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StealthKillerHamster

'how To' Guide For Tanaka Rifle Upgrading.

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Just to start off, I would like to state that I am making this purely as a instructionary guide, at the request of several users, to help others achieve the accuracy and consistency I have in my M40A1. I am attempting to make this as complete as possible so it may take several days and posts for me to finish it. Once it is done I will edit into one large post of information and pictures.

 

 

Part 1.

Here is a list of what aftermarket parts I have for my M40A1:

 

Dees Customs 6.01 645mm tightbore barrel.

Best Gun Hopup/Nozzle Kit.

Creation Steel Part 91.

Retapped female threads of barrel anchor.

 

 

(Yes, I know, its a small list but that's what home upgrades are for.)

 

Heres a list of at home fixes that I have done to make my consistency and accuracy what they are:

 

Created 2 metal shims which are epoxy'd to the magazine housing to create a better seal from magazine to bolt.

Installed a slightly stronger spring on the magazine's gold knob to create better magazine to bolt seal.

Silicon Sealed magazine's o-rings to insure a consistant, no-leak seal.

electrical taped inner barrel under locking brass lug to limit excess movement and center barrel

centered Best Gun hopup rubber on barrel

placed 2 1mm thick shims to anchor on barrel

teflon taped all screws and end of hopup system on inner barrel

and a couple more small adjustments

 

While this does not seem like much, realize that with propper ammo, I am able to achieve 3/4" to 1/2" 4 shot groupings at about 90' and a max effective range of about 280 to 300 feet.

 

Most of this is all trial and error and takes many, MANY hours to fine tune and create a stable platform, but once it is done, you will have a newfound feeling of resolution and knowledge of your rifle, knowing what works and what doesn't and how to fix it when something goes wrong.

Edited by Stealth Killer Hamster

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Thanks a lot, it would also be good to note any purchasable alternatives to any of your home-made modifications, and also your wish list.

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Part 2

Okay to begin my guide I would like to start with just the basics. You have a Tanaka M40A1, M700, or M24 rifle (mine was pre ban) either post or pre ban.

IMG_0039.jpg

 

To define the difference, pre ban is the open nozzle that does not inhibit gas flow from the magazine through the bolt and out the barrel, whereas with the new energy power laws in Japan, the Post-ban have a restrictor inside the nozzle that inhibits the power to around 400 fps with green gas, but that can be bored out using a drill press and get the fps back up to around 550.

 

To first work on a gun, you must first understand your gun. In a Tanaka rifle, the gun travels though a vent in the mag when the impact plate is hit and the gas travels through the bolt and out of the nozzle. Some bolts are PCS, or Power Control System, bolts that allow for the manual alternations to power and gas flow by tightening or loosening a screw and allen key found behind the nozzle.

This is what the PCS bolt looks like, notice the notch and screw towards the front

IMG_0045.jpg

 

The rifle itself has six main parts: stock, bolt, barrel, reciever, trigger mechanism, and magazine. The rifle itself is relatively easy to take apart, with only a few key areas is no where near as difficult as taking apart a mech box or AEG.

 

Part 3

Disassembly and reassembly:

There are three screws found on the bottom of the stock that hold the rifle together, the first being directly behind the trigger mechanism with a small black guide surrounding it (it should fall out, don't worry); the second in front of the magazine well; and the third is the sling stud found on the front of the weapon.

IMG_0041.jpg

Unscrew all three and place them aside, your rifle should now fall into three parts: the stock, reciever/barrel/trigger mech, and the magazine housing.

IMG_0042.jpg

To take off the outer barrel simply twisty slightly in either direction and pull, it comes off easily.

IMG_0052.jpg

 

(will continue soon)

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After you remove the outer barrel, set it aside. Continue to unscrew the brass lug and pull off the black spacer.

IMG_0053.jpg

Once you have done that press in the two small rods on the reciever. You can find them by looking directly at the reciever and there are two small holes that are filled. Slap them out with the medium sized allen wrench and it should come out easily (may take a little effort the first time)

IMG_0056.jpg

The barrel and part 91(including hopup) should fall out, be careful of the small back nub that is in the hopup assembly, it is loose and may fall out, its small and plastic and probably less than a 1/4" long so watch for it.

IMG_0059.jpg

Once you have that out, pry off the small c clip thing in front of part 91. It's a pain in the butt but I've found that using your thumbnail and the smallest allen key you have works the best.

Once that is off, slide off part 91 (the big black block) and set it aside, you should be left with just a hopup and your barrel. Loosen the hex head on the hopup and remove the black rubber piece behind it (the part I previously mentioned) remove the hopup and your left with just the inner barrel.

To reassemble just reverse the steps I previously mentioned.

 

Part 3: Inner barrel electrical tape at home upgrade.

Disassemble until you are left with just the inner barrel and reciever. Meaning just remove the outer barrel and keep everything else on. Remove the brass lug and black spacer so you are left with just the inner barrel alone on the reciever. Place a small amount of electrical tape under where the brass lug would be if it were on your gun. Try and make it as smooth as possible and as even as possible on your barrel, meaning no excessivly thicker spots or bumps. You can go for the whole length of the brass lug or just a few inches, it's up to you.

IMG_0055.jpg

Once you place enough tape on place the black spacer and brass lug back on. ***ATTENTION PAY ATTENTION TO THIS*** If the brass lug has ANY resistance when going back on, REMOVE it. You have too much tape on, and if you force it on, when you remove it again, it will rip your hopup rubber.

It should go on smooth but with very, VERY little resistence. Once it is on, look down your barrel and check to see how centered it is. It should have little movement and stay in the center of the opening.

 

Doing this upgrade takes a lot of trial and error, but it ultimatly succeeds in centering your barrel and removing the play that comes with a free moving barrel in the brass lug.

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How many layers of tape have you put on SKH?

 

Cheers for the guide, I suggest you submit it to ASGAR or airsoftsniper.co.uk once it is complete.

 

I have a TW PCS m40a1 and it shoots really well (out of the box) after I realigned the HOP rubber and ran 1000 pellets through it.

 

Great gun and overlooked due to the lighter weight plastic stock. At only 45g heavier than the LTR, I think it kind of replaced it.

 

Keep your home made mod's coming.... and Good Hunting :a-thumbsup:

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How many layers of tape have you put on SKH?

 

Cheers for the guide, I suggest you submit it to ASGAR or airsoftsniper.co.uk once it is complete.

 

I have a TW PCS m40a1 and it shoots really well (out of the box) after I realigned the HOP rubber and ran 1000 pellets through it.

 

Great gun and overlooked due to the lighter weight plastic stock. At only 45g heavier than the LTR, I think it kind of replaced it.

 

Keep your home made mod's coming.... and Good Hunting :a-thumbsup:

 

 

On mine I've put maybe 3 wrap around layers, maybe 4. I just do it till I get the feeling its good enough, then I try it out. If its firm and holds the barrel and is centered, I leave it.

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wow thanks, um yea keep em coming cause man, still havnt got my bg hopup working....f I spent soo much money got the 6.01 tightbore, custom upgraded mags, and everything, but the bg rubber is screwing it up, and I cant fin it out. maybe can u do a quick assembly gude for the BG hopup?

 

 

Dude, have you tried a different bucking? It may just be your BG bucking was made incorrectly, it happens.

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Dude, have you tried a different bucking? It may just be your BG bucking was made incorrectly, it happens.

 

Where do you buy the BG hop up bucking and nozzle? I searched the asian sites but none had it.

 

and please try to work on the guide some more, I might be getting an M40 soon :a-laugh:

 

Edit: nevermind, looks like its right here on evike.. how about that?

 

so is this considered to be the best hop up option for Tanakas? its certainly not the most expensive. (eyeing the creation)

Edited by Mofomilitia

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so if I understand right you have a BG hopup rubber in a creation hop up chamber?

did it take any modification to fit the chamber?

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update!

well I got the rubber tonight, and actually, I thought it only came with 1 rubber....it came with 3!! So yea, I installed it, and because it was night, couldnt tell accuracy and perfectly how powerful it was, but by the sound, it seemed to be the fps it should be. I will test the accuracy tom.

so yea, haha im really excited...I mean I havnt been able to snipe for 5 months....now I can...lol I wont be able to sleep tonight....haha

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f.....no not really...now soething else is wrong, my gun isnt shooting, something to do with the gas, so is it my bolt?? What might be the problem with my bolt?? Thanks

 

 

be a little more descriptive, I just re wrapped and re fitted a lot of my stuff today. What is going on with your gun. So is your hop dialed in though?

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so getting back to the subject, are you planning on finishing the guide anytime soon?

 

and also im thinking about getting the M700 instead. its performance will be excactly the same (except stock barrel but ill replace it anyway) and it can take each and every fix right?

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update!!!

so yea, today I took it apart, and put it bak together, and put in the g&g striker spring....now this I have to reccommend to EVERY1!! This upped my fps ike crazy, and I shot out a .43 like it was nothing at atleast 420fps. I wont have a chance to check accuracy for the next week till saturday so yea.....will update u guys then.

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Hey, at least you got it shooting again ;)

 

Thing is will the striker spring cause more wear? I know you have the upgraded striker plates and would love to know how it all holds upto a bit of use. Anychance you can chronograph it in detail with temperature?

 

Can you list all parts too?

 

:a-thumbsup: Thanks for the comment on UTUBE.

 

Good Hunting :a-wink:

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Yes it will cause more wear, but to me its worth it, and really only to the striker plate, and I have the steel one. Here is a list of parts:

dee's custom 6.01 tightbore

BG hopup kit

G&G striker spring

KM steel impact plate

Custom work on the spring of the mag

also one of the homefixes mentioned by stealthkiller

 

Sorry, I don't have a chronograph, but even if I did the poorman's chrono, it would exceed the highest measurement. Based on these upgrades, it should be shooting around 620 fps with .2's.

 

What upgrades do you have in your m40a1? And that movie was amazing, it really was. I really wana pick up all of ur dvd's, but honestly, I don't have any money really.....spent on my tanaka and my tm mp5.

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The tanaka m40a1 in the film is factory standard. I was pleased with a 70% hit rate in that wind and firing freehand etc.... ok I should not have fired the 4th shot and should have repositioned but our films show all of our screw ups and not some things specifically for the camera to make us look better than we are.

 

Cheers for the parts list. Only parts I have considered are parts to avoid wear to the impact plates.

 

Never mind m8, I understand your gun has cost you alot and that you feel it is not worth buying the DVD ontop of all that. Sport has got to have a budget and you must try to stay in it, is my experience too. Your just shrewd lol.

 

The dvd (6mm Lone Hunters) will be £10 GBP + postage costs (via paypal) and hopefully out later this month. It will have full colour label and cover in a decent box. So not too expensive for 100 mins of film really. :a-grin:

 

Good Hunting :a-thumbsup:

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Hey, to answer your PM, the backcatalogue are available at an extra £5 each (there are 4 older dvd's) if you buy the main title too. So £30 + postage for 5 boxed DVD's (around 6-7 hours of footage).

 

Production will restart this month as all titles are currently sold out. :a-crazy:

 

Yes, 70% hit ratio was pleasing enough for a factory standard rifle in those conditions using super cheap pellets :a-shocked: .

 

Hope you find the firewire soon.

 

Good Hunting :a-thumbsup:

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btw does anyone know where I can get the creation chamber? it seems no one has it.

 

 

and please finish the guide

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btw does anyone know where I can get the creation chamber? it seems no one has it.

and please finish the guide

 

 

Yeah I cant find any place that has it either and im getting kinda freaked cuz im starting to hear more cases of cracked or broken hop chambers!!!! :a-confused:

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what other sites? ive seen a number of sites carrying it, but theyve been out of stock

 

yeah I cant find a single one, every site is out of stock. will the BG hop up chamber work just as well?

 

so BG hop up kit plus BG chamber for best accuracy?

 

 

also, http://www.airsoft-news.eu/comment.php?comment.news.1226

 

its not even funny how good Tanaka rifles will be if this is produced properly (and if the silicone doesnt foul the rubbers, which im worried about)

 

the BG hop up chamber would be a good choice for someone planing to get that ^^ right?

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yeah I cant find a single one, every site is out of stock. will the BG hop up chamber work just as well?

 

so BG hop up kit plus BG chamber for best accuracy?

also, http://www.airsoft-news.eu/comment.php?comment.news.1226

 

its not even funny how good Tanaka rifles will be if this is produced properly (and if the silicone doesnt foul the rubbers, which im worried about)

 

the BG hop up chamber would be a good choice for someone planing to get that ^^ right?

 

 

your getting confused. the bg kit comes with a new wider hop chamber, nozzle, jig, nozzle fitting piece, and bucking. the part 91 thats made by creation is the actual housing that the hop chamber goes into and bolts down the reciever to the stock. it in no way effects the outcome of your shots but just holds it in place. Silicon in green gas wont foul up the buckings I can tell you that in total certainty. And the VSR-10 hopup thing doesnt really seem that great. Yes it is the illustrious vsr-10 hopup but I will stick with my Best gun kit hands down. It just seems like too many small parts and I am already hitting about 110 yards max range. You over complicating things with all the hopup accesories your thinking about. The tanaka rifles are very simple and VERY sturdy. keep it oiled and clean and it will not do you wrong.

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your getting confused. the bg kit comes with a new wider hop chamber, nozzle, jig, nozzle fitting piece, and bucking. the part 91 thats made by creation is the actual housing that the hop chamber goes into and bolts down the reciever to the stock. it in no way effects the outcome of your shots but just holds it in place. Silicon in green gas wont foul up the buckings I can tell you that in total certainty. And the VSR-10 hopup thing doesnt really seem that great. Yes it is the illustrious vsr-10 hopup but I will stick with my Best gun kit hands down. It just seems like too many small parts and I am already hitting about 110 yards max range. You over complicating things with all the hopup accesories your thinking about. The tanaka rifles are very simple and VERY sturdy. keep it oiled and clean and it will not do you wrong.

 

now im more confused!

 

part 91 creation is the same as the BG hop up CHAMBER, is it not?

 

the BG hop up kit is what goes inside the chamber isnt it?

 

so since I cant find the creation chamber anywhere, should I just buy the BG chamber and it will probably work just as well?

 

 

and as for the V hop- my friends' M14 which is highly upgraded with an M120, cut PSG-1 6.01 tightbore, and a dozen other small things hits 385 fps and is effective to about 250 feet. think of what that would mean at 550 fps?

 

and you may be thinking it will just mirror the performance of a vsr-10, but thats where your wrong because as the spring power goes up it creates more vibration and accuracy suffers. in a gas gun this is a nonissue which is why I think that a really well tuned Tanaka with v-hop could have incredible results.

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now im more confused!

 

part 91 creation is the same as the BG hop up CHAMBER, is it not?

 

the BG hop up kit is what goes inside the chamber isnt it?

 

so since I cant find the creation chamber anywhere, should I just buy the BG chamber and it will probably work just as well?

and as for the V hop- my friends' M14 which is highly upgraded with an M120, cut PSG-1 6.01 tightbore, and a dozen other small things hits 385 fps and is effective to about 250 feet. think of what that would mean at 550 fps?

 

and you may be thinking it will just mirror the performance of a vsr-10, but thats where your wrong because as the spring power goes up it creates more vibration and accuracy suffers. in a gas gun this is a nonissue which is why I think that a really well tuned Tanaka with v-hop could have incredible results.

 

 

part 91 creation is the same as the BG hop up CHAMBER, is it not?

 

the BG hop up kit is what goes inside the chamber isnt it?

 

NO!!!!

 

your overcomplicating things!

 

go on wgc shop. Look at part 91. That is NOT a hopup chamber. It is what you place the hopup chamber into to bolt it onto the rifle.

 

The BG hopup kit is a new chamber all together, along with a jig, new nozzle for your bolt, and bucking. that fits inside either the creation or stock part 91.

 

Just look at both things seperatly and you will understand what I mean.

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part 91 creation is the same as the BG hop up CHAMBER, is it not?

 

the BG hop up kit is what goes inside the chamber isnt it?

 

NO!!!!

 

your overcomplicating things!

 

go on wgc shop. Look at part 91. That is NOT a hopup chamber. It is what you place the hopup chamber into to bolt it onto the rifle.

 

The BG hopup kit is a new chamber all together, along with a jig, new nozzle for your bolt, and bucking. that fits inside either the creation or stock part 91.

 

Just look at both things seperatly and you will understand what I mean.

 

im sorry thats what I meant. like when I said hop-up chamber, I meant chamber holding the hop-up unit.

SORRY.

 

look my point is, you have the creation part 91 in your list of parts to get.

that is no longer produced.

so would getting the BG part 91 be just as good?

 

 

btw please finish the rest of your guide, op in september.

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can any one confirm buying from best gun directly?

also I made a cool custom part for my m24 today, I made a barrel stablizer on a lathe, it works well, and like the grub screw idea, but instead I milled out a place for an oring, so more equal pressure is aplied

 

here are the pix of the stablizer, it works very well, my grouping have gotten tighter

th_SSPX2909.jpg

th_SSPX2908.jpg

th_SSPX2907.jpg

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can any one confirm buying from best gun directly?

also I made a cool custom part for my m24 today, I made a barrel stablizer on a lathe, it works well, and like the grub screw idea, but instead I milled out a place for an oring, so more equal pressure is aplied

 

here are the pix of the stablizer, it works very well, my grouping have gotten tighter

th_SSPX2909.jpg

th_SSPX2908.jpg

th_SSPX2907.jpg

 

nice input, hows that work excactly?

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it keeps the inner barrel from moving aroung in the outer barrel, and possible slight droop

 

heh I knew that, what I mean is what did you do with your lathe, how do you install it, and what part does it fit into?

 

I assume it fills in the space between the inner and outer barrel right?

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heh I knew that, what I mean is what did you do with your lathe, how do you install it, and what part does it fit into?

 

I assume it fills in the space between the inner and outer barrel right?

 

well it wasnt my lathe :( it was my neighbors, but hes super cool, any ways, I just started with 1in. diameter hunk of aluminum and milled it down to 9100'ths of an inch, cut a grove in it for the o-ring on the out side to keep it from moving around the inside, then cut a slightly larger hole sise then the barrel and cut a grove in that for an oring to keep it from moving, it fits nicely, and im pleased. but I think a more important upgrade would be to widen the fron of the brass piece that threads on to part #91, so that you can fit an oring in the gap so you do not need electrical tape

 

sorry for speling, im pretty tired :a-crazy:

Edited by skippy

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Well about the best gun hop up kits. I can officially confirm that you can get them still. I had to go to their website which is all in japanese or taiwanese or whatever but I found the kit on there and emailed them in hopes that they had a translator. This guy, Chen, replied back and was very nice. He sent me a pdf of their best gun parts list and I ordered the best gun hop up kit as seen on evike.com and payed through paypal. I paid I think 75+- shipped and he shipped it next day. Will let you know when I get the part I ordered it a few days ago. As for the website I had to search around I have it saved on my home computer ( Im at work). But for those of you seeking the fabled BG hop up nozzle kit look for their website and email them!!!

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