chibajoe said, and they all look like great guns, but I can't really decide between them because I am new to airsoft and can't really tell the difference between all those guns, if you could link maybe 2 or 3 options that would help me a lot more then listing a couple brands. Thanks.

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Guest alberty

I personally only give brand names as suggestions because when it comes to the M4 family in airsoft, there are a like a billion variations possible due to amount of parts available on the market. From the brands alone you can find many different offerings from short guns to long guns, guns with fancy rail systems or the basic M4A1, etc...and the platform itself is able to be changed to your liking with aftermarket parts at any time.

 

Just dig around with those brand names on retailer sites, and see if any of the models offered appeal to you.

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If you're asking if there is a functional difference between the various styles of guns, then the answer is no, there really isn't. ARs, AKs, FALs, HKs, etc. are all about the same once you get used to the controls. This is why alberty and I suggested brands as opposed to specific rifles: it's like telling someone to buy a Honda; regardless of what model they buy, they're going to get a good car.

 

The majority of players prefer AR/M4 style rifles, partly because there are so many variations that it's easy to find one that strikes your fancy and is suited to your style of play. That's not to say that there's anything wrong with any of the other styles of rifles, though; I personally am a bullpup guy and don't even have an M4 (although I probably should get one, just because :Dr_Evil:).

 

As far as retailers, AirsoftGI and Airsoftmegastore are my top choices, and I grudgingly appreciate that Evike seems to have a huge selection of stuff, even if their CS is a bit sketchy. Buy one of the recommended brands from a good online retailer and you should be fine.

Edited by chibajoe

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Guest alberty
I took into account what both of you said, and I think I found the gun for me. http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?...roducts_id=2108 135 dollars, has a lot of reviews, and seemingly good specs. Do you guys think this is a good choice?

 

First of all, don't rely on customer reviews from these retailer websites. The people who actually write reviews on these retailers usually:

- don't really know much about airsoft or airsoft tech work

- don't know how to write a proper review

- aren't able to compare it to other products

- and usually the retailers will tend to approve the more positive reviews as opposed to negative ones

 

Specs are good to know, of course keep in mind what each means and how it affects performance, reliability, and quality.

 

Current-generation JG M4s are okay, but I think you may want to see if ASGI has the "Enchanced" versions--I think they have slightly better gearbox internals if I've not mistaken.

 

JG M4s are good with internal quality and are compatible with almost all aftermarket M4 parts and magazines, but I don't specifically recommend an M4A1 model unless you really like the look of the M4A1 configuration. I say that because the M4A1 configured AEG means the battery wiring is stored in the handguard. That limits the size of the batteries you can use in there, sometimes it's a hassle to get your battery and wiring tucked in neatly in there, and it can make it difficult to work with installing an aftermarket rail system because of the wiring configuration.

 

For M4s, I usually recommend something that is wired to the rear like a crane stock or fixed M16-style stock because that frees up your front assembly setup.

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First of all, don't rely on customer reviews from these retailer websites. The people who actually write reviews on these retailers usually:

- don't really know much about airsoft or airsoft tech work

- don't know how to write a proper review

- aren't able to compare it to other products

- and usually the retailers will tend to approve the more positive reviews as opposed to negative ones

 

Specs are good to know, of course keep in mind what each means and how it affects performance, reliability, and quality.

 

Current-generation JG M4s are okay, but I think you may want to see if ASGI has the "Enchanced" versions--I think they have slightly better gearbox internals if I've not mistaken.

 

JG M4s are good with internal quality and are compatible with almost all aftermarket M4 parts and magazines, but I don't specifically recommend an M4A1 model unless you really like the look of the M4A1 configuration. I say that because the M4A1 configured AEG means the battery wiring is stored in the handguard. That limits the size of the batteries you can use in there, sometimes it's a hassle to get your battery and wiring tucked in neatly in there, and it can make it difficult to work with installing an aftermarket rail system because of the wiring configuration.

 

For M4s, I usually recommend something that is wired to the rear like a crane stock or fixed M16-style stock because that frees up your front assembly setup.

At ASGI, there is a pull down menu which has "Shop by popular styles", and when I mouse over that I get a lot of different choices. I was looking in M4-A1, but should I be looking instead in the M4 others, M4 RIS, M4 CQB, M16, or M16 RIS/DMR?

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Guest alberty
At ASGI, there is a pull down menu which has "Shop by popular styles", and when I mouse over that I get a lot of different choices. I was looking in M4-A1, but should I be looking instead in the M4 others, M4 RIS, M4 CQB, M16, or M16 RIS/DMR?

 

Easy, just glance through each section to see what you like.

 

Without looking at them, I am going to guess that for each one they define it as:

 

M4 RIS: Some carbine length setup with a rail system, long outer barrel

M4 CQB: shorter configuration, like the barrel stops at the front sight post or shorter. may or may not have a stock. front assembly in 7" length and shorter

M16: well, M16 variations

M16 RIS/DMR: some M16 variations with a rail system, suppressor, or different externals, etc...

 

 

 

If you have no idea what you're looking for, I recommend either an M4A1 standard configuration, or an M4 variation that has the battery going to the rear instead so you can have rails in the front without any wiring annoyances. The standard carbine length is good for all ranges of play, close or far in terms of movement for you.

Edited by alberty

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See, that helps us narrow down things tremendously. Keep in mind that ASGI coupons codes knock 20% off the price, so you could pick something a bit further up the scale and still be in your price range.

 

Keeping your feature set but adding a rail, you could move up to the SRC RIS or the JG S-System M4and still be in your price range. Both of these will give you a bit more velocity than the JG, but arn't so hot that they make back yard play not fun.

 

If you're willing to stretch your budget a bit, you could get the G&G GC16 if you're ok with the color. The plus it the metal receivers, which tend to be more durable than the polymer ones.

 

Or, you could stay with your original pick, which is a perfectly fine gun for the price.

 

ETA: What alberty said about going with the "enhanced" JGs.

Edited by chibajoe

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See, that helps us narrow down things tremendously. Keep in mind that ASGI coupons codes knock 20% off the price, so you could pick something a bit further up the scale and still be in your price range.

 

Keeping your feature set but adding a rail, you could move up to the SRC RIS or the JG S-System M4and still be in your price range. Both of these will give you a bit more velocity than the JG, but arn't so hot that they make back yard play not fun.

 

If you're willing to stretch your budget a bit, you could get the G&G GC16 if you're ok with the color. The plus it the metal receivers, which tend to be more durable than the polymer ones.

 

Or, you could stay with your original pick, which is a perfectly fine gun for the price.

 

ETA: What alberty said about going with the "enhanced" JGs.

Alright, I think I'll either buy the SRC M4 RIS AEG, or the JG M4 S-System Enhanced, but I can't really tell the difference between the two. The SRC is obviously much more expensive, but I can't really see why, could you point out the differences to me? Thanks to both of you.

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I don't really know anyone who can do that, so unless it's easy to do and I could figure it out then that's not an option

 

Go check out the upgrade/modification section of the forum.

 

On the top there's a thread pinned with all the modifications/tweaks that you need to know.

 

There are also quite a few very reputable people on this forum who can do it.

You can purchase a rifle and have it shipped directly to them to save shipping cost.

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Go check out the upgrade/modification section of the forum.

 

On the top there's a thread pinned with all the modifications/tweaks that you need to know.

 

There are also quite a few very reputable people on this forum who can do it.

You can purchase a rifle and have it shipped directly to them to save shipping cost.

I looked at a couple of those modifications in that thread you were talking about, but they seem pretty complicated and I honestly would have no idea which one to even do. I think it'd be best if I get one that's pretty good out of the box, because I don't think I'll tweak it, at least not for a while.

Edited by TammyofJam

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Alright, I think I'll either buy the SRC M4 RIS AEG, or the JG M4 S-System Enhanced, but I can't really tell the difference between the two. The SRC is obviously much more expensive, but I can't really see why, could you point out the differences to me? Thanks to both of you.

 

One big thing is that the SRC carries the battery in the stock as opposed to the JG, which carries it in the handguard. This means the SRC will have better weight balance and not be as front heavy as the JG. Internally, they are pretty comparable, except the SRC has a better motor, but that's one of the first things that gets changed out when you upgrade, so it might not matter that much. Externally, the fit and finish on the SRC is just a bit nicer, and it includes rail covers. It's the little things that add up to the $30 price difference.

 

While we're on the subject, notice how the JG handguard is significantly larger than the SRC's? Airsoft guns have to carry their batteries somewhere, and traditionally, this has been in the stock. On a fixed stock rifle, this isn't a problem because there's usually lots of room inside the stock for a battery. On sliding stock guns, this is a little trickier, since you have to account for moving wires and the simple fact that most adjustable stocks just don't have any room to stick a battery into. In this case, you either have to use a SOPMOD style stock (the bulgy looking things on the side is where the battery goes), or you have to put the battery up in the handguard. Putting the battery up in the handguard, however, means you have to make it kinda bulgy to accommodate a battery, hence the very different ascetic of the two guns.

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I looked at a couple of those modifications in that thread you were talking about, but they seem pretty complicated and I honestly would have no idea which one to even do. I think it'd be best if I get one that's pretty good out of the box, because I don't think I'll tweak it, at least not for a while.

 

If you want to get a gun that's pretty good out of the box, none of those should be your option.

 

Look for a King Arms.

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One big thing is that the SRC carries the battery in the stock as opposed to the JG, which carries it in the handguard. This means the SRC will have better weight balance and not be as front heavy as the JG. Internally, they are pretty comparable, except the SRC has a better motor, but that's one of the first things that gets changed out when you upgrade, so it might not matter that much. Externally, the fit and finish on the SRC is just a bit nicer, and it includes rail covers. It's the little things that add up to the $30 price difference.

 

While we're on the subject, notice how the JG handguard is significantly larger than the SRC's? Airsoft guns have to carry their batteries somewhere, and traditionally, this has been in the stock. On a fixed stock rifle, this isn't a problem because there's usually lots of room inside the stock for a battery. On sliding stock guns, this is a little trickier, since you have to account for moving wires and the simple fact that most adjustable stocks just don't have any room to stick a battery into. In this case, you either have to use a SOPMOD style stock (the bulgy looking things on the side is where the battery goes), or you have to put the battery up in the handguard. Putting the battery up in the handguard, however, means you have to make it kinda bulgy to accommodate a battery, hence the very different ascetic of the two guns.

Alright, it seems like I'm not going to buy the JG, I think the battery in the handle would be annoying, and I looked at a lot of reviews and they complained about that. But, my Dad said I might be able to splurge, so if you could tell me the pros and cons of the more expensive one you listed (the tan one), compared to the SRC, I would appreciate that greatly. And also, EDI recommended a King Arms, what do you think of those? Thanks.

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Alright, it seems like I'm not going to buy the JG, I think the battery in the handle would be annoying, and I looked at a lot of reviews and they complained about that. But, my Dad said I might be able to splurge, so if you could tell me the pros and cons of the more expensive one you listed (the tan one), compared to the SRC, I would appreciate that greatly. And also, EDI recommended a King Arms, what do you think of those? Thanks.

 

I think they are way out of your initial price range. ;) They're nice guns, but you're paying extra for the Colt trademarks, so unless you're willing to spend $300-$400 there are better choices.

 

The difference between the JG and G&G is that the G&G body is made out of metal as opposed to plastic. Here's the same gun, but with a rail; again, the difference is that everything is metal vs plastic. One caveat is that the G&Gs don't come with a battery, so you should take that into account when figuring out how much you are going to spend.

 

 

 

 

Edited by chibajoe

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I think they are way out of your initial price range. ;) They're nice guns, but you're paying extra for the Colt trademarks, so unless you're willing to spend $300-$400 there are better choices.

 

The difference between the JG and G&G is that the G&G body is made out of metal as opposed to plastic. Here's the same gun, but with a rail; again, the difference is that everything is metal vs plastic. One caveat is that the G&Gs don't come with a battery, so you should take that into account when figuring out how much you are going to spend.

If I bought the cheaper G&G (the one without the rail system), and I decided I wanted to add a rail, could I do that, and if I could, how much would it cost? It looks like I could snap off the handle and replace it, but I'm not really sure. Thanks.

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The G&Gs are straight flat tops, they don't come with a carry handle. The beauty of the AR platform is that it's like LEGOs: you can pretty much add and remove just about everything. How much it costs to add a rail is pretty much going to depend on how much you want to spend, but just like with the gun, you will get what you pay for.

 

 

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Just because it's metal doesn't mean crap.....

 

Metal lacks one huge thing that plastic has, flexibility....

Drop the gun and see what happens.

 

Both JG and G&G are crap without any work done.

G&G needs new piston, gears and motor on top of tuning/basic mods while the JG only needs tuning/basic mods.

 

Brand new full metal King Arms M4 can be easily purchased for $200 or less.

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Just because it's metal doesn't mean crap.....

 

Metal lacks one huge thing that plastic has, flexibility....

Drop the gun and see what happens.

 

Both JG and G&G are crap without any work done.

G&G needs new piston, gears and motor on top of tuning/basic mods while the JG only needs tuning/basic mods.

 

Brand new full metal King Arms M4 can be easily purchased for $200 or less.

 

At the low end, all manufacturers make compromises; if a company has official trademarks on their gun, then they have to make additional compromises to meet a particular price point. King Arms is no different.

 

I've pulled apart dozens of guns, and what I've found is that, for the most part, none of them really needed anything: if the owners had just left them alone, they would have been fine. Instead, people buy a $200 gun and expect it to shoot 500fps/40rps, be accurate and be sturdy enough to bash in doors and buttstroke opponents. When it doesn't do that, they take it apart and inevitably screw something up, and then they come on here and complain that the gun is crap. :rolleyes:

 

Seriously, in that price range, about the best thing a person can do is get a good 9.6v (or 2S LiPo) battery, and maybe a good motor, and leave the rest of the gun well enough alone. Keep the barrel clean, the piston o-ring lubed, and you will outgrow the gun before it stops working.

Edited by chibajoe

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At the low end, all manufacturers make compromises; if a company has official trademarks on their gun, then they have to make additional compromises to meet a particular price point. King Arms is no different.

 

I've pulled apart dozens of guns, and what I've found is that, for the most part, none of them really needed anything: if the owners had just left them alone, they would have been fine. Instead, people buy a $200 gun and expect it to shoot 500fps/40rps, be accurate and be sturdy enough to bash in doors and buttstroke opponents. When it doesn't do that, they take it apart and inevitably screw something up, and then they come on here and complain that the gun is crap. :rolleyes:

 

Seriously, in that price range, about the best thing a person can do is get a good 9.6v (or 2S LiPo) battery, and maybe a good motor, and leave the rest of the gun well enough alone. Keep the barrel clean, the piston o-ring lubed, and you will outgrow the gun before it stops working.

 

Youngster, go figure it out then come back.

Let me know when you figure out who OEM the internals for KA.

 

On top of the fact that list was within his price range.

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Youngster, go figure it out then come back.

Let me know when you figure out who OEM the internals for KA.

 

On top of the fact that list was within his price range.

 

You mean the rumor that KAs are rebranded SHS gears? You mean the same SHS bevel gears that were breaking teeth a while back? :rolleyes:

 

I've pulled SHS sector gears out of the box that had to have the allens holding the sector gear together retightened: that was a real boost for my confidence in SHS quality control (to say nothing about the concept of a two piece sector gear).

 

You want to show me some proof that that the $150 KA bare bones M4 that they're selling for $200 because it has Colt trades on it has better internals than someone else's non-trades $200 gun, then fine, I'll concede my point. Until then, I'll stand by my statement.

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You mean the rumor that KAs are rebranded SHS gears? You mean the same SHS bevel gears that were breaking teeth a while back? :rolleyes:

 

I've pulled SHS sector gears out of the box that had to have the allens holding the sector gear together retightened: that was a real boost for my confidence in SHS quality control (to say nothing about the concept of a two piece sector gear).

 

You want to show me some proof that that the $150 KA bare bones M4 that they're selling for $200 because it has Colt trades on it has better internals than someone else's non-trades $200 gun, then fine, I'll concede my point. Until then, I'll stand by my statement.

 

The FACT is that you didn't read his post.

"I think it'd be best if I get one that's pretty good out of the box"

 

Please tell me how well does JG work OOTB on top of how their pot metal is ideal for the externals.

 

G&G is known to have sub-par internals.

 

Unless he wants to save more for a Lonex, King Arms is the option for him.

 

 

Stand by your statement all you like, but at least read the OP's post.

Otherwise don't even post in his thread.

Edited by EDI 1st

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I don't really know who to trust. It seems sense that King Arms would deliver less value because of the Colt trademark, but I'm not really sure. Is there any way we could compare a KA and a G&G directly?

Edit: And just to make it clear, EDI, you're reccomending I get of these, right? http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=7783 Visually, I like this one more, because it's black as opposed to tan, but what really matters is on the inside, and I can't really tell which has the better gearbox and internals and such.

Edited by TammyofJam

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I don't really know who to trust. It seems sense that King Arms would deliver less value because of the Colt trademark, but I'm not really sure. Is there any way we could compare a KA and a G&G directly?

Edit: And just to make it clear, EDI, you're reccomending I get of these, right? http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=7783

 

Like everything else, advice on the internet is worth exactly what you paid for it. :a-wink:

 

There are plenty of videos and info on the web about both companies, so you could always check them out and come to your own conclusions. :tongue:

Edited by chibajoe

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I don't really know who to trust. It seems sense that King Arms would deliver less value because of the Colt trademark, but I'm not really sure. Is there any way we could compare a KA and a G&G directly?

Edit: And just to make it clear, EDI, you're reccomending I get of these, right? http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=7783 Visually, I like this one more, because it's black as opposed to tan, but what really matters is on the inside, and I can't really tell which has the better gearbox and internals and such.

 

Trust a guy who has won two build-offs on top of a bunch of other expensive builds.

Or

Trust a guy who hasn't proven anything.

 

Evike has the same thing for $20 less.

 

The gear box is by far one of the best stock GB along with Lonex.

And not just the parts are nice, like Lonex, it's properly shimmed which JG has never achieve that.

Proper shimming will increase RPS and efficiency of the system.

 

 

It's not always you get what you pay for.

SHS Piston for SR-25 is only $10~$15, yet, it's the BEST 19 teeth piston in the market.

Systema, G&P, G&G, Matrix Aluminum, Deep Fire are all more expensive and all worse than the SHS,

 

 

Advice on the internet is not always what you pay for either.

I can tell you that KWA by far has one of the largest group of fanboys, yet they are absolute :pain: in any real tech's eyes.

FACT is, the general public has close to zero actual knowledge.

 

The only advantage that you can get from going with JG is probability of getting the M42 motor.

However that's if you are lucky.

Then, you have to deal with the :pain: pot metal externals and horrible tuning and cheap Chinese grease.

Don't forget about the :pain: hop-up.

 

If you go with the King Arms, you get a GB that's just as nice except it is properly shimmed and greased and better wiring.

King Arms also have one of the best externals in the market for both the metal and polymer component.

 

FACT is, King Arms wins on both the inside and the outside.

Edited by EDI 1st

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They are all good brands, but I'd get the King Arms if you can afford it. It's not just "paying for the trades", it's buying a nice gun that happens to be trademarked.

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Alright, it ill be getting a king arms, although im not sure if I should buy the full metal version or the cheaper plastic one. EDI you sais earpier that meyal guns werent as flexable, can you give a bit more info on that please? Thanks for alll the help, and sorry for all the spelling errors, im sending this from my phone.

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Alright, it ill be getting a king arms, although im not sure if I should buy the full metal version or the cheaper plastic one. EDI you sais earpier that meyal guns werent as flexable, can you give a bit more info on that please? Thanks for alll the help, and sorry for all the spelling errors, im sending this from my phone.

 

Turn your auto-correct on -___-

 

Plastic vs metal, well...it's really complex....

Structural Engineering, it's a whole field on itself.

 

But avoid two things, cheap metal (pot metal) or cheap plastic (Toy plastic)

 

Metal externals feel nice and proper, on top of the fact that King Arms doesn't use :pain: metal like JG on their external.

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Turn your auto-correct on -___-

 

Plastic vs metal, well...it's really complex....

Structural Engineering, it's a whole field on itself.

 

But avoid two things, cheap metal (pot metal) or cheap plastic (Toy plastic)

 

Metal externals feel nice and proper, on top of the fact that King Arms doesn't use :pain: metal like JG on their external.

Alright. I think I'll get the metal one, and sorry ghis phone doesnt have auto correct, its an old baseline android.

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I think you should get the king arms M4.I prefer polymer over metal because its light weight so it's easier to Carrie it around and your not going to get tired quikly. if your going $150 for your budget I suggest the JG M4 echanced version.go check it out on airsoftgi.

 

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Just to add a bit regarding KA.

Full metal rifles have metal hop up units and working bolt catch. Gearbox internalls are the same for all of them. I personally own a nylon fibre version with a plastic hop up and non-working bolt catch and it's working just fine on cheap 11.1v 15c <AT> 21rps. External quality is simply unmatched by any other aeg in this price range (it's on par with stuff like vfc and g&p).

However... this gun will get outperformed on range, accuracy and power by a a lot of other stock guns. I am talking from what I've seen on my field. A crap A&K m4 cqb with 30k rounds trough it is more accurate and has noticable more range. Same goes for cyma ak-47 cm-042a. Maybe it's just mine gun that's acting up, but that's my experience so far. KA gearboxes come with a non-ported cylinder which is an overkill for a 363mm m4 barrel. Replacing it with a ported one for 10$ will most likely solve power (and range with it) issues.

 

I think despite all this, it is still the gun to buy, externals are just too good to overlook and you can always upgrade internalls for cheap money.

Edited by Juzh

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Just to add a bit regarding KA.

Full metal rifles have metal hop up units and working bolt catch. Gearbox internalls are the same for all of them. I personally own a nylon fibre version with a plastic hop up and non-working bolt catch and it's working just fine on cheap 11.1v 15c <AT> 21rps. External quality is simply unmatched by any other aeg in this price range (it's on par with stuff like vfc and g&p).

However... this gun will get outperformed on range, accuracy and power by a a lot of other stock guns. I am talking from what I've seen on my field. A crap A&K m4 cqb with 30k rounds trough it is more accurate and has noticable more range. Same goes for cyma ak-47 cm-042a. Maybe it's just mine gun that's acting up, but that's my experience so far. KA gearboxes come with a non-ported cylinder which is an overkill for a 363mm m4 barrel. Replacing it with a ported one for 10$ will most likely solve power (and range with it) issues.

 

I think despite all this, it is still the gun to buy, externals are just too good to overlook and you can always upgrade internalls for cheap money.

That sounds good, I don't need to have a gun that shoots like a laser for backyard play, and I MIGHT upgrade in a year or two once I get into the sport more. I decided to purchase the gun, cost me 156$ because of a sale on Evike, so it was within my budget, (well only 6$ off). Thanks everyone who helped me, I really appreciate it, and I will be sure to come back to this site again if I need more help or info.

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High end brands such as Ares and Classic army have streamlined versions of their more expensive guns. Although they are made out of plastic, they generally are quite decent guns that work when you want them to. Plus, you will have the manufacturer's guarantee. They may be close to exceeding out of your budget, but they are well worth the invesment. sometimes buying a gun from a chinese brand is like flipping a coin: you either get a good gun or a gun that fails completely. I have used a couple of guns from JG, galaxy, and Dboys. some of them work brilliantly, but some fail pretty badly, or they misfeed very frequently.

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