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hellion_blade

G36 locked up for 2 years

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Last time I played Airsoft my G36 locked up right at the beginning of the game. This game was about 2 years ago. I moved around a lot but now I'm settled. I haven't been too interested in playing again until recently so I decided to finally get this thing apart and fix it. I was running an 11.1 lipo on a stock Echo 1 G36 variant. Usually I only ran it in semi but we played our first game in full auto. my gun was broken in less than 2 minutes lol.

 

Anywho, I get no power to the motor when I use the regular trigger/selector plate assembly(whatever you want to call all these contact points) because they got hot as :pain: and melted some of the assembly's plastic all over itself. I can get the motor to turn by touching the now-loose contacts while a battery is connected. Probably just going to invest in a mosfet since I have a prefer lipo batteries anyways.

 

Internals are not all destroyed but the piston/cylinder assembly is wrecked lol. the piston head was separated from the piston, the cylinder head nozzle is bent a little, the piston's head sided tooth is shattered and laying around in pieces.

 

What I know I need:

Piston

Cylinder Head

a how-to on a fix for the trigger so it'll make a circuit again.

 

 

afa the compression parts I was considering just picking up this.
http://www.evike.com/products/54604/

http://www.evike.com/products/54590/

 

Whats the difference between the pom/mushroom heads performance wise? is one better than the other?

 

I want to get this thing shooting at about 390-400. I want to say it was like 346 or so before.

 

Can I get some input from a few of you guys on what I should bother to do here? I'm not worried about saving every penny but I don't want to spend too much more than 100 bucks to get it working again.

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If you want, look up some videos so you can determine yourself. From what I have seen, the mushroom minimally decreases the sound of the piston head hitting the sorbothene. Im not to sure if it any better at air ventilation though. I would stick with the POM. Also make sure that cylinder head fits in your gearbox. I have the JG varient which is similar to the Echo 1 and that cylinder head with the big forehead would not fit.

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I ended up ordering about 5 parts. I bought:

 

-a gate nanoHARD something or other MOSFET

-an aluminum "upgrade" cylinder head

-SHS 15 tooth lightened piston

-Hawk Arms Tecaform piston head

-an inexpensive flash hider since I didn't have anything on my G36's muzzle at all.

 

Jesus christ, the cylinder head was a huge pain in the :censored2: to get into the cylinder. before trying to get it in, I was cleaning the inside of the cylinder with a cloth and felt something snagging. The inside wall of the cylinder was scratched and scuffed up. I smoothed it out with my rotary tool but I don't think its safe to use. I'm worried the integrity of the inside wall will fail as soon as the gearbox starts cycling.

 

I ordered another piston head and one piece cylinder/cylinder head so those should show up sometime next week. If I end up trying it with the old cylinder at least I'll have a new piston head in case the one that already arrived up gets destroyed.

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#1 this came with the stock piston. the stock spring "hooked" around it with #3

 

#2 is the new pistonhead hardware. should I/can I cut #3 so it presses against the hardware evenly? Should I just order a new spring? (and guide while I'm at it?)

AA0eGYS.jpg

Edited by Hellion_Blade

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You can cut #3 so that it pushes flat against it. When doing that, you can remove #1 from the gun completely.

I second that. Make sure you file a little where you cut it so it sits flat like airbourne said. Out of curiosity what kind of cylinder head did you order? Also that spring is really decompressed... your G36 has been in the locked position for 2 years, so I really recommend you get a M110 if you want to balance rate of fire and FPS. You will really get a crazy rate of fire with a >350 FPS spring with stock motor and 11.1v lipo (just sayin)

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I second that. Make sure you file a little where you cut it so it sits flat like airbourne said. Out of curiosity what kind of cylinder head did you order? Also that spring is really decompressed... your G36 has been in the locked position for 2 years, so I really recommend you get a M110 if you want to balance rate of fire and FPS. You will really get a crazy rate of fire with a >350 FPS spring with stock motor and 11.1v lipo (just sayin)

I ended up ordering a one piece cylinder/cylinder head. I just figured there'd be no room for compression loss between the cylinder and cylinder head if they're all one piece.

 

Cylinder: http://www.evike.com/products/51728/

I lost my anti-reversal latch spring so I was looking at what else I could buy to make the shipping cost on a 1 dollar item worth the money without going crazy lol. I'll probably order a new spring.

Could an M110 get me to 375-400 FPS with .2s? I wanna run as heavy a round for outdoor as I can to get better range and consistency. I'm also considering just getting a couple 7.4v batteries so I don't have to worry too much about full auto wrecking my gun with the 11.1v. I'd probably still use the 11.1v for semi-only fields and games.

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Why did you buy that abomination? Just get a cylinder that's correctly ported, an MP5 type cylinder should be close. A correctly rated M120 shouldn't give much more than 400 FPS, unless it's extra compressed by bearings at both ends. That's what I like about Guarder springs, so far they've given me very close to their rated power, usually a bit above, but once they wear in it's pretty much right on the money.

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I would get the highly acclaimed Guarder spring as well. And yes, that cylinder/head combo is not ideal, especially buying from Matrix (just look at the reviews), Your best bet would be to get these:

Cylinder: https://www.evike.com/products/63338/

Cylinder Head: http://www.clandestineairsoft.com/cylinder-heads-c-1_6_19/shs-g36-cylinder-head-long-p-44.html (its cheaper here even with shipping than Evike), but here is Evike if you want it https://www.evike.com/products/35206/

Anti-reversal: https://www.evike.com/products/59380/

Spring: https://www.evike.com/products/71680/

I picked out the cheapest yet quality (at least I think) parts from Evike since that is what you seem to be ordering from. This should put you near 375 FPS with 0.2g.

 

If you want to push towards 400 FPS, I'd invest in a torque motor as well.

Edited by Ninjabro637

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my bad. I just thought the one piece cylinder and head would be better because that's one less air seal to deal with. Also the bad reviews were morons buying a version 3 part for a version 2 gearbox lol. I saw that and decided they weren't to be taken seriously. I still have the stock AR latch. just the spring is missing so thats only a buck. going to order the rest of the items you recommended though. :a-thumbsup:

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The thing is that if the cylinder isn't an exact fit into the gearbox shell you're in for a whole night of filing. It's also very easy to get the cylinder head to seal to the cylinder, most of the time the o-rings on the cylinder head will seal 100%. I've found that the two most common places for major air leaks is between the piston head and cylinder and between the air nozzle and hop-up bucking.

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Adding to the point Lefse made, I also noticed you don't have a upgrade air nozzle. Does yours have an 'o' ring? I use the SHS G36 one that works great. Also if you are getting that SP110, you will need a good torque motor since you will be pushing close to 400 FPS. How much is your budget?

 

Those reviews may mention a V2 gearbox but that shouldn't make a difference. Only compression related difference I have seen between a V2 and V3 is the is the length of air nozzle and length of cylinder head tube. I switch out parts all the time b/w them. Those reviews blame the cylinder head tube being thick and the big "forehead" if you will. I have yet to encounter a V3 with that big forehead cylinder head design.

 

Only reason they even have different cylinder heads is to maximize the length of the tube to match the air nozzle for maximum airflow. Hence why the G36C air nozzle is longer, and has a longer cylinder head tube. If you look at a JG Ak47 for example it has a shorter length cylinder head tube and and air nozzle, kinda like an M4. It all depends how the gun's specific hop up is designed. You see my point?

 

Going to what you said earlier you may need a spring guide because Im sure your stock one is plastic. If not no need to replace it. http://www.clandestineairsoft.com/spring-guides-c-1_6_13/shs-aluminum-and-stainless-steel-v3-spring-guide-p-740.html This guide has worked flawless with an M110 in my G36.

Edited by Ninjabro637

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Yeah that makes sense about the cyl head tube and nozzle length. youd never get a good seal if the nozzle didnt reach the hop up. The stock nozzle does not have an o ring and is made of plastic. Should I look for an aluminum one with an o ring?

 

The forehead thing on the cyl head theyre talking about fits a certain way into the gearbox shell. The one piece cylinder and head already arrived and it fits great. I was just worried that I wouldn't get any air into the cylinder without a port.

 

Also the stock spring guide is metal. Looks like brass or something. Its a dull golden color.

 

Idk how much motors typically cost. Im not saying I cant afford to buy one but I don't want to spend unnecessarily. Mind recommending 2 or 3 price points?

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Yeah that makes sense about the cyl head tube and nozzle length. youd never get a good seal if the nozzle didnt reach the hop up. The stock nozzle does not have an o ring and is made of plastic. Should I look for an aluminum one with an o ring?

 

The forehead thing on the cyl head theyre talking about fits a certain way into the gearbox shell. The one piece cylinder and head already arrived and it fits great. I was just worried that I wouldn't get any air into the cylinder without a port.

 

Also the stock spring guide is metal. Looks like brass or something. Its a dull golden color.

 

Idk how much motors typically cost. Im not saying I cant afford to buy one but I don't want to spend unnecessarily. Mind recommending 2 or 3 price points?

Yes you should get this nozzle, it works great in my JG G36. http://www.clandestineairsoft.com/shs-nozzles-c-1_6_75_77/shs-aluminum-g36-oring-nozzle-2432mm-p-26.html

 

If the spring guide is metal and in good shape then leave it as is.

 

If your little cylinder + cylinder head combo is fitting then a +1 for you. No work needed there. Only concern is that you have no port so you may even go past 400 FPS since your gun will start compressing as soon as that piston moves forward. If thats ok with you, just continue using that, since it may even allow you to use a .25g BB instead of .2g without a major FPS loss for even greater accuracy and range depending on your hop up. I used the stock 3/4 cylinder on my G36 with improved seals and air nozzle that gave me 390 FPS last time I checked. Imagine that boost with your SP110.

 

As for the motor, there are no Dream army ones I could find. I would recommend one these depending on how much you are willng to spend.

$30 motor http://www.brillarmory.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=39_65&products_id=186

$50 motor http://www.clandestineairsoft.com/motors-c-1_6_10/lonex-titan-a3-short-blue-high-speed-motor-p-275.html

 

You also said you will use a 7.4v lipo, so that will be ideal if you had your stock motor and spring. Only problem is that you wanted to shoot close to 400 FPS, therefore you need a higher level spring, and a motor to support that spring. You may as well do performance/durability upgrades while you have the aeg open, right?

Edited by Ninjabro637

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Nozzle o-rings is to compensate for sloppy manufacturing.

 

Many makers have tight tolerances where these o-rings are not needed and in some cases hampers proper functionality with no benefit to compression. I cite TM AEG's and KWA's...where O-rings did nothing but retard the action of the mechbox.

 

Before you fully employ a nozzle with an o-ring in it. Make sure is slides easy with no binding...and by easy I mean put it on the nozzle and it sticks. But with a flick of the wrist it flies off. If it doesn't...its too tight.

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Nozzle o-rings is to compensate for sloppy manufacturing.

 

Many makers have tight tolerances where these o-rings are not needed and in some cases hampers proper functionality with no benefit to compression. I cite TM AEG's and KWA's...where O-rings did nothing but retard the action of the mechbox.

 

Before you fully employ a nozzle with an o-ring in it. Make sure is slides easy with no binding...and by easy I mean put it on the nozzle and it sticks. But with a flick of the wrist it flies off. If it doesn't...its too tight.

I agree, I've gotten surprisingly good consistency with nozzles with no o-ring in several guns, the seal between the hop-up bucking and nozzle is more critical. MY G&G M4 has the stock nozzle with no o-ring with a Lonex cylinder head and it has very consistent muzzle velocity, we're talking 2-3 fps deviation at most. If you take chrono accuracy and BB tolerances into account it's barely any consistency from the nozzle at all. Same thing with my CYMA CM.048 AK-74, it had surprisingly good stock consistency, so same story there.

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I'm really hoping the o ring nozzle is just slightly tighter. If I put the stock nozzle on the stock tube it sticks to it just enough not to fall off while holding the cylinder upside down. If I put the stock nozzle on the new tube it falls right off when I hold it upside down.

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got a package from clandestine today. from them I ordered the SHS Aluminum O-ring G36 Nozzle and the SHS V3 Spring set(ARL spring was supposed to be in there). I got the nozzle and it fits great but the spring set didn't come. instead there was some other part that I don't really recognize.

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