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How to get more distance from stock G&G CQB EBB - 100 ft right now

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I am still new to the sport having started in the fall. I just picked up a used G&G CQB EBB M4. I -think- it's a GR15 Raider and was told it is all stock internals. Got it from the second owner. I'm running a 7.4 lipo in it. It chrono's at 330-335 fps with .20's. Got it to have a CQB weapon option but we primarily play at outdoor fields that have villages. So the play is a combination of distance and up close.

 

Anyhow, this gun has a range of about 100 ft. At 100 ft the bbs hook down. If I adjust the hop-up the other way the bbs sail really high. Trying to find the happy medium to get more distance is very difficult with this gun. I will have it flattened out for a shot or two and then it goes back to the bbs dropping. Maybe that's all it's got and they are just dropping at that 100 ft mark.

 

I don't know if I shouldn't expect anything more out of it for distance and accuracy given it's a stock G&G, or if there might be an issue with the hop-up, nub or bucking. If so, what part(s) should I change? If the hop-up adjusts up and down does that mean the hop-up is doing it's job and that it could be a bucking or nub issue? If I do need to get access to that area, should I consider upgrading the inner barrel to get a bit more distance?

 

I appreciate any advice that can be shared. Thanks!

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First off, clean it. Take the bucking out and wash it in warm soapy water. Clean the barrel with alcohol wipes, or at a pinch, winter wind shield wash (just alcohol and soap solution). Make sure everything is clean and dry, put it back together and try again.

Changing the barrel won't do much for range, and if it's shooting a nice stable 330-335 then there's not much wrong with the air seal. Accuracy and frame is mostly in the hop up and the ammo. Try some decent 0.25g BBs.

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First off, clean it. Take the bucking out and wash it in warm soapy water. Clean the barrel with alcohol wipes, or at a pinch, winter wind shield wash (just alcohol and soap solution). Make sure everything is clean and dry, put it back together and try again.

Changing the barrel won't do much for range, and if it's shooting a nice stable 330-335 then there's not much wrong with the air seal. Accuracy and frame is mostly in the hop up and the ammo. Try some decent 0.25g BBs.

Thanks for the reply. I will try cleaning it as you suggested. I am using .25's in it (other than .20 for the chrono fps).

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All AEG's in your performance range should be able to hit 150' - 50 Yards with a dialed in hop-up.

 

Do the above and also tighten the adjustment wheel screw. If you have this kind that is:

 

Products81-560x374-413397.jpg

 

If that is loose, the bb hitting the arm causes the wheel to back off.

 

You can also shim the wheel and screw to make it harder to move. Or in a pinch a bit of RTV silicone or rubber cement works too. Place a dab on the back of the wheel, smear flat and let dry. Then reassemble and the "adhesive" should gum it up a bit to keep it form moving.

Edited by Guges Mk3

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All AEG's in your performance range should be able to hit 150' - 50 Yards with a dialed in hop-up.

 

Do the above and also tighten the adjustment wheel screw. If you have this kind that is:

 

Products81-560x374-413397.jpg

 

If that is loose, the bb hitting the arm causes the wheel to back off.

 

You can also shim the wheel and screw to make it harder to move. Or in a pinch a bit of RTV silicone or rubber cement works too. Place a dab on the back of the wheel, smear flat and let dry. Then reassemble and the "adhesive" should gum it up a bit to keep it form moving.

Thanks Guges. I will take a look at that too when I take it apart. It doesn't feel loose when adjusting it, but perhaps it's backing off so will make sure it's tight when re-assembling.

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If you take the wheel off you should find an O ring behind it that is supposed to supply enough fiction to stop it moving. These do go flat in time and stop gripping. Any car spares, hydraulic or plumbers merchant should be able to supply a replacement for pennies.

Okay, good to know. Thanks for that info!

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Took it apart this evening and found that it had a black colored bucking. Bucking appeared to be in good condition. It did stick inside the hop up unit rather than coming out with the barrel when taking the barrel out and I had the hop-up all the way off. Anyhow I was able to carefully get it out. What was missing though was any type of barrel spacer. I was expecting a the brass ring (or something in it's place such as teflon tape) but nothing. There was just the c-clip and the bucking. I went ahead and just ordered a G&G green bucking as it comes complete with a spacer. We play in cold weather here and I've heard good things about it's cold weather performance. Does that sound like a good approach? I can wash and put the black one back in for now I suppose and keep the green as a backup but is a barrel spacer recommended?

 

Also, when I get the green bucking should I replace the nub or just leave the current one? I can see one is present in the hop-up unit currently, but don't know if there is something I should be checking for it's condition.

 

Something I found in separating the upper and lower receiver is that there was no spring for the charging handle. This is an EBB style AEG, is it okay to just leave that charging handle without a spring?

 

On the barrel cleaning, I know some prefer silicone and some prefer alcohol. If going with alcohol is denatured alcohol okay? I have that readily available to me.

 

Thanks to everyone for the assistance!

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Do not put silicone anywhere near your barrel! Alcohol is the best choice as it won't leave a residue that can contaminate the bucking. Denatured alcohol is perfect as it has had contaminants and water removed. Use something lint free as a cleaning swab so nothing is left in the barrel.

Sounds good. Thanks! Any thoughts on the missing barrel spacer? I will have a new one coming with the new bucking, was just curious about that. Also curious if I should replace the nub as well since that new G&G green includes a new nub.

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Generally, use the supplied nub, unless its one of those stupid bits of tube. I'm a fan of an eraser nub. Easy to do, but it does mean modifying the hop arm slightly. It's a definite improvement, especially if you're using heavier ammo (ie more than 0.2g).

Okay thanks. I'll plan on replacing it when the new bucking arrives.

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G&G Green is rather old, but still good. it's just old.

 

Maple leaf Packing with matching nubs are far better.

 

Next time ask and wait for confirmation before you go and buy.

Glad to hear the G&G Green is good. I can change directions and go with the maple leaf if that is better. I can keep the other as a spare. Can you point me to the maple leaf bucking and nub you would recommend? I see there are a few options. Thank you.

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Depends on what you shoot and fps range.

 

I shoot .28g med polish Azimuth at 320 fps so I shoot a soft packing inthe 60 degree range. On a cold day I use 50 degree packing.

This is a new gun to me. It shoots 330-335 fps with .20's. I have been running .25g in my other AEGs so had planned on using that. I don't know what it chronos with .25g's but probably around 300fps. Thoughts then on suggested bucking / nub?

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Try middle of the road 60 degree or 70 degree.

 

helixairsoft has them or I can private sell you a set for 12.00 shipped for both nub and packing.

I'll purchase from you and will go with whichever you recommend. Send me a PM with where you want $ sent. Also, does it include the barrel ring spacer? My previous one didn't have one.

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They don't come with them.

 

It's something that is commonly "not sold" with the packing. Rather it is sold with the hop-up unit. This is due to the required thickness and teflon tape is used.

 

If you need one I can toss one in...but this item is not so critical on the backside. Rather a spacer in the middle or the end of the barrel is more beneficial. This is why people put an o-ring on the barrel and some barrels have a notch for this o-ring too.

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I wanted to post a follow up on this with some of my findings. I tried the Maple Leaf 75 bucking along with the Maple Leaf AST nub but the bucking lips were too long for my setup so it didn't feed properly (doing what I call the drop test the bb's would hang up in the hop-up unit). So, I put the G&G green bucking in and it fit properly, still using the ML AST nub. However, I didn't get much of an improvement in range, perhaps 10' or so. I decided to try my hand at doing a flat hop and took the original bucking that was in the gun (not sure what it is...thin and very soft compared to the maple leaf or g&g green), turned it inside out and sanded down the ridge and the mound, turned it rightside out and reinstalled 90 degrees off of where it would normally be installed. Staying with the Maple Leaf AST nub I could tell that it was an improvement but couldn't get the hop-up set. Would either dive down or sail with no happy medium. For grins I changed the nub to the cylindrical nub that came with the G&G green and wow what a difference. Staying with the flat bucking and using the G&G nub added an easy 50 ft plus to my distance. I can reach out to 160 ft with reasonable accuracy now. This gun is a stock G&G shooting about 330 fps.

 

I would have thought that a nub like the ML AST would have performed better than the G&G round nub with a flat bucking. Most flat hop write-ups I've seen people shave/sand down the bucking and then swap out the nub to one that has a flat contact patch vs round.

 

So my question to those with more experience is whether a standard cylindrical style nub will usually work well with a flat/shaved bucking, or if my situation is unusual. Many flat-hop write-ups I've seen show purchasing a special flat hop nub or making your own and potentially having to modify the hop-up arm/unit to accommodate the flat hop style nub. Perhaps there is even more potential if one can get the nub right, but this has be wondering if I should consider shaving down buckings for my other guns and trying them with their stock nubs to see if I can get some increased range without having to swap out the nubs too.

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What are you calling a "Bucking Lip"?

 

As for the Cylindrical with flat shaved. No not really what you have done now is that you have brought yourself back to the average distance of a stock AEG.

 

The Purpose of Flat/ML is to expand the contact patch to give your bb more back spin. A round nub will never do this to the effectiveness of a flat nub,

 

Your situation is not unusual with round nub and mound free packing is old tech that dates back to the 1990's. Most hop-up packing back then had no nub and it was just a rubber sleeve. So what your replicating is what TM did in the last century

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What are you calling a "Bucking Lip"?

The end of the bucking where it tapers down - the more closed end of the bucking that ends up at the end of the barrel. Those stuck out just a hair further than the other buckings. The maple leaf fit in another gun with no issue, but for some reason with the G&G it was just a tad long and the bb would hang up in the hop-up unit.

 

Yeah I realize that the distance on the G&G is now comparable to what I have on some of my other guns that have a bit more fps, but for some reason even with the G&G green bucking it would only go about 120ft. Doing this old school flat hop still resulted in distance gains over what I had before.

 

Is the ML AST nub decent for use as a flat hop nub or are there some other preferred ones that can be easily used that don't require modification of the hop-up arm/unit? For some reason just couldn't get that ML nub to play nicely. I'm sure the bucking factors in too and this bucking in there right now is thin and soft.

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That is the issue with Airsoft. Nothing is made to a spec. It is made to a "guideline". On one AEG its the best fit and performance and on another its fits poorly....etc.

 

The ML Nub is better than a round nub for flat hop builds. This is only mainly due to the contact area being about 3-4 times larger.

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