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M4 Maniac

What gun should I get?

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Just some things anybody who is going to answer intelligently will need to know:

 

1) What FPS rules do you play under? Where I play it's <500 if your gun is semi only, <400 if it shoots in full auto, and <350 if I get off the couch to go play week night cqb. Nearly everywhere is different.

 

2)Accuracy is cool, I get that, Is ROF really important to you? Only one bb needs to hit the guy, and the difference between a 3 second burst that sends 30 bb's at the enemy, and one that sends 60 bb's at him doesn't seem to have a big difference. And you really need to make the sniper/aeg call (the correct answer is AEG, but I can't force you to do that)

 

3) Every gun is upgradeable, What do you want to upgrade?

 

4)Makes sense

 

5)Are you planning on using midcaps or hicaps?

 

6)That is all up to you

 

7)Ok, It needs rails. This helps.

 

8) I think this is fairly subjective, but it's good to know it's on the list for you

 

9)If it's a rifle, and not a LMG/MMG it's weight will be fine. Wear a sling

 

10) What's the tactic we want it to be useful for?

 

I use the ASG Scorpion evo. It has a quick change spring, so I set the FPS for where I'm playing. With an 11.1 Lipo battery it has a ROF of about 17 RPS. I've had it for about a year, and it seems durable enough, but it has fairly complex internals, and hasn't been on the market very long, so it's to soon to tell how long it will last. There are only 2 magazines available, a 70 round midcap and a 320 round hi cap. I can fit 2 mid caps into an AK double pouch which uses 2 collums of Molle on my battle belt. It has rails, and I find it comfortable. It weighs 2.4 kilo's. I like it for it's compact size, which makes it good when I'm crawling through the ferns and blackberry. It retails for $400 in the USA. I like it.

 

If money was really not an issue for me, I would either get an E&L AK or a Krytak m4 varient, and send it brand new to http://umbrellaarmory.com/ and tell them to do everything, including dual sector gears. It would be the equivalent of buying a brand new mercedes, and then ripping out the engine to put a custom built one in, money spent to achieve a very small gain,

 

My question with these type of threads are :If you are committed enough to airsoft to not care how much you spend, you must of played for a while. How have you played for any length of time without having a mental list of guns you want to own at some stage?

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Really...you are making it way to complicated.

 

First thing you should do is to pick a platform that appeals to you. From there we can assist you in your needs.

 

Example: I have a Mutt G&P. Made from 2 AEG's and an aftermarket stock.

 

On a 7.4V 2S Lipo I hit 25rps and hammer bbs consistently at 398fps. Sight wise its ugly...but I don't care. It's reliable, shoots 2fps under field limits (my area) and is consistently accurate at 80 yards with .28g bbs.

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Just some things anybody who is going to answer intelligently will need to know:

 

1) What FPS rules do you play under? Where I play it's <500 if your gun is semi only, <400 if it shoots in full auto, and <350 if I get off the couch to go play week night cqb. Nearly everywhere is different.

 

2)Accuracy is cool, I get that, Is ROF really important to you? Only one bb needs to hit the guy, and the difference between a 3 second burst that sends 30 bb's at the enemy, and one that sends 60 bb's at him doesn't seem to have a big difference. And you really need to make the sniper/aeg call (the correct answer is AEG, but I can't force you to do that)

 

3) Every gun is upgradeable, What do you want to upgrade?

 

4)Makes sense

 

5)Are you planning on using midcaps or hicaps?

 

6)That is all up to you

 

7)Ok, It needs rails. This helps.

 

8) I think this is fairly subjective, but it's good to know it's on the list for you

 

9)If it's a rifle, and not a LMG/MMG it's weight will be fine. Wear a sling

 

10) What's the tactic we want it to be useful for?

-Shearer

 

OK, I'll narrow it down to an AEG, and there are no FPS rules where I play. I want both the internals and the externals to be upgradeable -- it should (as in, 'must unless it severely damages the other criteria') be able to get sights/scopes*. Fine, the ROF isn't that important, but it should be decent for an AEG. Preferably hicaps, but the capacity importance varies with the ROF -- higher ROF, more capacity. I am looking for a gun that will be able to keep me alive against anywhere from 1-6 people, some of whom might have the advantages of surprise and the higher ground. The tactics are the following:

  • Must be able to use as a stand-alone weapon, such as in 1+ vs. me,
  • We (me and my airsoft buddies) play in a semi-muddy, semi-swampy forest in the back of my pasture-it's around 7 acres of nature-trees, hills, swamps, and mud,
  • I'm an aggressive player, but I know when to attack and when to retreat, and;
  • We're not always in a group, and not always even in pairs, but we do communicate in-battle when we can.

*This is added because my current Firepower F4-D has a 'fake-scope' (in other words, a stupid real-scope eliminator) that holds 500 BBs but makes attaching a scope impossible.

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First things first. No gun will make you a better player. The only thing that will keep you 'alive' is you.

If you're playing with a few mates in kind of one on one situations then ROF is pretty pointless. Semi auto trigger response and range/accuracy are good friends.

Although there are no fps limits, keep your maximum fps to around 400, both for safety and because there's not really any point in going higher with regards to range and reliability of .

You say you want to upgrade. What is your tech experience? If it's good then build something from bits. If it is low then just buy a Krytac. You'll out range pretty much anything else, you can hang as many external upgrades on it as you like, don't touch the internals or you'll ruin it.

Basically you're massively overthinking this. Any 'proper' airsoft gun is going to hugely out perform the $50 toy you have at the moment.

And whatever you get, buy decent ammo to go with it. At least 0.25g and preferably 0.28-0.3g. This will dramatically improve range and accuracy if the hop up can lift them properly.

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First things first. No gun will make you a better player. The only thing that will keep you 'alive' is you.

If you're playing with a few mates in kind of one on one situations then ROF is pretty pointless. Semi auto trigger response and range/accuracy are good friends.

Although there are no fps limits, keep your maximum fps to around 400, both for safety and because there's not really any point in going higher with regards to range and reliability of .

You say you want to upgrade. What is your tech experience? If it's good then build something from bits. If it is low then just buy a Krytac. You'll out range pretty much anything else, you can hang as many external upgrades on it as you like, don't touch the internals or you'll ruin it.

Basically you're massively overthinking this. Any 'proper' airsoft gun is going to hugely out perform the $50 toy you have at the moment.

And whatever you get, buy decent ammo to go with it. At least 0.25g and preferably 0.28-0.3g. This will dramatically improve range and accuracy if the hop up can lift them properly.

Can I get an A-Men?

 

I take it you are not in the US if you have no FPS limits. However, you bought s Firepower F4-D so you must be in North America somewhere...well maybe France or Western EU.

 

Do, what Hangtight says...stay in the 400fps range. However, Capacity has no bearing on ROF. YOu can put a 40 Round mag on a high ROF AEG and you can put on a 600 round mag on the same AEG. I think you are thinking about the gravity feed system on your F4-D. Real AEG's are nothing like that. They do not use gravity feed.

 

Watch this video:

 

Survival has nothing to do with the tool. Its the user (as cited above in the statement about "skill")

 

Krytac in stock form has the better range on average...but its not tops.

 

Better yet...what is your budget?

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As stated above, I'm budget-less, and I'm an extremely tech-savvy guy. I know how to solder, build circuits, and have a license for Ameuter Radio, which has a 1000-question question pool all about circuitry, soldering, electrical safety, etc.

 

But I haven't ever built an airsoft gun from scratch, so I'd appreciate it if someone could teach me a bit.

Edited by M4 Maniac

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Building a gun from scratch is fraught with issues. Although parts are supposed to be compatible the chances are they won't quite work together and you'll spend days trying to solve a feeding issue only to find you change one component and everything is fine. You're a lot better off buying something you like the look of, with decent externals that works in the first place and then upgrading in increments. That way if something goes wrong you can simply put back the old parts and you still have a working gun. You'll also learn exactly what difference individual upgrades make, and more importantly the problems they can cause but you'll only ever be chasing one problem at a time.

First chose your platform. If you want a good choice of external upgrades off the shelf then that tends to point towards M4 or AK. Then start with realistic expectations of what you can achieve. Due to my local field limits I aim for 330-350fps,a sensible fire rate of around 20rps,a nice snappy trigger response and 70m range with enough accuracy to hit a torso size target.

Next is power source. This will dictate your choice of motor and gearing to get the ROF and trigger response. I choose 7.4v Lipo (25C) for cost, efficiency and because it gives me real flexibility on where I can put the battery. You have the choice of skinny little ones that'll fit in a buffer tube, brick shapes that'll fit in a stock. Some Crane stocks have tubes big enough for the buffer tube batteries which means you can run two in parallel which gives you a big current overhead and enough capacity to shoot all day without a battery change.

I like to use a high torque motor with 13:1 gears to get my ROF and trigger response, but I've used torque /speed motors on stock gearing to get almost exactly the same results.

A basic Mosfet will save your trigger contacts and make the power system more efficient. Deans connectors will minimise the resistance in the current path.

A decent 6.03 barrel (I like Prometheus), R hop (don't buy patches, get a couple of feet of EPDM auto hose, 6mm id and 9mm od and learn to cut your own), flat eraser nub and some careful hop tuning will get you the range. Port the cylinder to the correct volume to suit the barrel.

An the gearbox properly for maximum efficiency, reliability and quietness.

But do these mods one at a time, then you'll learn what they do and how to get them right.

Edited by Hangtight

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Then start with an Asian G&P. They build their components to Mil-Spec (of which I have several of their item on my real AR's) unlike the other brands that kinda build them to "some" spec.

 

I have a box of G&P components (Parted Asian Models, cheaper than importing individual pieces) that I can start you with on your next endeavor.

Edited by Guges Mk3

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