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Jeebus Christmas

Hi-Capa steel parts are a waste of money?

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I have tens of thousands of rounds fired on my Hi-Capas and nothing has broken so that says something for TM part quality (if maintained).

 

The only reason I like aftermarket steel parts is they give a smoother action (assuming you are talking about the trigger/hammer group) but the same effect can be had by using fine #4 or #5 swiss files and filing your current parts smooth (don't do this unless you know how much to file unless you like having a full auto or non working pistol).

 

Yes the steel parts have more durability but it is only needed when you are making a match gun or if you are pistol primary and fire a LOT of rounds.

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I have tens of thousands of rounds fired on my Hi-Capas and nothing has broken so that says something for TM part quality (if maintained).

 

The only reason I like aftermarket steel parts is they give a smoother action (assuming you are talking about the trigger/hammer group) but the same effect can be had by using fine #4 or #5 swiss files and filing your current parts smooth (don't do this unless you know how much to file unless you like having a full auto or non working pistol).

 

Yes the steel parts have more durability but it is only needed when you are making a match gun or if you are pistol primary and fire a LOT of rounds.

 

Are you a pistol primary?

 

Yes, I meant the trigger group. What's being a match gun got to do with needing steel parts?

 

Have you ever saw a metal slide, or spring guide sheer or break apart under normal use?

Edited by Dead Christmas

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Yeah I'm pistol primary, sometimes my GBB 416 if my TM breaks and I happen to not have the part.

 

Competition/race guns. The hardened steel makes the action very very smooth and consistent. And the fact they training puts a lot of rounds through a gun.

 

Metal slides wear out on the lugs but that can be fixed with a non-tilting barrel. Never had a metal slide break/crack under normal use though I have had stock plastic ones crack.

 

I have had a TM stock guide rod crack right at the base but its nit common. I am now using an aluminum one that I lathed myself.

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Yeah I'm pistol primary, sometimes my GBB 416 if my TM breaks and I happen to not have the part.

 

Competition/race guns. The hardened steel makes the action very very smooth and consistent. And the fact they training puts a lot of rounds through a gun.

 

Metal slides wear out on the lugs but that can be fixed with a non-tilting barrel. Never had a metal slide break/crack under normal use though I have had stock plastic ones crack.

 

I have had a TM stock guide rod crack right at the base but its nit common. I am now using an aluminum one that I lathed myself.

 

Can you give me an example of a non-tilting barrel?

 

How did you lathe a spring guide? Lathe out of a block of aluminum?

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5KU makes a very cheap ($9 about) and it works well enough but the finish on it sucks, if you want to spend more ($90) you can get one from Ninball or Prog4/Gunsmithbros/AirsoftSurgeon.

 

Just a 13mm diameter aluminum rod that was lathed to spec on a mini lathe, less than $2 in material for a custom extended guide.

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5KU makes a very cheap ($9 about) and it works well enough but the finish on it sucks, if you want to spend more ($90) you can get one from Ninball or Prog4/Gunsmithbros/AirsoftSurgeon.

 

Just a 13mm diameter aluminum rod that was lathed to spec on a mini lathe, less than $2 in material for a custom extended guide.

 

Something like this?

 

http://www.ebairsoft.com/recoil-outer-barrel-marui-hicapa-silver-p-5198.html

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I run with 4 just because I don't shoot too many rounds, normally I have 30-50 left after a 20 minute unlimited respawn CQB game and usually don't finish a mag in three life games as I shoot very conservatively.

 

I have one TM and the rest are WE mags, I like the WE because they are cheap and if lubed properly, have no problems with leaks (though very few people ever lube their mags properly, letting seals soak, different weight oils for the valves). Lately I have been using one mag tapped to HPA that I reload between deaths and I have a backup with propane if I need more ammo during a life.

 

Last time I checked, ScopeandLaser has the barrels for around $9 though it ships from HK. They guy is very helpful though.

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I run with 4 just because I don't shoot too many rounds, normally I have 30-50 left after a 20 minute unlimited respawn CQB game and usually don't finish a mag in three life games as I shoot very conservatively.

 

I have one TM and the rest are WE mags, I like the WE because they are cheap and if lubed properly, have no problems with leaks (though very few people ever lube their mags properly, letting seals soak, different weight oils for the valves). Lately I have been using one mag tapped to HPA that I reload between deaths and I have a backup with propane if I need more ammo during a life.

 

Last time I checked, ScopeandLaser has the barrels for around $9 though it ships from HK. They guy is very helpful though.

 

Can you use a speed loader with those magazines?

 

How do you only use 4? you gotta suppress people with that pistol lmao.

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Yeah, I load them in the bottom hole, if I don't worry about completely double stacking I can reload about 24-26 shots in a few seconds.

 

I don't suppress people with it, the more I fire the more people come for me. I keep people behind walls with my flashlight and flank. It's a very high speed play style where quick precise aiming and moving play a huge role. Until you get lit up by an AEG

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Yeah, I load them in the bottom hole, if I don't worry about completely double stacking I can reload about 24-26 shots in a few seconds.

 

I don't suppress people with it, the more I fire the more people come for me. I keep people behind walls with my flashlight and flank. It's a very high speed play style where quick precise aiming and moving play a huge role. Until you get lit up by an AEG

 

What, is CQB all that you play?

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It's the majority, a good 90%. It's just what I have around and they stay open late, and the guy that runs it is awesome.

 

Oh, so you guys don't have any "field" fields? That would blow.

 

At least you have a close field to go to, the closest one to me is about five miles away!

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I've had a few WE pistols. they work great for the first year or so. then you start to have random problems.

most of them were slide related. the slide fails usually toward the rear, starting with a small crack around the rear sight.

I've even had one of them's spring guide plug break in half; fired the gun, and it shot a plug with a BB for a double tap, hahaha

BUT I've never had an internal part (hammer, striker, disconnector, spring etc) break.

do note that it the aforementioned experiences happened with lighter WE slides, usually in single stack 1911s and early glock models.

heavier WE slides (on their "CQB MATER" models and the "dragon" variants) are pretty sturdy, albeit horribly gas inefficient

 

I've gotten two TM hi-capas afterwards. Had them for...6? years now, have had one problem: one piston rubber tore.

other than that, no problems.

I honestly think in terms of functional longevity, the plastic slide is better than metal.

the slide stop wears out real fast on plastic slides (well, Al slides don't last too long either to be fair), but if you just want the gun to cycle and you don't mind the lack of last-shot-open, keep the plastic slide on.

 

so, yes.

from my personal experience I've never had an internal part breakage, either on a WE or a TM hicapa.

lots of external parts breakage on WE's though.

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WE uses relatively soft alloys for their pistol FCGs. They're not exactly prone to breakage as not many shoot them often enough to wear them down significantly, but they do. Particularly with 19/2011s the sear engagement is very small so a bit of wear goes a long way. You'll notice that the hammer begins to engage higher and higher. Eventually it gets to a point where it gets stuck under the BBU. You can file down the BBU or the hammer in this case but with the sear and hammer wearing down further it will start to go full auto and eventually into a runaway full auto. It's better to buy stock replacements at this point since they're so cheap. Steel ones will last practically forever and can be tuned to a hair trigger without sacrificing durability.

Have a nice thick grease on your sear and it should stay fine. More common breakages however are the valve knocker lock and the disconnector but I think those are attributed more on QC issues rather than eventual wear. KJW's last longer than WEs at any rate.

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