Jump to content
kryptik

G36 Takedown Guide -massive, Full Color!

Recommended Posts

G36 Takedown Guide

Written by ASF.KrYpTiK

 

airsoft0039vz.jpg

 

The G36 is a very popular gun now. As this is so, I felt the urgent need to finally create a thorough takedown guide for fellow ASF members. I have been asked many times how to breakdown a G36, so here is the answer: an in-depth, full color guide on the breakdown of an airsoft masterpiece, the G36.

 

Before we start, make sure to follow a few very important precautions. First, remove the magazine so no bb’s can go into the hopup chamber. After the magazine is removed, shoot a couple of times to clear out any bb’s from the chamber. As an added precaution, always remove the battery from the gun before breakdown to avoid any “accidents”.

 

Suggested Tools:

3mm Hex Key

Philips Screwdriver

Mini Screwdriver set (optional)

Tweezers (for hopup work, optional)

 

guide255hg.th.jpg

 

The first thing that has to be done is removal of the magazine well receiver pin. This is what holds the magazine well to the receiver itself. It comprises of two pieces, the pin and the pin cap. The pin cap is threaded and screws onto the end of the pin. It uses a standard 3mm hex key.

 

g36guide0060qv.th.jpg

 

This is the magazine well pin and pin head removed. When you get the two unscrewed, they should come out easily.

 

guide794io.th.jpg

 

Now, you must remove the magazine well. To do this, you have to push forward on the magazine catch, so it is in release position. Then, pull down and out like in the photos. To put the magazine well back on, first place it on the forward axle that holds it, and the rotate it downwards.

 

 

guide10111os.th.jpg

 

Now, there are two pins that must be removed. Both are located at the rear of the receiver, but on opposite sides. Remember, when putting these back in, the flat screw goes on the left side of the gun, and the extended screw goes on the right side of the gun. They too use a standard 3mm hex key.

 

g36guide0125pb.th.jpg

 

Now, there is one final screw you must remove. You do this by folding the stock, and unscrewing it using a standard 3mm hex key.

 

g36guide0131fx.th.jpg

 

This is a picture of the three rear receiver screw removed. Notice that the long screw from the previous step has a washer (highlighted green). Do not loose this: it is a locking washer that secures this screw.

 

guide14155oq.th.jpg

 

Next, to remove the lower receiver, you must follow the two pictures above. What you must do is take your finger, and physically push the hopup unit forward. It should be easy because it is spring loaded. When that is pushed forward, continue to the next step:

 

 

guide16176lf.th.jpg

 

You must now simultaneously complete the step above, while pulling up on the receiver as show. The lower receiver should easily rotate upwards if the hopup is moved out of the way. Make sure you disconnect the wires as well.

 

g36guide0189hd.th.jpg

 

This is a picture of the lower receiver after you remove it. Use it as a reference.

 

***This is the hopup chamber breakdown portion of this guide. If you only need to get to the mechbox, skip down to the next asterisk set***

 

 

guide19214ka.th.jpg

 

I’m sure you have already done this in your time of owning the G36, but ill explain anyways. You must remove the fore-grip of the gun by easily pulling out the forward receiver pin. It is not screwed in or attached, it just pushes out. Then, just slide your fore-grip forward.

 

g36guide0228vr.th.jpg

 

Locate the three receiver screws on the outside of the gun that secures the gas chamber to the gun. Note that there is a nut at the opposite side of every bolt, so make sure not to loose either piece.

 

 

 

guide23241om.th.jpg

 

Now, use a Phillips head screwdriver to unscrew each bolt. It is highly probably that once you start initially unscrewing it, the nut at the other side will fall out. Be ready to catch it or secure it from rolling off your work-area. Also, note that the shortest of the 3 bolts is the highest up one on the receiver, the one that goes through the large scope rail system.

 

g36guide0251nv.th.jpg

 

Next, you have to pull the gas tube forward. The wire connector at the magazine well side of the gas tube may get caught on the receiver. Make sure to move it out of the way before tugging on the gas tube so you don’t cause damage to your connector.

 

g36guide0266ql.th.jpg

 

This is the entire gas tube removed. Not the hopup chamber at the right.

 

guide28304kq.th.jpg

 

Remove the hopup chamber from the gas tube by pushing forward on the hopup (the same way you did when removing the receiver) and then rotate the hopup 90 degrees. Since it is spring loaded, it should now come right out.

 

 

g36guide0311ik.th.jpg

 

Now, slide the barrel and hopup unit out of the gas chamber as shown, it should be an easy slide. If it ever gets a bit tough, spray some silicone oil on the outside of the inner barrel for smooth action.

 

g36guide0322sj.th.jpg

 

Proceed by removing the hopup clip; it should pop off easily when you apply force.

 

g36guide0338gk.th.jpg

 

Now, move the hopup dial away from the hopup chamber and slide it down the barrel.

 

g36guide0351sc.th.jpg

 

The hopup adjustment plastic newbie along with the hopup bucking should then come out easily.

 

 

Posted Image

 

Now, while rotating the barrel, pull the hopup off of the barrel. If done right, the barrel should come out with the hopup packing. If the packing gets stuck in the hopup chamber, use tweezers to pull it out.

 

Posted Image

 

These are all the hopup parts. Use this picture for reference.

 

Posted Image

 

To reinstall the hopup, put the new sleeve on the barrel (make sure the groove in the sleeve/packing matches with the groove on the outside of the inner barrel). Then, push the barrel all the way into the hopup chamber. The barrel groove should be facing downwards when sliding the barrel onto the hopup (downwards meaning the direction the hopup will be pointing when reinstalled in the gun). Now, if you have one of these, slide the small ring-washer down the barrel and just lightly push it in between the hopup and barrel. This will stabilize and “square away” the barrel.

 

Posted Image

 

Put in the hopup bucking and adjustment newbie into the hole at the top of the hopup as shown.

 

 

 

Posted Image

 

Now, slide the hopup adjustment wheel back onto the hopup. When pushing it in all the way, make sure the grooves on the inside of the adjustment wheel line up with the extension of the plastic adjustment newbie.

 

Posted Image

 

This is the finished hopup. Also, on the second picture, you can see how the hopup bucking should look when fully “on”. It should also be facing downwards, in the same direction as the barrel groove. If your hopup is perfectly perpendicular to the ground, you will get the most accurate hopup system. It is never bad to be a perfectionist here.

 

Posted Image

 

Now remount the hopup by pushing it in against the spring tension, and then rotating it 90 degrees in the opposite direction. It should then pop out a bit slightly and lock.

***This marks the end of the hopup portion, now on to the lower receiver breakdown***

 

Posted Image

 

Here are two angles of the lower receiver to be used as reference points before you start.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

guide52543vc.th.jpg

 

Start by grabbing your 3mm hex key. There is a small pin just over the trigger that locks the mechbox to the lower receiver. Push it out, it should slide fairly easily.

 

guide55575kc.th.jpg

 

Now, look at your handgrip. The handgrip plate doesn’t actually come off, but it does lock the mechbox to the lower receiver. Use a standard Phillips (it’s easier with a mini screwdriver) to unscrew these two screws.

 

g36guide0582ps.th.jpg

 

When removing the mechbox from the receiver, make sure it is set to semi-auto. I have always found that the easiest setting to remove the G36 mechbox. Semi is highlighted in blue.

 

guide59605hv.th.jpg

 

Start by pulling up on the mechbox. With a bit of fidgeting you should be able to easily pull it out. Watch, out a small piece (I actually have no idea what the use is) will fall out. It is seen in grey on the second picture. Usually it will have a spring but mine fell off. Make sure you don’t loose it; it may play a part in gearbox operation.

 

 

guide61628gt.th.jpg

 

If you don’t know how to put the piece back in, use the two pictures above as references.

 

guide63645bo.th.jpg

 

The two pictures above should also be used as references when getting ready to put the lower mechbox back in.

 

Thank you for taking the time to read this guide. If this is posted or quoted on a different forum or website, please post my nickname, KrYpTiK, as to give me credit, which would be greatly appreciated. If you have any other questions PM me or use my AIM to contact me.

 

My contact information:

 

AIM = mattbez22

 

-ASF.KrYpTiK

 

P.S. If you have any special requests for guides, PM me or AIM me and ill write one up for you.

 

 

For the larger pics, click on the image a second time in imageshack to fullsize it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If at all possible, can this be at least catalouged or stickied so it doesnt get lost? I spent wayyy too much time on this for that to happen.

Edited by KrYpTiK

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Xhado
I suppose this doesnt apply to the CA G36s eh?

those things are a beauty

 

The CA is a clone of the TM, this guide will work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest TriChrome

Kryptic, I cleaned up the post a little bit so we can fill this with information.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When Tri meant "clean up thread" he meant "I'm going to erase Kage's idiot comment that was in mid-post". LOL. Btw Kryptik...I don't personally own one, but I was wondering if you'll do an SL Takedown Guide as well?

 

I'd also like to add:

 

Please take caution when you tighten the screws on figure (3,4)...if you over tighten you can strip the screw.

Edited by KageOokami

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I would if I have one. Its basically the exact same thing aside from the stock dismounting.

 

Ok. Let me know if you make any more guides regarding G36's and such. Thanks for the guide, really in detail, pictures were awesome.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yup, I will be doing a v3 mechbox guide soon, which is directly tied with this guide.

 

And....the pictures are what a $1500 camera gets you (I didnt buy it, its the "family's") :a-cool:

Edited by KrYpTiK

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The CA is a clone of the TM, this guide will work.

 

Just a little note about that, to take out the screw in the mag well in the CA, you use a 2.5mm hex screw(that's the way it worked in mine at least).

 

Great guide, just disassembled my CA36 using it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just a little note about that, to take out the screw in the mag well in the CA, you use a 2.5mm hex screw(that's the way it worked in mine at least).

 

Great guide, just disassembled my CA36 using it.

the only thing different thing about this that I see is that, for the gearbox this part...

 

Now, there is one final screw you must remove. You do this by folding the stock, and unscrewing it using a standard 3mm hex key.

 

IPB Image

 

This is a picture of the three rear receiver screw removed. Notice that the long screw from the previous step has a washer (highlighted green). Do not loose this: it is a locking washer that secures this screw.

 

You only need to remove the long screw to remove the gearbox.

I found out that after threading one of the side screws from taking it in and out too much...

I have taken my entire CA36C apart since I got it...Broken...

Fixed it though... Pissed me off...

my first airsoft gun too...

took me all night to figure everything out...

no guides no nothing...

just me, my tools, and my time...

and my anger of course...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Xhado
Wow nice job. And will this work with the Ca G36C?

Didnt bother reading the thread did you?

 

The CA is a clone of the TM, this guide will work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't want to step on any toes, since I'm a newbie, but until you get your mechbox tutorial up, here is a decent one that someone else linked to in a different thread:

 

http://www.airsoftretreat.com/reviews/show...t=67&cat=49

 

A note about the CA G36C mechbox -

 

-it comes with a brass spring guide

-it has some sort of plastic ported piston head

-it has a single seal plastic cylinder head

-it has an air seal nozzle

-it has a polycarb piston with a metal first tooth

 

I broke the gun open tonight with the help of your guide (thanks!).

 

I replaced the piston head, the spring, and the spring guide, but didn't buy a nozzle or a piston... and I'm glad I didn't... not by plan, but it turned out. :a-thumbsup:

Edited by ryball

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not that the guide that you linked is v2, I'm working on a v3, and then a v2 afterwards which will be like this one, which I don't want to brag about, but it DOES have the highest quality and quantity of pictures I have yet to see in a guide.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is a great guide. Coupled with the one that ryball posted, which will have to hold me over until you finish yours, I finally have the confidence to take a peek inside my gun.

 

A friend of mine volunteered to do my upgrades and it's making me a little nervous. This way I can at least crack it open after he is finished and inspect his work.... I just hope he knows how to shim correctly.

 

Keep up the good work! :a-thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great guide Kryptic, I tookdown my C for the first time today. :a-grin: Just waiting for the V.3 gear box guide. :a-wink: I want to be able to install stuff myself so I don't have to pay other people to do it for me. BTW that little grey piece is the bolt release, but for the airsoft version it's purely cosmetic.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...