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Yergo

Good AEG Rifle for beginner?

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I'm new to airsoft, and I was wondering, what are some good brands/guns for a beginner? I prefer AK and FAL style rifles, and I've been looking at a CYMA folding stock AK-47, but I've heard bad things about CYMA. I'd probably be playing outdoors, as opposed to CQB. My price range is about 130 or 140 dollars.


s-l1600.jpg


Picture is the gun I've been looking at.

Edited by Yergo

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Yes. that is actually a very nice starter rifle. very reliable gun. get it and a 9.6v battery. you wont be dissapointed.

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but since your budget is a little bit more, a better starter rifle as it is metal and wont crack if you accidentally drop it on concrete is http://www.evike.com/products/30129/

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Guest alberty

Yes. that is actually a very nice starter rifle. very reliable gun. get it and a 9.6v battery. you wont be dissapointed.

 

There's a problem. If the user has a TM-type CYMA AK, such as the CM.028S we see in his posted picture, the battery tray in there will not fit longer than an 8.4v NiMH stick battery. Even with modification, there is not a good amount of space available for the last cell of the 9.6v NiMH stick battery size.

 

And because of the battery tray shape, if you want to use a 7.4v stick lipo instead, you need to make sure you get a very thin one.

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There's a problem. If the user has a TM-type CYMA AK, such as the CM.028S we see in his posted picture, the battery tray in there will not fit longer than an 8.4v NiMH stick battery. Even with modification, there is not a good amount of space available for the last cell of the 9.6v NiMH stick battery size.

 

And because of the battery tray shape, if you want to use a 7.4v stick lipo instead, you need to make sure you get a very thin one.

what he said ^^^^

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7.4s don't last long unless you pamper them lol, just stick with the 8.4 as its still very quiet and with the 9.6 ull mess with the contacts a little. Just get the one with the full wooden stock or the one with the folding triangular stock as the 47 style flipping stock kinda sucks áss and breaks pretty quick so if you cant get wooden get the folding type 74 because its just so much better lol, also those polymer ak pistol grips are very very comfortable and easy on the hands.

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I always suggest an AR for starters. In the beginning your gonna want to play with all the accessories and stuff that go on guns. After a while that gets old and people usually buy a second gun thats way different either in looks or class.(sub, assault, lmg, etc). I run guns that I own in real steel so that way im training with the same platforms.

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yeah but the problem with that is aks are a lot cheaper for the same quality of an ar of a higher price. Longer inner barrels=better accuracy(unless you wanna run a 500mm m16 that's like 200$). The motors are secure inside the grips. rail attachments do nothing in terms of performance enhancement(probably for looks but you can stain the wood on the ak and swap it out for a real wood kit if you ever wanted to. The sights are tighter(it seems like a con but bbs fly pretty high over them so if you wanted to track them youd need to just look. It's obviously able to adjust for distance(even though theres this thing called hopup which kinda defeats the purpose of those sights)

You can stain the wood whatever color you want, the magazines hold a lot more ammo and legitimately stay in without having to use tape. The cyma high caps last forever(ive had mine all stock and never had to get a single mag for about a year because it functioned flawlessly). I know its an opinion but I think wood aks look better. You can get the polymer type which comes with the folding triangular stock(the best stock ever, your m4 stock cant fold for cqb can it?) I think its a downside since I like slower ROFs but their motors run at 1 rps higher than version 2 motors generally.

AKs are just as customizable as m4s aswell so if you wanted to run it with accessories you'd just need to get some polymer grips that have rails on them or get a functioning warsaw to RIS rail adapter on it.

look up "why m4" or jimbibblo, he kinda covered this a while ago

 

Also, I can see why you wouldn't like the weight but it does wonders for accuracy and your probably either too young or out of shape if you can carry a 7.5 pound gun (PS the m16s with the 500mm barrels weigh the same lol)

 

cm048s have the vfc style takedown which I find vastly superior to the ar pin based take down simply because you cant mess it up. It was covered in jimbibblos thing aswell

Edited by jroble95
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7.4s don't last long unless you pamper them lol, just stick with the 8.4 as its still very ...

Wanna bet?

 

2S 7.4V 1400mah have a discharge curve like this, under 15A load:

 

24_dischargingmechanics.gif

 

Run a lipo up to the cliff and stop!

 

You get a working range under load of 8-7.3V

 

While a NIMH in 2/3A does this (note this graph is represent with the BEST 2/3A on market, not the crappy Tenergy or others):

 

elite1500-ib1400.gif

 

So, under a 15A load (first 50mah is disregarded) AND this is a 9.6V pack. A 7 cell 8.4V is further hampered and slower.

 

The 8 cell pack gives you 9V to 8V under load. Remove one cell to to extrapolate a 7 cell voltage curve by 1.2V. That means your 7 cell 8.4V pack gives you 7.8V to 6.8V under load.

 

Plus when a NIMH pack reaches 80% drained...will not have sufficient power to turn your AEG over so you pack uses end a 1200mah (for 1500mah pack). A lipo runs to 90%, so a 1400mah pack will get you to ~1360mah.

 

So, now which one lasts longer? And on top of that...which one has more usable voltage?

 

Note...the graph is pictured with a 10A discharge. AEG's draw 15 on average...which means the usable voltage drops even more.

 

Things are not that simple now are they?...

Edited by Guges Mk3
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these aren't massively noticeable, so when there isn't much of a difference then you have to look at the pros and cons of the batteries, and like I said LiPos are a lot more fragile than NiMhs.

 

edit: I was referring to the usable MaH difference because 10% is nothing. Also, wouldnt it be a lower usable capacity as draining a LiPo damages it, I know that 1360 isnt too close to 1400 but does it start damaging the battery at 1360 or at 1399-1400.

 

And by using factual generalizations, they are fairly simple. So I can say for example AKs are more reliable than M4s and that would be right. if someone disagrees I can go ahead and refute them as people shouldnt push generalizations if they don't know much.

Edited by jroble95
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these aren't massively noticeable, so when there isn't much of a difference then you have to look at the pros and cons of the batteries, and like I said LiPos are a lot more fragile than NiMhs.

 

This says a lot about your LIPO Experience.

 

Can your AEG fire this fast on a NIMH - Start at 2:00

 

Mechbox is stock G&P at 400fps 18:1 ratio

 

Motor is not stock though...that is partially why it fires so fast. But, the key is 400fps. FYI...its shooting 25rps. No 8.4V will ever hit this speed and not many 9.6V in 2/3A size won't either. SubC pack size will though.

 

Edited by Guges Mk3
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why would I want 25 rps, doesn't do shît for supporting fire and plus I don't use .20s so I'd be shooting 25 cents every burst with my .28s. And if you cant hit your targets with 10-12 rps then you have a serious problem with your aim.

 

My point was that an 8.4 is the best battery for longevity on your gun and itself as LiPos are 10-15 seconds away from either exploding or puffing up and never holding a charge. And yes I did use my 9.6 to hit somewhere around 18-25 rps on my other aeg but it broke pretty fast. So whats your point(considering what I said here)

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My point is LIPO are not that fragile. And have a more linear power curve.

 

My point is that also a 2S LIPO have more usable voltage than an 8.4v pack which you claim the opposite is true when in fact it is not.

 

8.4V Packs in 2/3A packs lose ~6-10rps after 40%% discharge. After 75% discharge AEG may not even fire,

 

While LIPO can run to 90% with only a 2-4rps drop.

 

Both are facts proven by the two graphs listed, I am supporting my side of the debate with hard data. Do you have anything you want to put up showing that 8.4V is a better performing battery than a 2S Lipo versus personal supposition?

 

As for the 25RPS AEG...its not about the bb dump...while it can do it. The advantage of a 25rps AEG is trigger response.

Edited by Guges Mk3
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my point was that a 8.4 will last longer than a 7.4 because if you overcharge or undercharge a 7.4 it will puff up and/or explode(and it will do this faster than an 8.4 can damage itself from overheating). Performancewise sure the 7.4 is superior but its still wear on your parts so if you want your gun to last longer youd want to use an 8.4. Also didn't you say that using crappy guns is better than using good guns because you think struggle is good? Can you be consistent with that philosophy or do you just change your mind every 10 seconds.

Its really starting to seem like you cant read and comprehend what others are saying even if they are agreeing with you. And the thing is trigger response really doesn't matter even in those situations where your going to get hit since your both going to call your hit even with a crazy fast trigger response as the slowest response is still fairly quick. 25 rps is usually going to be used for bb dumping and almost never for those rare matrix situations where you have a 50/50 chance of getting hit and that 100th of a millisecond is going to save you. Its really just skill/luckbased so halving a trigger response isn't going to do anything except empty your wallet faster.

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my point was that a 8.4 will last longer than a 7.4 because if you overcharge or undercharge a 7.4 it will puff up and/or explode(and it will do this faster than an 8.4 can damage itself from overheating). Performancewise sure the 7.4 is superior but its still wear on your parts so if you want your gun to last longer youd want to use an 8.4. Also didn't you say that using crappy guns is better than using good guns because you think struggle is good? Can you be consistent with that philosophy or do you just change your mind every 10 seconds.

Its really starting to seem like you cant read and comprehend what others are saying even if they are agreeing with you. And the thing is trigger response really doesn't matter even in those situations where your going to get hit since your both going to call your hit even with a crazy fast trigger response as the slowest response is still fairly quick. 25 rps is usually going to be used for bb dumping and almost never for those rare matrix situations where you have a 50/50 chance of getting hit and that 100th of a millisecond is going to save you. Its really just skill/luckbased so halving a trigger response isn't going to do anything except empty your wallet faster.

You need to speak from experience, because your comments are obviously not from direct experience.

 

If you properly charge a LIPO it will not puff up. LIPO chargers know when to stop and prevent overcharging. Also...there are many video out there showing how well made some LIPOS are and will not puff up very easily. You cannot undercharge a LIPO and cause it to puff up. I have topped off LIPOS many times between rounds and all the packs I use are still square.

 

LIPOS do not "explode", they can burn. But, so can a NIMH if you puncture them with a full charge albeit not as dramatically as a LIPO.

 

Okay...you are really showing your inexperience and all your information is gleaned from incorrect web info.

 

LIPO do NOT wear an AEG abnormally. WEAR from use is WEAR from use, regardless if its voltage from LIPO or NIMH. Your argument is like saying electricity from Natural Gas Power Plants are better than power from Coal Fired Power Pants. See how that does not ring true. There is NO difference.

 

The only wear you get more from a LIPO is due to the HIGHER linear Voltage. Higher Voltage...Higher Wear. NIMH have a steeper power drop off and thus yes...less power = LESS wear.

 

Quote me on the crappy gun issue. You may have misread or misunderstood a topic.

 

As for your arguments about RPS and Trigger Experience...you still do not understand how things work in an AEG. It's not Videos games here.

 

How much time is between shots in a 25rps AEG versus a 14rps AEG. Now extrapolate that to first shot time. Do you see how math and scientific principles shows it gives you a faster trigger response which all comes down to the bb leaving the barrel as quickly as possible.

 

25RPS = 1/25 = .04 and that how fast your first shot gets off with the trigger pull

 

vs.

 

14RPS = 1/14 = .07 and that is almost double the time it takes to get one shot off on one trigger pull.

 

Now take these variables and apply it to semi-auto mode...First shot is still half as fast.

 

I would be happy to see you explain how this is "wrong" and I don't know what I am writing about. Because, so far you have offered nothing other than personal conjecture and inexperience in your arguments.

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I don't mean wear from voltage as that can be fixed with a mosfet or just greased contacts. I'm talking about wear from just round count and the speed of the cycling of the parts inside an aeg, I'm sorry but by the laws of physics obviously wouldn't extra force on the internals of a gun cause more wear and tear on it? And if so, then wouldn't a higher round count also wear it down even more simply from the rps? What about your AoE, wouldn't damage caused by errors be amplified from higher speeds from the action? And even if it really doesn't significantly wear out the internals of your gun more even shot per shot it wouldn't be worth the hundredth of a second boost in trigger response and heres why

 

So, the average reaction time of humans is .25 seconds, the average reaction time of gamers is .181 seconds. Lets say 50% of airsofters are gamers(with their hours ingame spread out of course.) The average reaction time of an airsofter should then be around .23275 seconds on average. So then why the hell would a .03 second variance EVER even matter? I know you would say something dumb like "what if you miss the first shot" Well, the thing is most airsofters don't react to a single shot as a threat so add .03 to that .23275 then start subtracting because those are shots. You have about 3 shots until a super rare skilled person with a reaction time of .14 can react and start dodging bbs which he apparently knows the exact location of.(We're already stretching the envelope as this person has probably a 10% chance to exist at your average local backwood airsoft field).

 

Now I know im not calculating the fps of guns but a 330 fps .25 shouldn't take too long to get to a target at 100ft. I'd say in the .15s but that's only if he knows your there and if your actually good you would know not to just pop out of a corner and start shooting wildly because this isn't counter strike. You'd rather want an ambush and him being alerted by the shot and not you trying to get the shot, which is going to be your first priority. So after he assesses your the threat AS SOON as he hears shooting, just instantly because hes a robot that perfectly knows whats a threat and whats not a threat 100% of the time. He would have a window of time of about .24 seconds only after the 3rd shot, now if its one shot he's most likely not going to react(this is from experience) and if he does he has no chance whatsoever at 100ft with a .25 going at 330 fps at dodging it even when knowing its coming.

 

We could talk about z tables and all. But that +/- variance is rather insignificant when compared to the time between shots and all this other stuff. Truth is that with training of any sort and and either a normal reaction time to start with or you learning easily. You can beat that tiny portion of players with an ever so slightly better reaction time than most people. But the thing is reaction time is quite irrelevant when it comes to airsoft simply because skill is 90% tactics so a tiny little variance like that isn't much in the grand scheme of things unless your neo or some shît and that hundredth of a damn second matters because your in the matrix.

Edited by jroble95
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Instead of getting an "AK or FAL" styled guns just get a beginners beginner weapon. For a beginner, you should just get something along the lines of an m4 that can be handled and internals taken apart and or replaced easily. Some of the airsoft guns along the lines an m4 can have stocks that have a block styled battery and butterfly styled opening for you so you have more of a choice. The internals is easy to take apart however the gearbox can be tricky if you don't know how to open it and replace the internals of it. Plus the rails give you more customizability.

Edited by Sycniverse
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Ok, m4s are not very good in the takedown department as it relies on two pins to hold it together. So if one of those pins stop functioning as intended from manufacturing mistakes you physically cannot put your gun back together, this happened on the 3rd takedown of my dad's dboys m16a4(replaced a spring). And even if it is functioning well, fully stock you can pull the spring attached to the charging handle off and then you gotta order a 24$ OEM replacement and I don't like that. Now with your basic cyma(should be the standard for starter guns tbh) ak-47 the takedown is initiated by 4 screws which sure can jam but that's if your dumb and fixing that is pretty easy. Maybe a nut falls out and you cant find a black nut on your white carpeted floors, then maybe you just shouldn't be taking apart your gun.

 

Polymer style ak stocks are a lot roomier than m4 stocks heh.

 

gearboxes are pretty easy to take apart when you get the hang of it and on that note v3s are generally more reliable unless you want some exotic :censored2: shît like that weird mega AR guges likes with the V2L cylinder but it isn't a starter gun, its a cheap "dmr"(by field standards go away guges)

Edited by jroble95
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Ok, m4s are not very good in the takedown department as it relies on two pins to hold it together. So if one of those pins stop functioning as intended from manufacturing mistakes you physically cannot put your gun back together, this happened on the 3rd takedown of my dad's dboys m16a4(replaced a spring). And even if it is functioning well, fully stock you can pull the spring attached to the charging handle off and then you gotta order a 24$ OEM replacement and I don't like that. Now with your basic cyma(should be the standard for starter guns tbh) ak-47 the takedown is initiated by 4 screws which sure can jam but that's if your dumb and fixing that is pretty easy. Maybe a nut falls out and you cant find a black nut on your white carpeted floors, then maybe you just shouldn't be taking apart your gun.

 

Polymer style ak stocks are a lot roomier than m4 stocks heh.

 

gearboxes are pretty easy to take apart when you get the hang of it and on that note v3s are generally more reliable unless you want some exotic :censored2: shît like that weird mega AR guges likes with the V2L cylinder but it isn't a starter gun, its a cheap "dmr"(by field standards go away guges)

Well my front pin is made where it never comes out and back you have to have a hex key to unscrew it to get it out so it isn't a problem for me, they can also be replaced. Like you said about the charging handle where you can pull the spring I disagree. On mine the charging handle spring is detachable from the handle and attaches to a blowback system in my gun so it's perfectly fine and will not break .

 

As a statement to a beginner I was saying it's tricky to take apart a gearbox but yes "once you get the hang of it" yo should be good however I wouldn't be randomly taking the gearbox apart as a beginner.

Edited by Sycniverse

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well, first. Blowback guns aren't beginner guns so that statement you made is irrelevant. Second you require a hex key while I can just pull my cleaning rod out(the one on my gun cause ak externals>m4 externals just sayin) and pop a single pin out and just pop the wood off, unscrew the hopup from the outer barrel and slide the barrel off while on most beginner m4s(not your 200$ non-beginner blowback gun) you have to pop those pins out and they malfunction quite quickly. So if my 200$ Dboys m16a4 can malfunction like that, I wonder how a cheap 100$ polymer ar would malfunction.

 

Plus I forgot to mention the inner barrels are longer(unless you wanna blow 160+$ on a gun which isn't beginner and get a 500mm barrel) aks have longer inner barrels. They have vastly superior mag releases(I don't have to put tape on my magazine to keep it in). AKs look better when worn, they have the same modularity as ARs(I think its a downside as accessories are completely pointless). They don't function on the O-ring system which has like a 90% failure rate, or even that the sights are better suited for the ranges your engaging at. Their magazines hold more, their motors are more secure in their grips, you can put wood on them(more customizable than rails imo). CYMA aks come with a superior hopup unit and some even come with steel hopups(a good deal at 160 or below or a 180 dollar gun). They come with folding stocks and some even come with folding AND ADJUSTABLE stocks. And their just more durable internally and externally(especially for the budget, a high end gun would be an E&L which can withstand a spring change up to an m150 up to 1200 shots and a spring change to an m125 reliably)

 

PS, those pins aren't interchangeable.

Edited by jroble95
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well, first. Blowback guns aren't beginner guns so that statement you made is irrelevant. Second you require a hex key while I can just pull my cleaning rod out(the one on my gun cause ak externals>m4 externals just sayin) and pop a single pin out and just pop the wood off, unscrew the hopup from the outer barrel and slide the barrel off while on most beginner m4s(not your 200$ non-beginner blowback gun) you have to pop those pins out and they malfunction quite quickly. So if my 200$ Dboys m16a4 can malfunction like that, I wonder how a cheap 100$ polymer ar would malfunction.

 

Plus I forgot to mention the inner barrels are longer(unless you wanna blow 160+$ on a gun which isn't beginner and get a 500mm barrel) aks have longer inner barrels. They have vastly superior mag releases(I don't have to put tape on my magazine to keep it in). AKs look better when worn, they have the same modularity as ARs(I think its a downside as accessories are completely pointless). They don't function on the O-ring system which has like a 90% failure rate, or even that the sights are better suited for the ranges your engaging at. Their magazines hold more, their motors are more secure in their grips, you can put wood on them(more customizable than rails imo). CYMA aks come with a superior hopup unit and some even come with steel hopups(a good deal at 160 or below or a 180 dollar gun). They come with folding stocks and some even come with folding AND ADJUSTABLE stocks. And their just more durable internally and externally(especially for the budget, a high end gun would be an E&L which can withstand a spring change up to an m150 up to 1200 shots and a spring change to an m125 reliably)

I mean blowback aeg I got it for $150. Also to get inside all you do is pop out the front pin push up on the dust cover and pull back on the charging handle and the front slides right off. About the barrels you can just get an m4 with a pretty long barrel and add a mock suppressor onto it and buy a much better and longer inner barrel for it. Scar L's come with a folding stock and a pretty big stock as well and is similar in style to the m4.

*bought the gun of someone*

Edited by Sycniverse

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Well, then you come into the problem of undervoluming lol, your cylinder is made for the barrel length your gun has at stock, the more barrel volume you add the more the bb slows down. This is the same mechanic that causes joule creep in gas guns and short barreled guns. 150$ is not a beginner gun, most non mansion owning dads are willing to spend up to 130$, that's your beginner territory right there.

 

And yes I know how to take apart an ar, its just that they rely on only two points of contact that makes BEGINNER ones unreliable. Oh and btw type 3 motors generally run 1 rps faster than type 2, so theres that.

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You sure make up a lot of stuff JR...that is just not true.

 

First off there is No Such Thing as a Type 2 Motor and a Type 3 Motor. Your making stuff up here.

 

There are V3 Mechboxes that use a MEDIUM Motor and there are V3 Mechboxes that run a SHORT Motor. The 1 RPS difference is completely made up by you.

 

Only difference between motors is shaft length. Of which the 1 RPS is not quantified.

 

Because this 30,000 RPM motor:

 

tienly-v3-f-5000-gt30000-high-torque-mot

Is the smae as this 30,000 RMP motor.

airsoft-tienly-gt3000-aeg-motor-long.jpg

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So, how isn't there a difference mechanically between the type 2 and the type 3 other than the shaft length motors and why do I have to get so technical with everything when I say anything, I use their commercial names which is what everyone calls them. It could be ebonics but everyone knows what a gat is.

Edited by jroble95

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I forgot to address one of your points. You just said they don't exist, then refferred to them as type 2 and type 3, you only said I said their names wrong so I don't see what the problem is here as thats the most inconsequential thing and its nitpicking to this point.

 

EDIT: forgot to read my last post here. This was a fun debate imho

 

EDIT 2: I also forgot to say that blowback aegs are terrible starter guns.

Edited by jroble95

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Because your making up stuff that already has a classification.

 

Do you call a Magazine a Clip?

 

Do you call a Pick-Up truck a Car?

 

If you don't use the accepted terminology that was set and put in place by others. You are being disrespectful and among other things...misinformed.

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well, you would know what I was referring to so why would it matter. Also not knowing the exact terminology of something is not disrespectful, just dumb. Don't make a big deal about it as that's what is disrespectful.

Edited by jroble95

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fun fact, the creator of the suppressor called it a silencer

Hiram Percy Maxim (September 2, 1869 – February 17, 1936) was an American radio pioneer andinventor, and ... Maxim is also noted as the inventor of the "Maxim Silencer", a suppressor for firearms (patented in 1908) as well as of a silencer ...
Edited by jroble95

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Hi!

 

I've been playing airsoft for about three years spending most of my free time doing research on most everything in the airsoft world. I would highly recommend Double Eagle M85P AEG Rifle If you want a good airsoft rifle at a good price, Double Eagle is usually pretty hard to beat.

 

Now, they’re back on the scene with the M85P, an entry-level, fully automatic air rifle. It’s a full-sized replica of the actual bullet-shooting M85, and apart from the orange tip on the barrel, it’s very realistic.

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Hi!

 

I've been playing airsoft for about three years spending most of my free time doing research on most everything in the airsoft world. I would highly recommend Double Eagle M85P AEG Rifle If you want a good airsoft rifle at a good price, Double Eagle is usually pretty hard to beat.

 

Now, theyre back on the scene with the M85P, an entry-level, fully automatic air rifle. Its a full-sized replica of the actual bullet-shooting M85, and apart from the orange tip on the barrel, its very realistic.

Wow just noooo just noooo

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Hi!

 

I've been playing airsoft for about three years spending most of my free time doing research on most everything in the airsoft world. I would highly recommend Double Eagle M85P AEG Rifle If you want a good airsoft rifle at a good price, Double Eagle is usually pretty hard to beat.

 

Now, they’re back on the scene with the M85P, an entry-level, fully automatic air rifle. It’s a full-sized replica of the actual bullet-shooting M85, and apart from the orange tip on the barrel, it’s very realistic.

Sorry m8 that's just utter blasphemy.

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Usually, CYMA has some GREAT AK's for the prices, I'm sure you got this already from another person on

 

here, but here's what I'm thinking of getting: http://www.evike.com/products/30129/

 

Also, CYMA AK's are usually metal and have an average FPS of 390~ or even 400~ give or take.

 

Not only that, but they're very affordable and you can find extra mags on this Evike site. I think the CYMA

 

AK's with the wood furniture are beautiful, but I like a more tactical blackish look.

 

Anyways, I would say to start with a CYMA and just research into other good brands that make good AK's.

 

Hope this helps :)

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If you properly charge a LIPO it will not puff up. LIPO chargers know when to stop and prevent overcharging. Also...there are many video out there showing how well made some LIPOS are and will not puff up very easily. You cannot undercharge a LIPO and cause it to puff up. I have topped off LIPOS many times between rounds and all the packs I use are still square.

I was refferring to use, if you charge a LiPo to 40% and you don't know about it(which is going to happen, sorry) its gonna be damaged my dude. Damaging is what makes them suck at holding charges which in turn damages them more as they would lose charge after a while. Also, pretty much any NiMH can take atleast 5 mis charges as my tenergy is working fine, yes that brand you hate outperforms LiPos twice its price. Also, quantity beats quality generally in the world of "combat"(I wouldn't know any less cheesy names) Because I'd rather have more players with that stuff than less with your stuff.

 

Also, overcharging=/=topping off, you have a 80 dollar charger and I don't, I can mess up my batteries and have them still work for cheaper and you cant not use your absurdly expensive charger to charge LiPos, what do you reccomend? 12 year olds that are getting into the sport to blow 40 bucks+100 bucks from their gun or 20 bucks+100 because nobody is willing to do that at that point and nobody should be willing to do that as there isn't much of an advantage of 25 rps over 12 unless you enjoy wasting money buying the equipment you require for that, then babying that equipment if your bank account runs dry and you cant afford a stupid charger that costs as much as a gun.

 

Heres the laydown, I want more people to play my sport, therefore I want people to spend less so they can play. I know what the minimal budget is and so do you, so what do you think as I would guess 3/10 players are newbies, 3/10 are intermediate, so they use the same stuff as the newbies but they are actually good. 3/10 are pros that spent 400$ on their gun and that remaining 1/10 are the schmucks that blow 1500 dollars on their gun, do you want to appeal to the vast majority of players or the vast minority considering that alot of these "upgrades" are pointless.

Edited by jroble95

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why would you NEED to have that, doesnt cyma have the same(maybe better, I wouldnt know) internals for less than half the price. Also I think that that durability is overkill as all you need is some cheapo pot metal and its already drop and throw proof.

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I was refferring to use, if you charge a LiPo to 40% and you don't know about it(which is going to happen, sorry) its gonna be damaged my dude. Damaging is what makes them suck at holding charges which in turn damages them more as they would lose charge after a while.

 

You need to speak from experience JR...I have partially charged MANY of my Lipos and they are still square and not puffy. Your experience is obviously gleaned from snippets off the net. It will NOT hurt the LIPO unless you Over discharge them - period.

 

 

Damaging is what makes them suck at holding charges which in turn damages them more as they would lose charge after a while. Also, pretty much any NiMH can take atleast 5 mis charges as my tenergy is working fine, yes that brand you hate outperforms LiPos twice its price. Also, quantity beats quality generally in the world of "combat"(I wouldn't know any less cheesy names) Because I'd rather have more players with that stuff than less with your stuff.

 

Your looking in the wrong place if you think LIPO cost 2X more than a NIMH. My 2600mah (brick) LIPO cost me 10.00 and would bury performance of any of your Tenergy NIMH packs. Both in linear voltage output and longevity in shot count. I think think that is a Trifecta! Price, quantity and quality.

 

A Tenergy 9.6V - 18.00

 

https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-1600mAh-Butterfly-Connector-11423/dp/B001LGW32A

 

2S 2600NIMH - 10.00

 

http://palcosports.com/amp-tactical-7-4v-2600mah-mini-style-high-discharge-lipo-battery.html

Sadly Palco is gone.

 

But, you can find a comparible at Hobby King for less

 

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-2200mah-2s-30c-lipo-pack.html

 

And at Hobby Partz too for less

 

 

Also, overcharging=/=topping off, you have a 80 dollar charger and I don't, I can mess up my batteries and have them still work for cheaper and you cant not use your absurdly expensive charger to charge LiPos, what do you reccomend? 12 year olds that are getting into the sport to blow 40 bucks+100 bucks from their gun or 20 bucks+100 because nobody is willing to do that at that point and nobody should be willing to do that as there isn't much of an advantage of 25 rps over 12 unless you enjoy wasting money buying the equipment you require for that, then babying that equipment if your bank account runs dry and you cant afford a stupid charger that costs as much as a gun.

No, I do NOT have an $80.00 Charger. I have a $120.00 charger,

http://www.buddyrc.com/sky-rc-imax-quattro-b6.html

 

Also I have a 7.00 charger for use at the field.

 

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-12v-2-3s-basic-balance-charger.html

 

And I have a 40.00 Charger that does both of the above.

 

None of the chargers will Mess up a battery. ANY battery...NIMH, LIPO, PB....any battery.

 

However, user ignorance will mess up a battery. A Dumb charger for NIMH Will Mess Up a Battery.

 

A new player can get into the sport for under $20.00 with a LIPO. So far you have cited No Proof that you can do it will less using a NIMH with appropriate charger.

 

Heres the laydown, I want more people to play my sport, therefore I want people to spend less so they can play. I know what the minimal budget is and so do you, so what do you think as I would guess 3/10 players are newbies, 3/10 are intermediate, so they use the same stuff as the newbies but they are actually good. 3/10 are pros that spent 400$ on their gun and that remaining 1/10 are the schmucks that blow 1500 dollars on their gun, do you want to appeal to the vast majority of players or the vast minority considering that alot of these "upgrades" are pointless.

 

You better get your facts straight before you start making any recommendations to others on what to do if you want to "help" them. Because, you have never cited facts with links. You just ramble with conjecture, and your advice...its expensive.

Edited by Guges Mk3

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Well, whats your source for LiPos? Also, I got my LiPos from amazon and other airsoft sites like 90% of people do. Also prove that your batteries work well even after overcharging them because that was my contention, I said that you need to buy an expensive charger for your battery, I never said that LiPos were expensive though. Nobody is Moneybags McGee, I still recommend NiMHs and ill state why again, they don't have a stupid failsafe that destroys the battery if you mess up once, they get kinda warm and you can fix it by sticking it in a freezer.

 

None of the chargers will Mess up a battery. ANY battery...NIMH, LIPO, PB....any battery.

Im talking about the lower priced chargers



However, user ignorance will mess up a battery. A Dumb charger for NIMH Will Mess Up a Battery.

Yeah, user ignorance can do it but user ignorance is a WHEN thing and not an IF thing. The fact is that with a budget charger like everyone has already because they don't wanna blow tons of money on their things, its still cheaper in the long run to accidentally damage NiMHs than to buy a foolproof 40-80 dollar charger. There's even a method for charging with a dumb charger and that's charge when your using the computer or any distracting "acitivity" and stick the battery on your shoulder or neck so see if it gets warm or not.

A new player can get into the sport for under $20.00 with a LIPO. So far you have cited No Proof that you can do it will less using a NIMH with appropriate charger.

Just because they can doesn't mean they should, I already layed out the case on 8.4/9.6 vs 7.4/11.1 and why LiPos are downgrades for regular use, read the bit above this as thats the refutation to the next thing.

You better get your facts straight before you start making any recommendations to others on what to do if you want to "help" them. Because, you have never cited facts with links. You just ramble with conjecture, and your advice...its expensive.

What facts do I not have straight? Also, I cant seem to access hobbyking, does that charger actually work as a non dumb charger or is it a pointless buy?

 

You need to speak from experience JR...I have partially charged MANY of my Lipos and they are still square and not puffy. Your experience is obviously gleaned from snippets off the net. It will NOT hurt the LIPO unless you Over discharge them - period.

Personal experience is not a viable source of information unless you can prove that you had that experience but then it isn't personal experience, it's not even a sample size of 1000 people, you didn't run an experiment, you are just detailing what you remember about happening and it has been proven that memory is an unreliable source of information. What I get off the net is generally information that contradicts eachother, self advertizing and stupid people that don't understand things. I'm talking about cheaper chargers btw.

Edited by jroble95

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