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covertghost

Is it possible to fix crooked threading on a gun?

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So all I'd have to do is place the threading die on the threads and twirl it around the threads until they are lined up? That sounds too good to be true haha.

 

Or do I need to purchase something like is as well? http://www.PLEASE DO NOT LINK TO EBAY SITES. COPY AND PASTE AD DETAILS HERE - THEIR ADS GO AWAY AFTER 90 DAYS/itm/M14x1-0-LH-Threading-Alignment-Tool-TAT-Die-Starter-for-7-62mm-Gunsmithing-/161186850817?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25877c2801

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Wow, that's nice. I'm guessing if I somehow botch the process (genuinely asking, how is that possible?), I can just run over the threads again?

Can I use one with this title? 1pc Metric Left Hand Die M14 X 1mm Dies Threading Tools 14mm X 1.0mm pitch

 

I'm not familiar with the measurements I need for this piece and the mk23 threads to match up. While the stock pictures look like the same piece, the one you linked says 7.62mm which this one doesn't. Will it still work?

 

Just to be absolutely sure, this one part is the only piece I need?

 

Thanks for your help. Its nice having an airsoft knowledge base to fall back on when needed.

Edited by covertghost

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The suppressor attaches on fine but the bbs hit the inside the suppressor. It is definitely not the suppressor as it was tested on a TM mk23 and works just fine. So I guess tilted then. It's been a while since I looked at it. It wasn't anything super obvious though as I missed it until I started firing bbs.

Edited by covertghost

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Then using a die to recut the threads will probably do you little if anything at all. Look instead at the shelf on the barrel where the suppressor sits against. You can either file the high spot on the barrel or on the suppressor to line it up. You will have to go at it a multiple times to get it right using trial and error and go at it in small increments so you won't go overboard and correct the opposite way.

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Wow, I completely missed that, sorry. I'm not quite sure what you mean by the shelf. Is it front area of the pistol's slide or the small protruding circle right behind the threads? How does filing the high spot on the barrel fix it up? Wouldn't the location be relative to whichever way the suppressor is tilting?

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Wow, I completely missed that, sorry. I'm not quite sure what you mean by the shelf. Is it front area of the pistol's slide or the small protruding circle right behind the threads? How does filing the high spot on the barrel fix it up? Wouldn't the location be relative to whichever way the suppressor is tilting?

There are two possible shelves which the suppressor tightens against: the very leading edge of the barrel or the small ledge where the threads end. To know which of the two you need to modify, apply scribing fluid on them and see which area is scratched off by the tightened suppressor. By filing the high spot you make the whole suppressor tilt towards its direction. For example, if the bbs are striking the 12 o'clock part of the device, file the 12 o'clock position of the barrel so the suppressor tilts upwards until bbs don't hit it anymore. It's easier to do on guns where you can remove the barrel but peering down through the muzzle also works, just be safe and make sure the gun is empty.

Edited by renegadecow

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Okay, so if the suppressor is say leaning to the left I would file down the 3 o'clock postion (barrel facing me) of either the very front or the very back of the threads, depending on what's getting scratched?

 

Why would removing the (inner?) barrel make the process easier? Is part of the whole "don't shoot your eye out" thing?

Edited by covertghost

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