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Guest jimbibblo

help me with my build people of airsoftforum

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Guest jimbibblo

Ok, I have a challenge for you guys. How would I fit an m140-m160(im going for an m150) in my WELL AK-12 with the cheapest upgrades, I'd like to have it last long without spending upwards of 150$.

So far I have trouble finding anything for cheap, I have a set of options but their above my price range by almost 100$.

I'm going for a DMR type build without breaking the bank lol

 

I'd like to have a piston thats fit for a 650mm barrel and .32s.

I'd like to have it last 1.5+ years until I have enough knowledge on aegs to know how to repair them properly since last time I was operating on an aeg I was replacing a barrel with a 6.02x433mm on my ak and that was hard.

 

Also, what should I do if im running with a 6.01 with those goldenball .25s if I wanted to upgrade my hopup for the best range?(different AK, its at 460 with .2s right now)

 

My list of garbage parts I somehow picked out:

 

http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/13017-lct-tune-up-M150-spring-for-airsoft-aeg-rifles-steel-alloy.aspx

http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/4391-aps-ported-polycarbonate-max-compression-piston-head-ams-cga-aeg003.aspx

http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/227-gandg-airsoft-nylon-nano-co-alloy-super-lightweight-snc-piston.aspx

http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/234-jg-r36-reinforced-version-3-full-metal-gearbox-w-steel-gears.aspx

http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/14185-lancer-tactical-ca-587-precision-steel-shims-for-gearbox.aspx

http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/8847-element-ultra-torque-short-type-airsoft-version-3-aeg-motor-acc-in0915.aspx

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=22739

The aeg I have:

http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/10427-well-d12-tactical-plastic-airsoft-fully-automatic-aeg-ak-74-wf-d12.aspx

 

the barrel I found is a 6.02x650mm, I did the math and the steel supressor would give me 228.6mm of length and the standard ak12 barrel length is 415mm so I'd be getting a 643.6mm length internally. the only problem would be the supressor being too damn heavy.

so instead of weighing 3.5 pounds, with the gearbox and all the parts I'd be weighing 5 maybe 6 pounds(my 9.6 weighs 1.2 pounds, the extension weighs 1.5 pounds, the internals obviously weigh more than the original lpeg internals so I might gain a pound or two with that. I'd also like to shave off some weight by removing useless internal plastic and reinforcing it with some sort of lightweight epoxy that keeps things from breaking. I might tie a bit of paracord to the tip of the extension and secure it to the upper reciever to keep the barrel from bending if it ever does bend aswell.

Atleast it weighs like the real thing XD

 

extension: http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=11872

inner barrel: http://www.PLEASE DO NOT LINK TO EBAY SITES. COPY AND PASTE AD DETAILS HERE - THEIR ADS GO AWAY AFTER 90 DAYS/itm/6-02mm-650mm-Guarder-Tightbore-Airsoft-Barrel-PSG-1-Accrual-Length-/400985720460?hash=item5d5c9c868c:g:KhAAAOSw0JpV3ldB

 

I don't know what im missing from this list but this already seems too expensive for me.

 

this image will help you:

wait For The soup

Edited by jimbibblo

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cant tell if satire orrrrrr

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Guest jimbibblo

Does that even use a standard V3 gearbox?

yes, yes it does, the only problem I would get would be with the fire selector.

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Guest jimbibblo

Not possible...

how so, the strain is only on the gearbox and any strain on the gun itself could be fixxed, and it would wear just like a normal gun with an m190 would if I would put a 150 in it

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Guest jimbibblo

I also read the holy grail of dmrs and it looks like I'll have to do shittons of math. I'll try to put it here I guess, I also noticed that I cant see images on it, could I get screenshots of it? cause all I see is the image icon thing.
so with the volume balancing, my barrel volume is 3005mm*.28=841.4 (changed my mind, I should be able to fit a 6.01x500mm barrel in that thing.)
and because a good starting figure is 1:1.7 barrel to cylinder volume, 841.4*1.7=1430.38 so my range should be somewhere around there.

http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/43-longrange-aegs/892-holy-grail-building-your-dmr-aeg.html

"While we are on about the tappet plate I also ground about half a millimetre of the front face of the plate to enable the nozzle to press forward harder into the hop rubber, helping the seal at the hop rubber lip. You do need to be carefull not to remove the lip that the nozzle sits in/on, as this is bad, and if it looks likely that it will occur the alternative is to take some material from the gearbox, or a combination of both. [/size]"
theres that, since there is no picture for what it should look like and I cant seem to get on youtube atm ill do some more research later.
"To get the piston this far back I glue foam from a mouse mat to the front of the piston, and also to the cylinder head, in this case as on my [/size]SR25 I plan to fit it to only the piston, if it needs it, ( some will be all fancy and use sorbothane and such but I'm more bush mechanic than elitist) as this helps absorb some of the shock from the pistons forward travel and makes the gun a tad quieter as well. [/size]
Care needs to be taken when using this as you need to take into account the compression value of the foam when the spring is fitted. In the following photo the 2 black lines show the amount of compression in the foam on the front of the piston, [/size]GET THIS WRONG WHEN YOU’RE DOING THE AoE AND THE TEETH WILL STRIP!!"

so, if I were to use an old cyma ak gearbox that pulls an m100, what could I salvage from it? I don't know if the shell would withstand an m150 or not, although I have heard stories about the v3 gbox being almost invincible, to the point where it would bend slightly but only at 1.8m rounds with a high power spring.

I heard spring guides increase fps and prodice better consistent power but because of the fps increase I might need to use a weaker spring, like an m140 instead of a 150 because its like +50 fps or some shît. or start using parts that can take an m160.
also, because I don't know jack fùckin shît about mosfets, I have no clue what any of this means.
If you fit an AB MOSFET to your gearbox this then allows you to remove the Anti Reversal Latch and spring out of your gearbox, as the braking part of it will electronically brake the gearbox, using the motor, at the same position every time you pull the trigger. [/size]
The reason for the latch removal.... it will mean your gearbox will not lock up again.... ever! Combine over enthusiastic trigger use, a battery that is lacking in power and an AR latch and it could result in a lock up, at best this means releasing the spring, at worst a gearbox strip, with the AR latch removed the worst you get is a double feed! [/size]

The ultimate gearbox is by far the Pre-cocking type, the only reliable rendition of this is the TM [/size]PSG-1. It can be done to other gearboxes’, and I have done it to this very gearbox I'm rebuilding here, but it is complicated and can be unreliable in the extreme.[/size]

Theres the bit about the hopup, I'd like to be educated using pictures because im a preschooler when it comes to this and like I said, I cant see jack shît in there.

kill me


thats what it looks like. everywhere thats supposed to have an image doesnt have an image, and don't tell me to troubleshoot cause thats the shît I do every day and it doesnt work.

Also, I do know about the wider bore barrels being more accurate and having better trajectories, but I do know that a 6.02 will produce better fps without alot of strain on the gbox so it might be redundant to me, plus I need the extra fps and range because I either fight in a forest where I have to shoot through bushes I cant see through or I play on a field and engage people at maximum distances and I also have problems with moving targets so higher fps is the choice for me as I've seen that tightbores have the best range, I might migrate to a 6.05, but I don't like having a shît fps for good accuracy and I know that a barrel switch like that adds barely more inconsistency so its rather irrelevant. I might just use a 6.01 instead because my engagement distances arent extremely far and I'd like to pair that because of the extreme quietness of the barrel.

Now I can start thinking about the body, I will need to replace the stock and then rewire it because I cant deal with the eye relief on an AK because I cant aim down the sights very quickly especially with a facemask because all the stocks are too high so what I might do is find some strange black market ak stock that is super low that can handle a fencing style airsoft mesh mask. The alternative is to get a riser for my gun but I REALLY love the low profile on guns so id rather make it lower than higher really. Hell, I might even attach a camera to the scope instead and just put something that'll show where my bbs go instead for ultra fast target aqquisition.

I really like the idea of having a very light stock that can fold though because im going for a very maneuverable rifle. So I might just attach a crane stock to my gun.

If I were to try to reinforce the body, what I would do is get a keyhole type piece of metal to guide the drill and I'd buy as many screws as possible and drill them through the body of the gun, wherever the guides say there is going to be stress because I don't want my ak exploding and I think it might explode especially with the stress I might be putting into it, I might need to buy some mousepads to reduce shock and help with shaking in spacing and place some of those in stragetic places.


Questions:
How to I reduce trigger arcing while using a high voltage battery because I'd be restricted to only semi auto play.
How do I know if a fire selector can hold itself in the right spot without the selector being present?
How do I file down a mag well to take different magazines as ive heard the well AK-12 doesnt take normal ak mags and I'd like to make it take them.
How do I find cheap gear sets.

What kind of mags should I use if I want to feed goldenball .28-.36s
How much vibration comes from a 4.8 pound gun with a 150 and .28s and how much does it affect my shots even with a good trigger response time, like if I were to get a precocking mosfet thing like the burst wizard, would it shake my gun too much to take shots cause it doesnt seem like it would to me.
Could I have a super high voltage battery, like a 14.8 with 50c with a special mosfet without setting my gun on fire or producing more wear and tear even after I shim and lubricate the gearbox properly.
Where do I put the spacers in my gun to reduce vibration. Like, lateral directions, where should I put them to reduce movement without reducing function. and what material should I use?
how do I reduce the wear and tear on my piston and what should I be using for maximum durability? I like steel or titanium.
How do I polish a barrel?
If I were to add some sort of supressor, add extra heavy bbs like .36s, shim the gearbox perfectly, add an ultra high voltage battery(https://www.amazon.com/MELASTA-2200mAh-Discharge-Connector-Aircraft/dp/B01AUKW5FC), polish the internals and grease them accordingly and used the 6.01x500mm barrel, a precocking mosfet like the burst wizard, a how quiet would my aeg be? considering a 11.1 with 35c is the equivalent soundwise of an 8.4 on a gun with an m120 and a 6.02mm barrel with no mods



Now, with you guys here, how can I assemble this with the least amount of money spent while being within my parameters. This is what I needed the help with because my selection of parts have absolutely no specifications.

Edited by jimbibblo

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Guest jimbibblo

Its a WELL...it is not a platform that is upgrade-able to the speed you want it to hit.

theres no such thing as a starter brand, and the thing is all polymer. I've seen clear walmart guns upgraded to shoot .22s so how would my gun break from shooting airsoft bbs?

 

Sure, ive seen guns crack, but its pretty easy to avoid it and its only with certain low quality parts.

Anyways, I'd rather just upgrade my current AK instead of doing that :pain: to an lpeg, I'd rather just turn it into a freakishly light aeg with a normal gearbox that supports an m120+compression mods so I could hit like 425 fps with a .25 or some :pain: and I'd just replace the gearbox in my full metal AK thats meant to use high powered internals. I'd just get an ak rail mod off of amazon and attach a scope to it because the warsaw pact rail system aint compatable with any mounts for :pain: lol.

 

I think I'll have to replace the gear set, the spring(obviously) reinforce the gearbox, figure out how to do compression mods and put some teflon around the inner barrel and I'll be good. I think I might upgrade to an m155 or something while using parts made for an m160 so I would be well within the "parameters"

 

I change my mind too much, but hey, atleast its in light of gained knowledge.

Edited by jimbibblo

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Guest jroble95

still dead I guess, well anyways you cant really full stroke an m150 reliably or cheaply. I'd go and buy a brand new gun if I were you because it would be less expensive than getting all the upgrade parts for your gun. And im pretty sure your lpeg would explode on an m190 even if it was assembled correctly and it would probably kill you and everyone around you in a 100ft radius XD

Edited by jroble95

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