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yayapfool

HPA conversion questions

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I'm currently doing research to finalize my long-overdue plans of converting my Tanaka rifle to use HPA.

There's plenty of information out there for me to chug along alright, but I always make a point of coming here to other airsoft snipers to gather sage opinions in hopes of making the optimal choices with zero regret or second-guessing.

I have a lot of options in front of me it seems, and I'd like to get much better acquainted with them in every respect.

 

Some questions in my mind include:

Should I simply buy the necessary individual parts and build the rig, or purchase something more pre-built?

What is necessary, and what is optional?

How can I build the absolute smallest rig possible?

What key aspects of HPA rigging should I focus on- what is a gimmick and what is performance-related?

 

At this stage, I'm somewhere between capable of converting to HPA successfully, and fully understanding the matter at hand and all the nuances.

I would like to become more educated. I apologize if this post seems a bit vague, and that I could educate myself further with Google-ing alone, but it's hard to ignore the reality that the most ideal resource available to me on this subject is other airsoft snipers who've gone through the exact situation I am currently in.

I tend to stay on the vague side in hopes of eliciting the most information plausibly reasonable.

 

Some very specific questions I have:

About how many shots can I get out of a 13 cubic inch tank? (I understand this may vary drastically)

Are there tanks smaller than 13 cubic inch- about how many shots would they provide?

Around what PSIs would I be using to fire between 400 and 600-800 FPS [assuming .2g BB]? (I'm only curious about extremely high power output for testing range limits on targets- I also understand my bucking would be in danger by pushing the limits of power)

Am I correct in thinking the gauge on an HPA tank is part of a regulator? Am I correct in thinking that this gauge depicts the PSI pressure inside the tank and that when it falls below the final output of your regulator, you will not fire?

Am I correct in thinking some (or all?) airsoft HPA builds require two regulators- one on the tank, with another super low pressure (SLP?) regulator for reasonable power output?

Where are trusty outlets for buying the necessary parts?

What pre-builds are worth purchase?

 

Are there any other valuable resources such as the following which I should read?

http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/topic/127562-constructing-an-air-rig-56k-death/

http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/44-others/10925-ultimate-kjw-m700-upgrade-guide.html

http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/32-general-sniper-talk/9841-airsoft-gases-external-gas-rigs.html

 

Again, apologies if these seem like silly questions; feel free to hit me with a rolled up newspaper by simply posting a link to more information for me to read over :)

 

Thanks for any help!

Edited by yayapfool

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Am I correct in thinking the gauge on an HPA tank is part of a regulator? Am I correct in thinking that this gauge depicts the PSI pressure inside the tank and that when it falls below the final output of your regulator, you will not fire?

Am I correct in thinking some (or all?) airsoft HPA builds require two regulators- one on the tank, with another super low pressure (SLP?) regulator for reasonable power output?

 

The gauge screws into the regulator which screws into the tank. Typically that gauge will show the pressure in the tank, as the tank regulator will often have a fixed output pressure.

 

Tank pressure dropping below the regulator output pressure will most likely cause a drop in muzzle velocity and slow/incomplete cycling before the gun fails to fire entirely.

 

The number of regulators you need is purely governed by the pressure you need at the output and the availability of the hardware to get you there. The two-regulator setup is common because tank regulators that output ~800psi are common, as are the easily-adjustable paintball regulators that can bring that down to 0-150psi.

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The gauge screws into the regulator which screws into the tank. Typically that gauge will show the pressure in the tank, as the tank regulator will often have a fixed output pressure.

 

Tank pressure dropping below the regulator output pressure will most likely cause a drop in muzzle velocity and slow/incomplete cycling before the gun fails to fire entirely.

 

The number of regulators you need is purely governed by the pressure you need at the output and the availability of the hardware to get you there. The two-regulator setup is common because tank regulators that output ~800psi are common, as are the easily-adjustable paintball regulators that can bring that down to 0-150psi.

 

So the gauge is indeed a sort of indicator of how much air is left- because pressure will decrease every shot?

Makes sense; I've gathered similar information on tank regulator output and the goal of 0-150/200 PSI, etc. In an ideal world, I would have a very small tank, with only one regulator (and maybe a QD/slide-check combo if not too bulky); do you know if it's feasible to build/buy a setup which utilizes only one regulator, while retaining optimal regulation (as I understand, power output inconsistency increases as the greater the 'amount' of regulation- such as very high PSI down to low)?

 

Thank you for responding!

Also my Scoot figuratively holo-taunts your Battle Turkey in solidarity ;)

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So the gauge is indeed a sort of indicator of how much air is left- because pressure will decrease every shot?

 

Yes, though in all likely hood you will not be able to see the gauge move much if at all on a shot-by-shot basis. The amount of air in even a small 13 CI 3000psi tank is quite large compared to the amount of air required to fire an airsoft pellet.

 

 

In an ideal world, I would have a very small tank, with only one regulator (and maybe a QD/slide-check combo if not too bulky); do you know if it's feasible to build/buy a setup which utilizes only one regulator, while retaining optimal regulation (as I understand, power output inconsistency increases as the greater the 'amount' of regulation- such as very high PSI down to low)?

 

It is totally possible from a mechanical standpoint to have and adjustable regulator that screws into the HPA tank and goes all the way down to 0-150 psi (even if you have to do it in stages). Custom Products makes such a thing (with two stage regulation. Here is the page), and though I can't personally attest to it's quality and usability, it purports to fit your criteria.

 

Keep in mind that the threads on this thing need to hold back 3000-4500 psi of air pressure, so you should thoroughly research the correct procedure for installing it.

 

 

Also my Scoot figuratively holo-taunts your Battle Turkey in solidarity ;)

 

Sorroritas? That avatar looks familiar.

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