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good beginner gun that won't break the budger

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Hi, guys. First off, apologies for the probably redundant post, I'm just new here and trying to get into airsoft and it's a bit overwhelming. I'm confident that I'l dig the sport, especially if I have locals to play with. I'd just like to be well-informed when I'm going in to this so that I don't make mistakes with my money. So I won't be expecting a 20-dollar gun but since I'm currently still an unemployed recent college-grad, I'd like to keep it on a fairly low budget, as well. I know I'll be buying more guns and styles of guns in the future, I just want my first one to be one I can continue to enjoy even after trying something a bit nicer (not some Taiwan crud meant to pull a few bucks off people not in-the-know).

 

And right now, I can't quite tell the difference between the $15 and the $500 ones except for guessing the 15-buck guns fall into the junk category. My range is preferably under 150 for the gun but preferably under 200 for all my starter equipment.

 

One thing that would be really awesome (and feel free to link me places or even to posts or to suggest search terms) is first-off, if you guys can let me know what brands/sites to look for and which ones to avoid and going along with that, which features to look for and to avoid in an airsoft and why.

 

As for what I wish to do... In the beginning, I just want to spend quite a while just having fun at it, shooting at targets or random things in the woods. I'd like something with a bit of accuracy, even possibly a sniper rifle-type although that might limit me. (feel free to suggest against if it's a bad idea for a starter gun)

 

If second-hand guns are a good way to do it, please let me know where a good place is to find these or if I should just avoid for now.

 

If anyone if from Jersey, by the way, I live by Morristown. If there are any local venues you could suggest, definitely let me know.

 

so tl;dr, which gun should I try to get from where and which things should I look for/avoid when purchasing?

 

also, first post! ... aaand I believe I :censored2: up on the title somehow. Oh well, it's a start.

 

edit: and another really big question. How expensive is the sport overall as someone who's fairly into it? Can it be thought of as relatively inexpensive once you get your gear, or is it something where there are regularly big costs (also how much to play on a field?) thanks. Oh, and automatic firing capabilities will not be something I really care about at all with this gun, so I'm cool with firing one at a time, even like bolt-action is no problem.

 

What do you guys think of this? some Dragunov I found on sale I'm of Russian heritage so that one really caught my eye =D It's a spring-action, although I have no clue if that's a bad thing or not.

Edited by deleted

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First off, what kind of gun are you looking for? In the $100-150 range, it mostly comes down to M4s and AKs.

 

For AKs, Dboys and Cyma are solid bets. Under $150, the Dboys will have the better external quality, while Cyma has a bit better internals. The Cyma guns with the same externals as the Dboys will be about $30 more on average.

 

Couple Dboys AK guns. http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/4740-dboys...-aeg-rifle.aspx

http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/2434-dboys...ding-stock.aspx

 

 

For M4s, you're looking toward JG and G&G. Both solid starter choices, with G&G being a bit higher quality, but also higher cost.

 

Carbine length G&G with a rail. Solid middleground between indoor and outdoor play. Rails for accesories. http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?...roducts_id=7284

 

Similar product from JG. Clone of the HK416, so it's a little bit taller, better for looking down sights with a mask on. Won't take Magpul P-mags, but if you like the standard M4 magazine that's not a problem. Also has a fixed stock, rather than adjustable. Your mileage may vary, but I found I can only handle an M4 easily with the stock fully extended. It's on blowout because they can't import them anymore, due to them being HK clones, and HK being litigious.

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?...roducts_id=3513

 

 

 

Also in your budget, though with slightly more expensive magazines, would be the G36. Nice gun, comfortable, my favorite iron sights on a weapon.

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?...oducts_id=10169

 

And finally, the MP5. Classic gun, most mags will hold fewer shots than most M4 mags, shorter barrel.

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?...oducts_id=16519

 

 

 

Oh, and sniper rifles are a bad idea for a beginner's gun. The guns tend to be inexpensive, but replacing innards is more expensive than an AEG, and you will be outgunned by anyone who manages to make it within 100 feet of you.

 

Also, besides Airsoft GI and Airsoft Megastore, you can check on Evike.com, Airsoft Station, and Airsplat. Most people strongly dislike Airsplat.

 

And when looking at a gun, anything under $110 tends to be kinda bad, unless it's a special. Like, on Evike right now there's this gun: http://www.evike.com/products/37499/ It's there because they're clearing them out, like with the JG recommended above. Classic Army probably sits somewhere between JG and G&G in quality, though they currently have a bit of a bad reputation because they used to be a lot better than they are now.

 

edit: Okay, apparently that particular CA gun is an example of one of their bad runs. Wobbly stocks, bad internals. But not all of their guns are horrible. Not all deals like that will be bad. Like, last week there was a Cyma AK down to $80 that was a really solid gun, normally sells at $140.

Edited by Jeranhound

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Guest alberty
What do you guys think of this? some Dragunov I found on sale I'm of Russian heritage so that one really caught my eye =D It's a spring-action, although I have no clue if that's a bad thing or not.

 

I don't recommend a spring-powered bolt-action SVD for a few reasons, but if you're fine with the good and bad sides, that's a good cheap SVD option just for the basic SVD feel. While it has its good points of using AEG springs, buckings, and inner barrels, pretty easy disassembly, and a cheap price for good quality externals...it gets painful constantly pull back that charging handle, and there's a lack of aftermarket parts. The charging handle on the SVD is very small and not ergonomics for constant pulling as compared to the charging handles of typical bolt-action rifles like the L96 and the VSR-10 (Remington 700) style.

 

However, the few aftermarket parts that do exist will help you such as a charging handle extension, aftermarket hop-up unit to fix consistency and feed issues, etc...

 

I personally recommend an AEG SVD, such as Real Sword, CYMA, A&K, King Arms, or Classic Army. They give the semi-automatic firing ability and you can do some standard AEG upgrades. This helps avoid potential issues of GBBR SVDs and gas-powered-bolt-action SVDs.

 

Overall for a beginner, I would highly recommend a high-end CYMA or DBoys AK series AEG instead, if you like the Russian stuff. Do some internal tuning and you get great performance and look for a good price. Upgrade/replacement parts for AEGs are much more common in stock and the infantry-level is better to start with instead of DM/marksman/sniper.

Edited by alberty

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Some excellent suggestions up there within your budget range, though I do suggest that you expand said budget if you can. $150 is pretty much barely above the line between the "junker" and "decent" rifle categories.

 

I'm going to second Alberty's no vote on the SVD. And the same goes for any other bolt action sniper you might run across. Not because they are bad guns, far from it, rifles like that have the potential to be some of the most powerful and effective rifles on the field. The problem there is with the word potential. Unless you spend a LOT of money upgrading it, all you have out of the box is a springer that will be easily outgunned by everything else on the field. It also takes a rather advanced skillset to use it effectively. All in all, it is not a good option for a budget limited beginner.

 

As for the question regarding the cost of this sport. It depends.

 

Generally speaking, an enthusiastic player with a solid loadout who takes care of it will see a significant upfront cost, but little in the way of cost to keep playing over time. Power source is just a little bit of electricity in the case of AEGs, your ammunition costs small fractions of a cent per round, especially if you buy in bulk, and maintenance is simple and cheap if you keep on top of it. How much it costs to play on a field varies, my local one costs $10 for the entire day, special multiday scenario events like Fulda Gap can cost around $50-100

 

On the other hand, junker guns or poorly maintained ones will constantly need to be repaired or replaced, which keeps ongoing costs high.

 

On the other end of the spectrum, someone who really gets into the sport is likely to rack up high costs between a small armory's worth of guns, constant upgrade work, uniforms for every situation, etc.

 

EDIT: One other option just occured to me. It is definitely not a precision weapon, but if (as you said earlier) you don't mind working with the slow rate of fire, there are pump action airsoft shotguns out there that offer excellent performance on the field and are well within your budget range.

Edited by Daishain

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Guest alberty
Some awesome replies so far... how do I give rep out? (or whatever you use to award helpful posts)

 

You don't need to, and I don't think there is a reputation system in place right now. Just your thanks to everyone is good enough for now I guess. If you have more questions, feel free to continue asking and posting.

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You don't need to, and I don't think there is a reputation system in place right now. Just your thanks to everyone is good enough for now I guess. If you have more questions, feel free to continue asking and posting.

Thanks to all who replied so far!

 

What do you guys recommend out of the non-AK's or one of the VFC CYMA clones of an AK model. Or should I go with one of the other ones? Thanks again!

 

Also, does fake wood look kinda silly, or not too bad?

Edited by deleted

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If you want the cyma, I'd say go for the CM040, in whichever barrel length you want. There's 4 version of it, they have 2 barrel lengths and 2 different folding stocks. The 048 has wood, but that pushes it out of the price range. Could also go for a CM045, which is short barreled, comes in at around $155 for the wood handgrip version, I believe. It's really just preference.

 

And most low end guns will have mixed reviews, especially those coming out of mainland China. There was a period a few years back where JG's G36s were showing up at houses and cracking within a few hours of use. They had a bad batch of ABS. It's one of the problems in Airsoft, things change over the years but the old info sticks around. It's why JG changed the names of most of their M4s last year to include (2013 version) on the end, so people might disregard old negative reviews.

 

The AKs are definitely a more solid choice, though, particularly the Cyma ones. There are certain guns that just are bad choices under a certain price point. Like, the reason I didn't bring up the UMP in my original example, Umarex got it made with a fixed bolt handle. Sure, the charging bolt does nothing on an AEG but reveal the hopup, but they shaved $1 off the cost to take away the fun of racking a charging handle .

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If 200.00 is your full kit price, keep in mind GOOD eye protection, a quality battery, and a smart charger should be something you should think about.

 

Welcome to the not so wonderful state of New Jersey airsofting... Your only options are really Godfather (The Airsoft Factory) and Stryker. Godfather has indoor and outdoor facilities. The place itself (CQB at least, thats where I go) is poorly maintained, not a great place to go. Theft is big there as well, unfortunately. I only go because its ~20 minutes away and the closest field if Im not willing to travel. People also cheat the chrono all the time, and its incredibly annoying, and management doesnt really care.

 

Stryker is down in Hackettstown.. A lot better, its a great place to go. If youre under 18, theres also an under 18 night to maybe try and get yourself in there. Have never been, so I don't know exactly how it is, but management is all around better. And they are renovating their space soon as well.

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If 200.00 is your full kit price, keep in mind GOOD eye protection, a quality battery, and a smart charger should be something you should think about.

 

Welcome to the not so wonderful state of New Jersey airsofting... Your only options are really Godfather (The Airsoft Factory) and Stryker. Godfather has indoor and outdoor facilities. The place itself (CQB at least, thats where I go) is poorly maintained, not a great place to go. Theft is big there as well, unfortunately. I only go because its ~20 minutes away and the closest field if Im not willing to travel. People also cheat the chrono all the time, and its incredibly annoying, and management doesnt really care.

 

Stryker is down in Hackettstown.. A lot better, its a great place to go. If youre under 18, theres also an under 18 night to maybe try and get yourself in there. Have never been, so I don't know exactly how it is, but management is all around better. And they are renovating their space soon as well.

I think I'm not multiquoting right but thanks a lot for warning me about the theft. I used to live right by Godfather (Watchung/Warren)

 

In response to Jeranhound, yes I'll look into the CYMA ones. My understanding so far is that these are a little better/more sturdy? I see some non-AK's that have a crazy amount of rails going around the barrel. How much of a big-deal are rails?

 

edit: and I am over 18. This is going to be my graduation gift to myself for finishing my undergrad at Rutgers.

 

double-edit: I believe I have good eye protection because somewhere, my father has an actual pair of airsoft goggles that he used at work when cutting stuff that could send shrapnel into your eyes. If not, then I'll be sure to have it before playing. Those airsoft goggles saved me on my first paintball hit which would have been right in my left eye at a high fps.

Edited by deleted

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You don't need rails, really. And AKs have their own sets you can get. The most handy one for an AK attaches to the scope mount on the side and puts the rail right over the dust cover. IT's nice, but keeps you from folding your stock unless you have an underfolding one. Up front you can put on different grips and such, but in my time holding an M4 I just found myself holding the magwell as a foregrip and ignoring the handguard entirely. Granted, short CQB M4 vs mid-length AK, so there's a weight difference there, but the handguard on an AK has functioned just fine for nigh on 70 years now.

 

That, and stuff like front flashlights aren't in your budget right now. You can always swap your handguard out at a later date, if you want to add forward rails.

 

And the Cymas are more consistent than the Dboys, on the internals. You put two perfect examples side by side, you won't be able to tell which is which. You're just a bit more likely to end up with a sub-par Dboys than a Cyma. The VFC-style guns are all made off of old VFC equipment that was bought when VFC was replacing it. Give or take the quality of the actual steel being used and the paint applied, the externals should match those $400 guns. So it's not like you're going to end up with a gun that falls apart in your hands, you just might get a slightly below spec piston, or a loose fitting screw somewhere in the Dboys. You pay more for the other guns for the consistency of the product.

 

 

 

edit: Oh, while I'm thinking about it, Memorial Day Weekend has sales going on on the various sites. So that'll help cram more into your budget.

Edited by Jeranhound

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You don't need rails, really. And AKs have their own sets you can get. The most handy one for an AK attaches to the scope mount on the side and puts the rail right over the dust cover. IT's nice, but keeps you from folding your stock unless you have an underfolding one. Up front you can put on different grips and such, but in my time holding an M4 I just found myself holding the magwell as a foregrip and ignoring the handguard entirely. Granted, short CQB M4 vs mid-length AK, so there's a weight difference there, but the handguard on an AK has functioned just fine for nigh on 70 years now.

 

That, and stuff like front flashlights aren't in your budget right now. You can always swap your handguard out at a later date, if you want to add forward rails.

 

And the Cymas are more consistent than the Dboys, on the internals. You put two perfect examples side by side, you won't be able to tell which is which. You're just a bit more likely to end up with a sub-par Dboys than a Cyma. The VFC-style guns are all made off of old VFC equipment that was bought when VFC was replacing it. Give or take the quality of the actual steel being used and the paint applied, the externals should match those $400 guns. So it's not like you're going to end up with a gun that falls apart in your hands, you just might get a slightly below spec piston, or a loose fitting screw somewhere in the Dboys. You pay more for the other guns for the consistency of the product.

 

 

 

edit: Oh, while I'm thinking about it, Memorial Day Weekend has sales going on on the various sites. So that'll help cram more into your budget.

Thanks, I'll keep an eye out for sales. The accuracy on these is listed at 100 feet for some reason while the accuracy on others is listed at a higher distance (180-200) Is that just something to disregard, or are these less accurate somehow?

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try an lancer tactical gun

 

 

Why the heck would he buy a lancer tactical when he has a budget of $150? Even If he had a $100 budget he could afford a JG basic M4 which is way better than the LT...

 

Suggest going for a G&G CM16 or JG "enhanced" M4.The battery and charger that both come with the JG is complete crap.Suggest going with a smart charger and a Elite 9.6v battery.

 

If you want a AK47 I suggest going with CYMA.Same story with the battery and charger.

 

 

Here is the links to the elite 9.6v battery and the elite smart charger.Only $8 for the smart charger opposed to the $20 tenergy smart charger.

 

http://www.eliteairsoftbatteries.com/produ...ttery-pack.aspx

 

http://www.eliteairsoftbatteries.com/produ...ad-charger.aspx

 

Altogether its going to be in the $200 budget.

 

hope this helps.

 

thanks,

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Why the heck would he buy a lancer tactical when he has a budget of $150? Even If he had a $100 budget he could afford a JG basic M4 which is way better than the LT...

 

Suggest going for a G&G CM16 or JG "enhanced" M4.The battery and charger that both come with the JG is complete crap.Suggest going with a smart charger and a Elite 9.6v battery.

 

If you want a AK47 I suggest going with CYMA.Same story with the battery and charger.

 

 

Here is the links to the elite 9.6v battery and the elite smart charger.Only $8 for the smart charger opposed to the $20 tenergy smart charger.

 

http://www.eliteairsoftbatteries.com/produ...ttery-pack.aspx

 

http://www.eliteairsoftbatteries.com/produ...ad-charger.aspx

 

Altogether its going to be in the $200 budget.

 

hope this helps.

 

thanks,

Yeah, I'll look into those. I'm fine with spending up to 200 if it makes a difference and hopefully those MDW sales can help me out. Thanks!

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Why the heck would he buy a lancer tactical when he has a budget of $150? Even If he had a $100 budget he could afford a JG basic M4 which is way better than the LT...

 

Suggest going for a G&G CM16 or JG "enhanced" M4.The battery and charger that both come with the JG is complete crap.Suggest going with a smart charger and a Elite 9.6v battery.

 

If you want a AK47 I suggest going with CYMA.Same story with the battery and charger.

 

Here is the links to the elite 9.6v battery and the elite smart charger.Only $8 for the smart charger opposed to the $20 tenergy smart charger.

 

http://www.eliteairsoftbatteries.com/produ...ttery-pack.aspx

 

http://www.eliteairsoftbatteries.com/produ...ad-charger.aspx

 

Altogether its going to be in the $200 budget.

 

hope this helps.

 

thanks,

By the JG "enhanced" M4, you mean the S-System, right? I see a higher range and muzzle velocity on the G&G than the JG but is there something more desirable in it? How would it/these compare to the AK's like http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/10111-430-...40d-vpower.aspx

 

And last question: is there a big improvement from type-2 and type-3 gearboxes?

Thanks

Edited by deleted

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By the JG "enhanced" M4, you mean the S-System, right? I see a higher range and muzzle velocity on the G&G than the JG but is there something more desirable in it? How would it/these compare to the AK's like http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/10111-430-...40d-vpower.aspx

 

And last question: is there a big improvement from type-2 and type-3 gearboxes?

Thanks

 

"Enhanced" have some slightly better parts and QC. The S-System is an option, but kind of a complicated choice.

 

The FPS on the JG will almost certainly be higher than G&G... JGs shoot 400-420 FPS, generally speaking, 330ish for G&G.

 

If you mean V2 or V3 gearbox, certain styles of guns only take that specific gearbox. V3 is supposedly slightly stronger by design.

 

If you mean the JG Version 3 gearbox lingo thats going around, thats just a marketing gimmick... Its a JG enhanced, nothing else.

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"Enhanced" have some slightly better parts and QC. The S-System is an option, but kind of a complicated choice.

 

The FPS on the JG will almost certainly be higher than G&G... JGs shoot 400-420 FPS, generally speaking, 330ish for G&G.

 

If you mean V2 or V3 gearbox, certain styles of guns only take that specific gearbox. V3 is supposedly slightly stronger by design.

 

If you mean the JG Version 3 gearbox lingo thats going around, thats just a marketing gimmick... Its a JG enhanced, nothing else.

I meant that the AK I linked listed it as a v3 gearbox which I wasn't seeing often. If it's nothing too special, then I won't really bother with the type 2 vs 3 decision and just get whichever. The JG seems really nice, though and I really dig the look of it, too. Long as it's around the same/not worse quality-wise, I might end up going with that and the battery suggested in the thread.

Edited by deleted

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Why the heck would he buy a lancer tactical when he has a budget of $150? Even If he had a $100 budget he could afford a JG basic M4 which is way better than the LT...

 

Suggest going for a G&G CM16 or JG "enhanced" M4.The battery and charger that both come with the JG is complete crap.Suggest going with a smart charger and a Elite 9.6v battery.

 

If you want a AK47 I suggest going with CYMA.Same story with the battery and charger.

 

 

Here is the links to the elite 9.6v battery and the elite smart charger.Only $8 for the smart charger opposed to the $20 tenergy smart charger.

 

http://www.eliteairsoftbatteries.com/produ...ttery-pack.aspx

 

http://www.eliteairsoftbatteries.com/produ...ad-charger.aspx

 

Altogether its going to be in the $200 budget.

 

hope this helps.

 

thanks,

Is this the 'enhanced' M4 you were referring to? http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?...roducts_id=3513 If so, I think I'll get it.

Edited by deleted

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Is this the 'enhanced' M4 you were referring to? http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?...roducts_id=3513 If so, I think I'll get it.

[/quote

 

 

No,here is the link to the one I'm talking about.

 

 

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?...roducts_id=3432

 

thanks,

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I see a 'higher-velocity' version of the G&G that's actually cheaper than the JG (it's a refurb) http://www.airsoftatlanta.com/product-p/c496.htm What do you guys think is a better quality gun? That, the JG, or one of the CYMA AK's? Probably going to get one of these choices very, very soon.

 

 

Yes,would suggest the CM over the JG the CYMA.

 

Also that's a pretty good deal.

 

Thanks,

Edited by airsoftisawesome45

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http://www.airsoftatlanta.com/product-p/c496.htm[/url] What do you guys think is a better quality gun? That, the JG, or one of the CYMA AK's? Probably going to get one of these choices very, very soon.

It is essentially the same thing as the standard CM16, just with a slightly stronger spring installed. Bear in mind that the higher velocity may be too much for some field FPS limits.

 

Frankly, I don't feel fully confident recommending any particular one as being clearly better than the others. Any of them could serve you quite well, or turn out to be a lemon.

 

I will say that I trust G&G more than the other two companies, and their combat machine is a staple for new players.

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It is essentially the same thing as the standard CM16, just with a slightly stronger spring installed. Bear in mind that the higher velocity may be too much for some field FPS limits.

 

Frankly, I don't feel fully confident recommending any particular one as being clearly better than the others. Any of them could serve you quite well, or turn out to be a lemon.

 

I will say that I trust G&G more than the other two companies, and their combat machine is a staple for new players.

 

I see. I think I'm going to go with the G&G, then. I think I'll go with the regular Combat Machine and if I want higher fps down the road, I'll just get a spring upgrade. I see they aren't extremely pricey. Any pros/cons for the rail system? (they sell a version with and a version without) The looks appeal to me and I can see how it's useful. I've heard it might make the gun a little more front-heavy but that's something I can get used to no problem, I think.

Edited by deleted

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Any pros/cons for the rail system? (they sell a version with and a version without) The looks appeal to me and I can see how it's useful. I've heard it might make the gun a little more front-heavy but that's something I can get used to no problem, I think.

You pretty much covered it, a little extra weight vs versatility in terms of externals.

 

the only other con to the rails is they are a little uncomfortable to hold if you don't get a grip of some kind. Of course, they also mean that you CAN get a proper grip, usually leading to better weapon control.

Edited by Daishain

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Most of the "High Velocity" is BS. Every one of the Combat Machines I have between a couple guys, they were all marked as high velocity, and only one was marginally higher at 365 FPS, compared to the 330 FPS they normally put out. THe only ones that really have the M120 installed are the "HT Full Metal" ones.

 

The rail system has no effect on weight in the case of teh CM. The plastic rails weight nothing. The weight difference, which is still marginal at best, will come from whether you pick the 14.5" or 10.5" barrel.

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Most of the "High Velocity" is BS. Every one of the Combat Machines I have between a couple guys, they were all marked as high velocity, and only one was marginally higher at 365 FPS, compared to the 330 FPS they normally put out. THe only ones that really have the M120 installed are the "HT Full Metal" ones.

 

The rail system has no effect on weight in the case of teh CM. The plastic rails weight nothing. The weight difference, which is still marginal at best, will come from whether you pick the 14.5" or 10.5" barrel.

Got it. Thanks, guys. ANy suggestions on which length? Will longer barrel be more accurate, or something?

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Got it. Thanks, guys. ANy suggestions on which length? Will longer barrel be more accurate, or something?

That is a much more complicated question than it seems to be at first.

 

A longer barrel can be more accurate, up to a point, but other factors associated with having a longer barrel may or may not drop your accuracy down again by just as much or more. This is particularly true with the brass barrels that come stock with these guns. Longer length with a poor quality barrel often just means more rough patches the airflow has to deal with on the way through.

 

My suggestion? Keep it short if you plan to leave it stock and/or will be using it in close quarters. Go for the long version if are fairly confidant that you will swap out for a higher quality inner barrel at some point in the future.

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Hey so an update, I went over the budget I had earlier a little. I saw that Evike was having a solid discount and I picked up this

http://www.evike.com/products/33234/

with a battery (I derped and got a dean plug), smart-charger, the adapter to fix the dean plug f-up (and to also get the speed-loader which I didn't think of when ordering), 2,000 BB's, a barrel-condom, and a speed-loader for about 245 counting the shipping.

 

Pretty decent discount but I'm not sure how smart my choice was, given that I just realized there's no rear sight. As in the iron-sight is just absent in the back so I'm gonna have to pick something up if I want to aim this thing. I guess I have no problem spending more but I'd definitely like suggestions on sights.

 

Also I know I can't change to a metal body but from online testimony and my experience so far, the plastic body still looks solid and I'm gonna try to make sure I don't drop the gun. If anything, the only real upgrade I might do at any point soon (besides getting a sight) would be a tight-bore barrel.

 

Any suggestions on what sight to get and where?

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I'd grab an m4/m16 carry handle. They tend to cost about the same as any other iron sight, and they give you a handle.

Thanks, those look fairly affordable. I think I'll try and pick one up at my local shop (godfather airsoft) and if that is more pricey than online, then I'll get it on the web. I didn't make a mistake getting this gun, right? (just wanna be sure/get some second opinions)

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Evike customs aren't the best guns, but it's not like it's any more likely to just fall apart than a normal G&G. Just don't try and push it too high on the FPS, G&G's pneumatic blowback gearboxes have a weakpoint up front, making them bad high speed conversions. Judging by the barrel length, I'm asusming you want something in the 350 range, so it's probably not going to affect you.

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Evike customs aren't the best guns, but it's not like it's any more likely to just fall apart than a normal G&G. Just don't try and push it too high on the FPS, G&G's pneumatic blowback gearboxes have a weakpoint up front, making them bad high speed conversions. Judging by the barrel length, I'm asusming you want something in the 350 range, so it's probably not going to affect you.

Based upon internet research, I think 350 will be fine for me. I don't think I'll be playing a lot of long-range and I think I might end up playing a bit indoors so I'm pretty sure I shouldn't go too high with it, anyway.

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Yeah, so I'm having an issue. I can't get the battery to fully fit in the stock and when I push the stock in, it just pushes the battery out. This is the battery. http://www.evike.com/products/24476/

Hmm, those should fit together. Have you taken a look inside the stock? Perhaps theres something that should not be there that is getting in the way.

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You bought the wrong battery. That pack only fits in certain crane stocks.

See, that's the thing. They totally put CRANE stock in capital letters on the listing for the gun and nothing but 'crane type, not included' under the 'battery' section (also wrote that it could fit larger crane type batteries) so I guessed it was cool because they said it would fit G&G on the battery's page.

 

In response to Daishain, you're sort-of right. There's a plastic thing sitting inside of the third chamber in the stock (where the small battery prong should go) from which the wire comes out of and that is the thing blocking it and seemingly preventing any 3-pronged battery from being used in the stock. I don't know why they'd design it like that when they could just have stuck it into the metal tube the stock's attached on and just run the wire through or made the plastic thing much smaller. I can attach a pic but I'm guessing you have some idea of what I'm talking about.

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