Jump to content
npswenson

7.4v Specific pick

Recommended Posts

So yesterday I picked up a G&G CQB M4. I don't like voiding warranties, so I left the Tamiyas. When it expires, deans are coming. But in til then, I need to get a Tamiya 7.4v, but I'm not sure of amperage. If I went to around 2000mah, is 15c a good discharge? I used a 20c in my other M4 and it is having severe carbon buildup. I prefer Hobbyking if it matters.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been a long time lurker on this forum and Im gunna get torn apart for this but there is one myth that seems to only be a problem in the airsoft world, and that is milliamp hours = more wattage. This is not true and although I have a great write up on this I want to briefly try and explain why this is. Milliamp hours are only a measurement of how much energy the pack will give off at 1c for one hour. C rating is only how much current draw or amp draw or discharge, that a pack CAN SAFELY HANDLE, it absolutely does not have anything to do with creating more power output from the motor. In other words too small of a pack will make the pack die sooner and be hotter when it is finished and that is all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I have been a long time lurker on this forum and Im gunna get torn apart for this but there is one myth that seems to only be a problem in the airsoft world, and that is milliamp hours = more wattage. This is not true and although I have a great write up on this I want to briefly try and explain why this is. Milliamp hours are only a measurement of how much energy the pack will give off at 1c for one hour. C rating is only how much current draw or amp draw or discharge, that a pack CAN SAFELY HANDLE, it absolutely does not have anything to do with creating more power output from the motor. In other words too small of a pack will make the pack die sooner and be hotter when it is finished and that is all.

 

 

The max amperage is calculated by multiplying the C rating by the amperage capacity of the pack. A 2000 mAh pack at 10c = 20 amp draw. 2*10=20.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't think he was questioning what MAH does. Most people know that MAH equates to how many shots you can get out of your gun, in otherwords, capacity.

 

Porker, if you plan to order from hobbyking, your only option is the airsoft specific batteries. Those are the only ones with Tamiya connectors. The rest are connectors more commonly used in RC. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/_..._Batteries.html

 

What configuration do you need? If configuration isn't a problem, the 1800mah 25C pack would be my choice: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/_...RSOFT_Pack.html

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I don't think he was questioning what MAH does. Most people know that MAH equates to how many shots you can get out of your gun, in otherwords, capacity.

 

Porker, if you plan to order from hobbyking, your only option is the airsoft specific batteries. Those are the only ones with Tamiya connectors. The rest are connectors more commonly used in RC. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/_..._Batteries.html

 

What configuration do you need? If configuration isn't a problem, the 1800mah 25C pack would be my choice: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/_...RSOFT_Pack.html

 

Thanks for understanding. I have a 1800mah wired to deans, but I don't want to void my warranty and add deans to the new gun. I was told by theguy up at the shop I bought it from that 20c will burn out my contacts . I believed it because my other m4 has very, very bad corrosion, presumably from the Lipo. So he recommended a 15c. Thoughts?

Edited by Porker

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why not install a MOSFET after the warranty is up? I believe in running a bigger battery than necessary when using lipos. That way you don't stress them and you get the most out of your battery and gun. Warranties are usually what? 30-60 days at best? If you play once a weekend, that is 4-8 times. I wouldn't consider that long enough to cause any serious damage with the 1800mah 25c pack. Then once the warranty is up, you just have to clean off the trigger contacts and motor commutator, and install a MOSFET. Seems a little pointless to buy a weak/smaller battery for just that amount of time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Why not install a MOSFET after the warranty is up? I believe in running a bigger battery than necessary when using lipos. That way you don't stress them and you get the most out of your battery and gun. Warranties are usually what? 30-60 days at best? If you play once a weekend, that is 4-8 times. I wouldn't consider that long enough to cause any serious damage with the 1800mah 25c pack. Then once the warranty is up, you just have to clean off the trigger contacts and motor commutator, and install a MOSFET. Seems a little pointless to buy a weak/smaller battery for just that amount of time.

 

I had originally planned on taking my first M4 up to Toledo to get some tech work done, but now that I have a new, fully functioning one, I might just take it up there, have him do the whole tune up and maybe upgrades, and install the MOSFET as well. And are you sure that's not going to cause a setback for me? I am a true semi-lover, so I will be putting on quite a bit of wear, right?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks for understanding. I have a 1800mah wired to deans, but I don't want to void my warranty and add deans to the new gun. I was told by theguy up at the shop I bought it from that 20c will burn out my contacts . I believed it because my other m4 has very, very bad corrosion, presumably from the Lipo. So he recommended a 15c. Thoughts?

 

 

I would not listen to this guy anymore...C has nothing to do with contact build up. You can get contact build up on cheap alloy connectors...which G&G has been using a lot of lately...

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I would not listen to this guy anymore...C has nothing to do with contact build up. You can get contact build up on cheap alloy connectors...which G&G has been using a lot of lately...

 

I thought that the discharge x capacity was the amperage, and that's what kills a battery? Therefore, he is correct in a sense, but the voltage is a big part as well, so he is wrong there, correct?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I thought that the discharge x capacity was the amperage, and that's what kills a battery? Therefore, he is correct in a sense, but the voltage is a big part as well, so he is wrong there, correct?

 

No.

 

Discharge capability in Amps is C x mah.

 

His statement only has a small fraction of the truth in it. These lack of details is really bugging the poo out of me today.

 

Voltage is say 8.3V on a 2S pack. 1800c at 20c is 36A Discharge capability.

 

36A has absolutely nothing to do with causing carbon build up on contacts. Its the voltage and the "little" spark that will jump from your trolley to the two blades. This is why some people like me use dielectric grease on the contacts in rebuilds. Use HV dielec grease not high amp dielectric grease.

 

In your case let's say voltage is 8.3V...not high at all. But, if your carboning up...it means the ally is very cheap. Because if your contacts were say made of a good copper alloy or gold alloy....you would not have any build up. But, that alloy is far to expensive to put inside an AEG.

 

Some AEG wire kits have copper coated contacts. Once that wears off...it carbonizes quickly.

Edited by Guges Mk3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
No.

 

Discharge capability in Amps is C x mah.

 

His statement only has a small fraction of the truth in it. These lack of details is really bugging the poo out of me today.

 

Voltage is say 8.3V on a 2S pack. 1800c at 20c is 36A Discharge capability.

 

36A has absolutely nothing to do with causing carbon build up on contacts. Its the voltage and the "little" spark that will jump from your trolley to the two blades. This is why some people like me use dielectric grease on the contacts in rebuilds. Use HV dielec grease not high amp dielectric grease.

 

In your case let's say voltage is 8.3V...not high at all. But, if your carboning up...it means the ally is very cheap. Because if your contacts were say made of a good copper alloy or gold alloy....you would not have any build up. But, that alloy is far to expensive to put inside an AEG.

 

Some AEG wire kits have copper coated contacts. Once that wears off...it carbonizes quickly.

 

It was JG contacts, if that says much. They already had been built up before, and I had cleaned them off, as I thought I was just throwing in a FET, so I wouldn't have to deal with them much, but unfortunately that wasn't so.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...