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tetrasect

gearbox jamming/seizing problem

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Hey guys,

So I got the following upgrades for my JG G36C (v3 gearbox) today:

G&G Titan 35k motor

Ball bearing spring guide

11.1V Li-Ion battery

(it came stock with 8mm ball bearing bushings)

 

Cleaned everything up, did an awesome shim job, greased it up nicely and got the piston gliding effortlessly with some silicone spray, everything looked great... but then disaster struck!

After 1 or 2 shots it only does a half-cycle (this happens with my old battery as well) and then I have to take the gearbox apart and put it back together again. This also happens when I fire in full auto, as soon as I let go of the trigger it jams up.

I've been trying to get to the bottom of this for hours now and ended up taking the spring and piston out to test just the gears.  I noticed when using my old 8.4V Ni-MH in semi the gears always spin the same amount of time on each trigger pull but when using the Lipo the gears spin for a different amount of time on each pull.

Any ideas what is causing this and how to fix it?

I'm getting a basic smd mosfet in a few days, do you think that might help? Otherwise maybe replace the trigger switch? I'm really confused...

 

 

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LION?

Which make and model?  LION packs is all hype and very little performance.  They are not ideal for Airsoft.

How did you test shimming?

What spring are you using?  You don't need a bearing spring guide and with the wrong spring and a bearing on the piston head...it will cause biding issues.


 

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2 hours ago, Guges Mk3 said:

LION?

Which make and model?  LION packs is all hype and very little performance.  They are not ideal for Airsoft.

How did you test shimming?

What spring are you using?  You don't need a bearing spring guide and with the wrong spring and a bearing on the piston head...it will cause biding issues.


 

 

After staying up till 5 last night and continuing my troubleshooting all day I have finally fixed it. I noticed a few of the bushings were not fitting tightly in the gearbox shell and even had some play when it was all screwed together. Basically wrapped the bearings in teflon tape (huge mission), put them back in the gearbox and got rid of the excess material with sandpaper and now they fit super tight. After doing that (and obviously re-shimming) it all seems to be fine.

Getting a mosfet and an M130 spring in a few days, just hope I don't have to go through this again lol.

BTW I made my own Li-ion battery pack from 3x 18650 batteries I used to use for my vape https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?384874-Test-Review-of-Efest-IMR18650-2500mAh-(Purple)-2014 , figured it's a substantial and easy upgrade plus I have the stuff lying around already so free to boot. Wouldn't mind getting a "proper" brand name lipo but it's hard to tell if it will fit when ordering online and I don't have any stores nearby.

Edited by tetrasect

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18650 are all the same size.  However LION cells are not designed for high discharge applications.  Vape pens, flash lights and drills...yes...great for LION.  AEG's where they need a 20A draw, especially for a M130 spring with an inefficient motor and non-torque gears...a very bad choice for a power source.  And if your spring is soft on top of that...that is goinng to bog any LION.

LIPO is the discharge king when you need the amps.  LION is the capacity king and thus it is only suitable for sub-400fps AEG's with .20g bbs and your M130 is going to far exceed it's operational parameters.

Take a gander at the SME's discussing LION's v. LIPO v. LIHV.

https://www.airsoftsociety.com/threads/objective-battery-test-titan-lion-vs-kypom-lipo-vs-hv-lipo.161379/
 

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3 minutes ago, Guges Mk3 said:

18650 are all the same size.  However LION cells are not designed for high discharge applications.  Vape pens, flash lights and drills...yes...great for LION.  AEG's where they need a 20A draw, especially for a M130 spring with an inefficient motor and non-torque gears...a very bad choice for a power source.  And if your spring is soft on top of that...that is goinng to bog any LION.

LIPO is the discharge king when you need the amps.  LION is the capacity king and thus it is only suitable for sub-400fps AEG's with .20g bbs and your M130 is going to far exceed it's operational parameters.

Take a gander at the SME's discussing LION's v. LIPO v. LIHV.

https://www.airsoftsociety.com/threads/objective-battery-test-titan-lion-vs-kypom-lipo-vs-hv-lipo.161379/
 

 

The batteries I have are rated at 35A ... check the link in my last post. They are from the days of vaping before electronic power regulation came into the picture and all we had was "mech mods" which was basically a battery in a metal tube with a spring loaded trigger switch feeding power straight into the heating coil.

But yeah I agree completely and in fact I just ordered a 1500mah 20C 11.1V lipo :P Just hoping that it fits!

Also ordered bushings and a new trigger switch since it was cheap and I'm gonna be rewiring/soldering anyway when I get the mosfet. Then I decided since I'm already paying for shipping I might as well add a cut-off lever and a tappet plate to complete the set. Was gonna add a piston to the list as well but they are all out of stock so I guess I'll just have to see how long the stock one lasts.

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That is a "Max" rating. 

And the link has this note:

"This is a very high current battery, but the 35A rating might be a bit optimistic."

Continuous is the more important factor in Airsoft and that is usually 1/2 of the max rating, which put's it around 17.5A  of which your 18650 is like "most" other 2500mah cells...it's at it's operational maximum and not the best for Airsoft with a "stock" gun...now that you are looking to install a M130.  That cell is going to struggle in FA fire.

And the graph shows it...under a normal AEG discharge of 15A.  The voltage is sagging very hard at an average 3.3V per cell.  Most LIPO...won't even sweat it at that rate and is at 4.0V per cell.  And at 20A for the M130, let's say...it drops another .15V on average...that is horrendious.
 

Edited by Guges Mk3
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