Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
jgaffney86

My First Post

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone (: . This is my first post and I'm very happy to be here and that I have found this forum. According to my searches. This is a pretty top much forum for American based airsoft. I have been a speedball paintball player for about 7 years on and off. However, after college I moved to PA in Williamsport (little league world series area) and paintball is pretty dead here among my friends. So I tried airsoft finally last weekend and I really enjoyed it! Being it cheaper to play for a day is a big plus too :P. So I decided to get into it. Side note, I sold my paintball stuff about 3 years ago too :P. Anyway, I have to alot of research and there is alot to grasp here. I have done a ton of research on goggles and face protection since I believe thats the most important thing. I have purchased goggles, mesh goggles, and a half face mask and some camo to get my started. Now Im moving on to my vest and my gun. I have been reading articles on guns. There is alot for me to learn yet. I'm hoping I can get some help here. So far I see that echo 1 classic army and GNG are good brand to stick with for the 100-200 range. I have a couple question that I can't seem to find on articles or searches. So to get this thread started....here we go

 

Also, for now, im looking into the M4 model line...

 

1) When you go from 100 to 200 dollar range are most of the guns the same? Are they just more upgraded than the cheaper? or are there diff gear boxes ect? Or are they just there own gun? little lost in thought here....lol

 

2) I read a wiki how article about buying your first gun, they basically said in this one step that 150 to 200 was sort of a wait. Do you guys find this to be true?

 

3) If the gun is smaller does that mean that it will shoot shorter and lower fps? Will accuracy be an issue?

 

4) For the model lines like the M4, does the model just give how the gun looks? or do certain model have certain configurations? example...like m4 only use version 2 and 3 gear boxes?

 

5) Not quote a question but, I plan on playing in the woods most of the time with friends and sometimes going to a place where they have CQB, I would like a gun thats isnt too long so I can maneuver it well. my budget is 100-200 bucks for a gun. I would also like good FPS and accuracy. if I have to sacrifice this a little but for a smaller gun thats okay. But not too much though.

 

Sorry if this is all over the place. Just alot to take in for me with airsoft since im so use to paintball. I apologize if anything is a repost here.

 

THANKS AGAIN!!! (: (:

 

:a-wink:

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest alberty

1. Under $100 is cheap "LPEGs" and springers, nothing compared to good quality high grade or "regular" grade stuff. Compare a cheap plastic springer paintball marker at a sporting goods store versus a tournament marker. The under $100 stuff usually have proprietary parts and magazines, unable to be upgraded or repaired.

 

3. Not necessarily. For an AEG the FPS is mostly dependent on what spring is installed in there. Additionally, FPS is not the #1 factor of effective range, the quality of your gun's hop-up action has the most influence. For example, a stock Tokyo Marui AEG shoots about 280-300 FPS with 0.20g BBs, but has excellent hop-up action that has better effective range than a cheap Chinese-made M4 shooting 400 FPS.

 

4. Most AEGs use a certain gearbox type. The de facto standards for an M4 model is a Version 2 gearbox. On the other way around, the base Version 2 gearbox is also used in MP5 (but not MP5K) and G3 as some examples. A Version 3 gearbox may be an AK-47, AUG, MP5K...

 

5. Try looking the pinned topic in this section for a few pointers for getting your questions answered.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alberty answered mostly all your questions. You could run a G&P Stubby M4 in the woods if you wanted, it all depends on Hop-Up. FPS just determines how fast it gets to the target(faster to the target, more it hurts, why 450 FPS isn't suited for CQB).

 

For an M4 in that budget, look at G&G and King Arms. I think KA has short M4s, not sure. Check both and find a model you'd like.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alberty and Coyote pretty much summed it up. If you're not fully stuck on an M4, maybe look into the JG G36 line(I'm a little bit partial. :a-grin: ). I've owned 4, 2 "c" variants, a "k", and a standard. The "c" is the shortest performs great in both CQB and Field straight out of the box. Not to mention it's not bulky and the polymer body stands up to a lot of beating. The thing about these G36s is they're harder to find online due to crackdowns on H&K trademarked guns. I've ended up purchasing 3 of mine off of Craigslist and got them for under $90 each gently used, which is actually below your price range. It leaves you room for other accessories.

 

Best of luck with whatever you get!

 

PP

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone with your reply. Based on what I have read and doing some searching....I am looking into the Combat Machine M4 Raider (G&G). I like the look of it. The stock seems to slide back and forth for good adjustment length. And I do believe the barrel is 14? This is a good length for me I feel. Not too long or not too short. Couple questions on this.

 

1) Could I change the barrel to a ten inch for CQB with this gun if I wanted? A shorter barrel would effect range and accuracy right?

 

2) Is the polymer body built well? Will it break? I don't mind it not being metal. Just lighter for me.

 

3) Is it a pretty upgradable in the long run and if I wanted to...can I even buy a metal body and replace to polymer? (notplanning on doing so just want to know there is and option for it.)

 

4) Should I go with this battery package? Or get a better battery and a smart charger?

 

5) All around is this a good reliable accurate gun?

 

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=10282

Edited by jgaffney86

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is a pretty good gun all around, very good for the price.

 

To answer your questions, a shorter barrel will not effect accuracy too awful much, remember there is an inner barrel and that's what makes the difference. At 14", it is short enough for CQB, I wouldn't bother going ten inches. If you want to, remember you would need to chance the outer AND inner barrel to fit.

 

The plastic body is nice, it won't break on you and it doesn't feel cheap.

 

It is very upgradable(is this even a word?) and you can change between metal body if you'd like, just remember to be careful when taking it apart.

 

Might as well get the battery, buy a smart charger though, they help with keep the battery from overcharging. Later you can get a better battery if you wish(it's a good idea to get a better battery after a while).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest alberty
Thanks everyone with your reply. Based on what I have read and doing some searching....I am looking into the Combat Machine M4 Raider (G&G). I like the look of it. The stock seems to slide back and forth for good adjustment length. And I do believe the barrel is 14? This is a good length for me I feel. Not too long or not too short. Couple questions on this.

 

1) Could I change the barrel to a ten inch for CQB with this gun if I wanted? A shorter barrel would effect range and accuracy right?

 

2) Is the polymer body built well? Will it break? I don't mind it not being metal. Just lighter for me.

 

3) Is it a pretty upgradable in the long run and if I wanted to...can I even buy a metal body and replace to polymer? (notplanning on doing so just want to know there is and option for it.)

 

4) Should I go with this battery package? Or get a better battery and a smart charger?

 

5) All around is this a good reliable accurate gun?

 

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=10282

 

The G&G Combat Machine M4s have been the go-to suggestion for a long time. However, if you're looking for something else, in the same price range are some King Arms M4s. Those are totally TM-spec so later you could switch from their plastic bodies to metal receivers, and the internals are pretty fine. Although I have liked G&G Combat Machine and used many blowback M4s in the past, I personally find that the receivers and gearbox shells are not 1:1 TM-spec. That's only an issue for replacing the body itself. You can still change the front end, stock, pistol grip, etc...freely.

 

Honestly the polymer body would be fine to keep though, and it's one of the selling points of a G&G. Lightweight, cheap, and durable, good alternative to heavy, weak metal. Good plastic is a ton better than cheap metal.

 

1. You can change the outer barrel and inner barrel by buying a new one and swapping it in. That's part of the modularity of an M4. No, a slightly shorter barrel will not drastically decrease your range and accuracy. As I said earlier, hop-up action has the most influence on a BB. You could take an excellent-hopping MP5K and outrange a poorly-hopped M14.

 

2. Yes, one of G&G's selling points.

 

3. Yes, the internals are compatible with standard V2/M4 type upgrade parts. Not the body I think.

 

4. The battery package includes some battery and a basic smart charger. That's alright. Some people will recommend you get a better multifunction charger but it's okay for a starter.

 

5. It's alright overall.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, awesome thanks for all the help.

 

After further looking and reading. I'm going to go with the M4 raider. I wanted to also get another high capacity magazine with it. Does it really matter what I get? Also...how long will 1600 MaH last me? What is also the difference between RIS and RAS? Amazon has this gun but it says RAS and airsoft GI says RIS?

Edited by jgaffney86

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest alberty
And don't get a hi-capacity magazine, believe me, winding it up every 20 shots will get annoying, just get a few, or even just 1, 120 - 180 mid cap magazines.

 

You're not using your hi-cap magazines correctly, or yours are broken or the spring is worn down. I could fully wind a 300-round M4 hi-cap magazine before a game, and the spring tension feeds almost all 300, no additional winding required as the tension keeps up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest alberty
What I ment was do all high caps have tyhe tendancy to feet a ton of bbbs when you wind it fully? I thought it was around 30 or 60 or so....

 

Man I have no idea where you're hearing that from. Again I've used plenty of M4 hi-caps and when working I get almost all 300 rounds fed in a game with a single wind. Now if I were to sit there and dump it on full-auto at like 20 RPS, sure maybe it will be feeding much less than 300, but by no means 30 or 60. 30 or 60 sounds like someone only winded the wheel for 10 seconds and then stopped.

 

Like a wind-up toy car or music box, you're supposed to wind it all the way until it's at full tension for maximum duration. Yes it will take like a minute, but I do this before the game starts. Consider that mid-caps take time to load too...

 

The hi-caps for various models of guns vary a bit, but generally I find that one full wind from a standard M4, AK, AUG, or G36 hi-cap gives me about 300 rounds not at a high-speed full-auto dump. For an MP5, the ratio of wind-vs-quantity is lower because the internals are smaller so there's a smaller spring.

 

Choose what you prefer. There's always a debate of hi-cap versus mid-cap magazines in airsoft. Hi-caps hold a large amount of BBs and are easy to operate but make a rattling noise (although other noises should mask that out). Mid-caps don't hold as much and need to be "Manually" loaded with a speedloader tool but in return make no rattling noise.

Edited by alberty

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Man I have no idea where you're hearing that from. Again I've used plenty of M4 hi-caps and when working I get almost all 300 rounds fed in a game with a single wind. Now if I were to sit there and dump it on full-auto at like 20 RPS, sure maybe it will be feeding much less than 300, but by no means 30 or 60. 30 or 60 sounds like someone only winded the wheel for 10 seconds and then stopped.

 

Like a wind-up toy car or music box, you're supposed to wind it all the way until it's at full tension for maximum duration. Yes it will take like a minute, but I do this before the game starts. Consider that mid-caps take time to load too...

 

The hi-caps for various models of guns vary a bit, but generally I find that one full wind from a standard M4, AK, AUG, or G36 hi-cap gives me about 300 rounds not at a high-speed full-auto dump. For an MP5, the ratio of wind-vs-quantity is lower because the internals are smaller so there's a smaller spring.

 

Choose what you prefer. There's always a debate of hi-cap versus mid-cap magazines in airsoft. Hi-caps hold a large amount of BBs and are easy to operate but make a rattling noise (although other noises should mask that out). Mid-caps don't hold as much and need to be "Manually" loaded with a speedloader tool but in return make no rattling noise.

 

 

Yeah, I totally believe you lol. Perhaps my friends are just miss informed. I shall try this when I recieve my high cap. I got a free D Boyz one with my Raider M4 that I just order. It was free and thats what my funds alowed me to handle at this point in time. I also wanted to get a small tool set to work on my gun. What would be your reccomendation? I would like to have o-rings (if I need them) and such handy too and I beleive the gun comes with oil. I'm guessing Ill atleast neet maybe a metric and US Alen key set and a set of screw driver....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest alberty

For any airsoft AEG, you should definitely have at the minimum:

 

- set of metric hex keys

- maybe, set of US hex keys

- screw driver set (small kind, aka "Jewelers" or "Electronics)

- regular screw drivers (flathead, Phillips/cross, both long & regular lengths)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
For any airsoft AEG, you should definitely have at the minimum:

 

- set of metric hex keys

- maybe, set of US hex keys

- screw driver set (small kind, aka "Jewelers" or "Electronics)

- regular screw drivers (flathead, Phillips/cross, both long & regular lengths)

 

Also pliers. And a hammer. Trust me. Sometimes there will be a pin that won't come out, and you'll resort to hammering the thing.

 

And no, it usually doesn't break your gun.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...