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So I purchased a TM p90 with 5 mags a plate carrier and pouches for the plate carrier for $15 but it needs some work. It fires 1-3 shots on full in burst form, not in multi feeds. It does not fire on semi unless you pull REALLY hard and even then its occasional. It is missing the clip on the upper receiver it's my fault I lost it ): am going to look for the clip but I also need some help with the semi problem. I also want to make it a DMR so I would get a prommy 6.03. What kind of hop-up/bucking/nub should I get to go with this? Would the e1000 torque motor that came with it work with a m130 spring? The bottom of the gun that covers the trigger contacts is missing as well. Lots of problems.

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Sounds like a whole lot of fun - I just got my own P90 running again too so I know how you feel. A video of your gun would be *extremely* helpful for letting us know what's going on with your gearbox, so if you can get us one, we can probably get you a much better answer much faster than by description alone.

 

Second, what battery are you using? If you're using an 11.1v LiPo that's probably why you're having cycling issues.

 

The semi-auto issue is a finickey one, I'll have a photo of what I did to fix mine up soon-ish to show you how I fixed it on mine.

 

What is this 'clip' you speak of? The button you press to separate the two halves of the P90? A photo will make things easier to understand.

 

 

Now onto the fun part.

 

Making a TM P90 into an actual DMR, and not just a glorified, somewhat-more-accurate P90 takes a LOT more than just a fancy new barrel and some extra fps, especially since if your gun has a stock TM barrel and hop up in it, it's going to have very good consistency already.

 

An EG1000 will cry its heart out trying to pull an M130 without high torque gears - the magnets in it, as well as its armature's turn count cannot handle an M130 unless you use an obscenely huge, high discharge battery... and even then I actually don't think it can pull it, to be honest.

 

Instead of telling you how to make your P90 a DMR, I'd sooner explain to you how to make your P90 more accurate as an SMG-style AEG capable of being used effectively in 200ft or longer engagements, which will be a hell of a lot more effective for you, because internally and mechanically, your P90 is *basically* an M4 CQB, save for a bit shorter inner barrel. Think about it:

 

An M4 CQB has a ~300mm inner barrel, a long type motor, standard gearbox(v2) with 15 tooth piston, and runs off of typically an 8.4v-9.6v NiMh

A P90 has a 247mm inner barrel, a long type motor, standard gearbox(v6) with 15 tooth piston, and runs off of typically an 8.4v-9.6v NiMh

 

Not too different huh?

 

Typically I, like others, will tell you to leave a stock TM alone, that once you open the gearbox you ruin the magic that is inside a TM's gearbox, but given the state of your AEG by your description, and that it's second-hand, I actually feel safe to guess it's probably been tinkered with already.

 

I normally don't just give information to people who don't research and just ask for it outright, because your build has been discussed a thousand, thousand times over on forums across the internet, but I'm bored, so I'll tell you what I'd do to your P90 if it were mine in your case. I would install these parts:

 

- Modify Steel Bushings - Durability - Nylon bushings will crack/break under an M120 after a short while. These must be replaced with steel bushings.

- SHS/ZCI 18:1 Ratio Gears - Durability - TM's gears aren't the strongest, and will eventually fail under an M120+ spring. ZCI/SHS are tough and can easily handle it.

- SHS/ZCI High Torque Motor - These can pull M170's on standard gears with a good battery. An M120 is nothing to these.

- Apex Python Mosfet or Unconventional Airsoft Mosfet - The P90 trigger is pretty inefficient, a mosfet lets you get the most power to the motor in the most efficient way.

- Madbull 6.03mm 247mm Tightbore - It's not going to be a huge jump in consistency, but you'll probably notice a descent jump in groupings and fps.

- R-Hop - Accuracy, this is going to let you fire heavy weight BBs very, very consistently.

- Lonex Air Seal Nozzle - Free FPS, basically. No air loss between the cylinder nozzle and air nozzle once this is installed.

- Scatterplot 40 Duro Sorbo Pad w/Neoprene protector - Durability, and it makes your gun quieter by dampening the piston hitting the cylinder head and softening the impact.

- Steel Bearing Spring Guide - Durability - It's better than plastic obviously, and the bearing will help reduce torsion on your spring, and stabilize your FPS shot for shot.

- M110 Spring - ..... well SOMETHING has to provide power to the piston, doesn't it? An M120 with good compression will put you at probably ~420fps, and if your field doesn't allow any gun that can fire automatic to shoot over 400, you need to step it down a notch. I've seen M110's with perfect compression hit 390fps before, so I know it's possible.

 

Yep, I'm basically rebuilding the gearbox, but you kind of have to if you think about it. TM's weren't designed to run at M120+ stress levels out of the box, so stuff needs to be replaced so it can. These parts will run you from $150-$175 depending on where you get them, but your gun will cycle an M120 pretty easily and, after a few thousand rounds and once the spring settles, ideally you will be right in the 375-400fps range.

 

Of course you have to do your typical mods, you know stuff like glue in bushings, shim bevel-to-pinion, break in your motor, shave teeth off the piston for Angle of Engagement, Teflon tape the cylinder head, polish the cylinder if you want. Little things like that.

 

Now, if you REALLY want to cut out one of the biggest pains in the :censored2: to this whole build - and you don't mind dropping $70 on a barrel, Clandestine is selling the exact barrel you want in your P90 with a pre-fit R-Hop Patch. I highly, HIGHLY recommend picking one of these up.

 

And the final touch, load .28g BBs or heavier into your AEG from here on out. Load good quality bb's into this gun and enjoy consistent shots out 200ft or farther. Anything lighter than a .28g will not work right in this kind of setup, and you will likely find yourself LOSING range and accuracy with faster, lighter BBs.

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Here is the photo of the trigger switch I promised.

 

022_zps8v7uk7fe.jpg

 

Basically what I did was I took about a 1mm thick chunk of plastic and used Loctite to glue it in place. After cutting it to sit flush with the wedge it's glued against, I tested it and now semi-auto works like a charm again. You *might* need to adjust your trigger contacts in the trigger assembly to get this working 100%, but consistent, reliable semi-auto is worth a few minutes of tinkering, wouldn't you agree?

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Thank you so much. I know the guy before me did some upgrades but IDK about the things inside the gearbox. So it has a mock silencer on it, which measures out to hold about a 430mm barrel overall. It looks to have a new gear set, spring guide and bushings. The bushings are metal. The gears have a black coating on them and I am not sure about what brand makes them, do stock TM gears have this coating? The spring guide is a metal ball bearing. I have re-greased, shimmed and corrected the AOE. The guy who had this before me put in a Madbull tightbore barrel Black Python version 2 363MM. So I will try to fix the semi auto and let you know how it goes. What barrel should I get thats 430MMish? should I get the promethius 407mm 6.03 and install R-hop? or get something else? Should I keep the one he has in it or not? I am not using a 11.1, I am using a 9.6 NIMH 1600 MAH battery. I will try to get a new motor and spring too.

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