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StealthKillerHamster

'how To' Guide For Tanaka Rifle Upgrading.

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I wonder what would happen if you put a vsr hop up (one of the best ever) in this gun, and packing the barrel with spacers, along with skh's upgrades....

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Well about the best gun hop up kits. I can officially confirm that you can get them still. I had to go to their website which is all in japanese or taiwanese or whatever but I found the kit on there and emailed them in hopes that they had a translator. This guy, Chen, replied back and was very nice. He sent me a pdf of their best gun parts list and I ordered the best gun hop up kit as seen on evike.com and payed through paypal. I paid I think 75+- shipped and he shipped it next day. Will let you know when I get the part I ordered it a few days ago. As for the website I had to search around I have it saved on my home computer ( Im at work). But for those of you seeking the fabled BG hop up nozzle kit look for their website and email them!!!

 

sweetness, I found there web off of a picture, its on their products, I must email!

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Ah looks like the cats out of the bag

 

some additional mods I did to mine

-install a small O ring behind the E-clip around the barrel to reduce barrel movement

-I used a thick very soft O ring in my magazines to force up on the brass nozzle dealy, though this does cause the bolt to be a little more sticky than I'd like, where did you get your springs?

 

On mine, I wrapped the electrical tape sticky-side out for a few layers, and then sticky side-in in order to create in essence a tight rubber spacer

 

I also don't quite understand what the shims you've installed are doing, Ive used a K98 only pretty much, and actually have minor issues with the wood stock swelling and pinching the magwell making changes a little difficult, are they for centering the top of the magazine under the bolt in the m700?

 

one small nibblet too, I had to file the ID of the muzzle on mine since rounds were glancing off the inside of it every so often.

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After you remove the outer barrel, set it aside. Continue to unscrew the brass lug and pull off the black spacer.

IMG_0053.jpg

Once you have done that press in the two small rods on the reciever. You can find them by looking directly at the reciever and there are two small holes that are filled. Slap them out with the medium sized allen wrench and it should come out easily (may take a little effort the first time)

IMG_0056.jpg

The barrel and part 91(including hopup) should fall out, be careful of the small back nub that is in the hopup assembly, it is loose and may fall out, its small and plastic and probably less than a 1/4" long so watch for it.

IMG_0059.jpg

Once you have that out, pry off the small c clip thing in front of part 91. It's a pain in the butt but I've found that using your thumbnail and the smallest allen key you have works the best.

Once that is off, slide off part 91 (the big black block) and set it aside, you should be left with just a hopup and your barrel. Loosen the hex head on the hopup and remove the black rubber piece behind it (the part I previously mentioned) remove the hopup and your left with just the inner barrel.

To reassemble just reverse the steps I previously mentioned.

 

Part 3: Inner barrel electrical tape at home upgrade.

Disassemble until you are left with just the inner barrel and reciever. Meaning just remove the outer barrel and keep everything else on. Remove the brass lug and black spacer so you are left with just the inner barrel alone on the reciever. Place a small amount of electrical tape under where the brass lug would be if it were on your gun. Try and make it as smooth as possible and as even as possible on your barrel, meaning no excessivly thicker spots or bumps. You can go for the whole length of the brass lug or just a few inches, it's up to you.

IMG_0055.jpg

Once you place enough tape on place the black spacer and brass lug back on. ***ATTENTION PAY ATTENTION TO THIS*** If the brass lug has ANY resistance when going back on, REMOVE it. You have too much tape on, and if you force it on, when you remove it again, it will rip your hopup rubber.

It should go on smooth but with very, VERY little resistence. Once it is on, look down your barrel and check to see how centered it is. It should have little movement and stay in the center of the opening.

 

Doing this upgrade takes a lot of trial and error, but it ultimatly succeeds in centering your barrel and removing the play that comes with a free moving barrel in the brass lug.

 

PART 4: The Magazine Shim Mod.

 

First off, sorry for the down time. Honestly, I felt that I would just give up on this but after several weeks of people requesting me to finish it, I have actually found the time after practice to keep going on it.

 

So back to the illustrious magazine shim mod that has got many curious and pondering, quite honestly, what the heck it is.

 

In essence, you are creating a tighter seal among the O-ring in your bolt and the gold piece on your magazine by placing two "shims" on the top of your magazine well using 15 minute epoxy.

IMG_0051.jpg

 

To do this. You cut two squares out of the siding of a soda can, roughly 5 mm's long. Use some sharp scissors and cut to fit on magazine well. You want to place each shim near the front of the magazine well (the side closer to the front of your gun) and on either side of the well.

IMG_0050.jpg

 

Using some epoxy resin, dab a small amount onto the mag well and place the shims on top of it. Press down lightly so that it fits snuggly and won't move. Make sure you can clearly see a small area of black from the mag well around your shim. Having it too close to the edge will force it to fall off or not work correctly. Let the epoxy dry for at least 20 minutes before re-assembling your rifle. Once you put your rifle back together, place your magazine in. It should fit snug and with no play or movement.

 

Troubleshooting this section:

If your magazine does not fit in, or does but will not come back out, it means you have too much epoxy on the shims and they are sitting too high.

 

To fix a stuck magazine, open your bolt, use your fingers to hand level the magazine in the slot and push down. Once it's out, remove your mag well and use your fingernails or a knife to remove the shims and scrape off the leftover dried epoxy, then retry the shims using a little less epoxy.

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Do these upgrades apply to a KJW M700?

Also can I post in this forum for help with the KJW because of its similarity or is this strictly for tanakas?

 

A few can, like the shims on the magazine well and a few other things. others cant, like anything having to do with the hop up.

 

only put KJW related things in this section if you KNOW it could be applied DIRECTLY TO TANAKS, otherwise put them on the main sniper page.

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Do these upgrades apply to a KJW M700?

Also can I post in this forum for help with the KJW because of its similarity or is this strictly for tanakas?

 

Nothing is going to save a KJW M700 from being a peice of garbage until a replacement hop unit that fits is released, you may want to bother a retailer to see if the new VSR-type hops fit it

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Nothing is going to save a KJW M700 from being a peice of garbage until a replacement hop unit that fits is released, you may want to bother a retailer to see if the new VSR-type hops fit it

 

thats really an unfounded statement. my friends KJW outshoots my Tanaka and is pretty accurate at 250 feet (I estimate) with .43s. all hes done are a few at home mods, and I beleive KJWs can take VSR hops out of the box or with a little at home mod.

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thats really an unfounded statement. my friends KJW outshoots my Tanaka and is pretty accurate at 250 feet (I estimate) with .43s. all hes done are a few at home mods, and I beleive KJWs can take VSR hops out of the box or with a little at home mod.

Thank you... Don't be disrespectin' the KJW. To those of us on a budget, this rifle is a dream come true.

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mofomilitia was actually defending the kjw. he said that it performed better than his tanaka. this is just a clarification if you misread his post.

I was quoting him to say "thank you.." but the rest of my post was directed at TDS.

 

Quick question, will straight propane increase power compared to green gas? Also if the gun is firing at around 520 FPS on .2gs, what's the best BB weight to use for the most accuracy and range balance?

Edited by Behemoth

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thats really an unfounded statement. my friends KJW outshoots my Tanaka and is pretty accurate at 250 feet (I estimate) with .43s. all hes done are a few at home mods, and I beleive KJWs can take VSR hops out of the box or with a little at home mod.

 

If you baby any gun it can shoot decent, the reverse is also true, any idiot can mess up a tanaka, but my statement stands, KJW hops are split down the middle and leak gas like a siv unless completely cacooned in epoxy or tape

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If you baby any gun it can shoot decent, the reverse is also true, any idiot can mess up a tanaka, but my statement stands, KJW hops are split down the middle and leak gas like a siv unless completely cacooned in epoxy or tape

I'm still trying to figure out how to access my hop up. I found a pin that I can take out but it doesn't make a difference. Does it require taking the scope mount off?

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I was quoting him to say "thank you.." but the rest of my post was directed at TDS.

 

Quick question, will straight propane increase power compared to green gas? Also if the gun is firing at around 520 FPS on .2gs, what's the best BB weight to use for the most accuracy and range balance?

 

I use .43s in my Tanaka (and friends KJW) and they shoot the best.

Yes propane is stronger than green gas no matter what they say, im sure itll give u like 560 with .2s if your getting 520 now.

 

And just to clarify:

As with most clones, the KJW can perform just as well or nearly as well as a Tanaka for a fraction of the cost.

However, as with most clones, some turn out bad (KJW is not known for their quality control on ANY gun) and will indeed SUCK with no solution short of a whole lot of time, work, and craftmanship.

 

Personally I would never get one, but seeing how well they CAN perform (note he did do a few things, like cut the spring in the mag) its definitely a viable option for those with less money willing to take a risk.

 

And with that, lets all shut up about anything that doesnt have to do with Tanaka upgrades ok?

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I have not compared both aftermarket hop up systems.

 

I know people who upgraded several tanaka rifles with BG hops, but in the end; said they couldn't get it to shoot like a VSR. My tanaka with VSR parts in shoots like a nail driver.

 

I suggest the extra money is worth it.

 

Good Hunting :a-thumbsup:

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I'm glad to see the Best gun hop up is availiable in USA. I found it in a trip to Taiwan in 04. It was the single most important mod I made.

 

This is the beginning of an article {see Below} I wrote up on the G&G mag upgrades, it descibes my search for an accurate 'effective sniper platform'

 

I haven't played in 6 years, on that note of interest all 4 of my magazines work fine and the gun still reaches past 100 Yards but most of all it shoots straight.

 

I'm sorry, but not surprised in our pathetic little sue happy world to see they banned/mod this gun. On a different note in 04 I also brought back Li-Po batteries. It sucks that my little collection of spec ops only cool stuff is now main stream. I made a modified crane style stock with 2 2100mah batteries in series. The last game I played was a weekend long battle. I shot 1000's of rounds through it, never charged it all weekend. I pulled it out yesterday, I almost fell over I pulled the trigger and it fired. Its fire rate with an 140 spring was a little more like stock but were talking like 6 years. Thats crazy.

But enough rantings from a washed up old warrior who's battle stories are little rusty.

 

I need to sell the guns before the Feds come and take them away! LOL!

 

So, I came on here to see what my M700, is worth. I easily put $1100.00 in it, but that was before it was banned.

My rifle is well known in South Florida. I had kills over 100 kills, it would go 620 FPS with .29 but I found that somewhere in the around 550-570 fps was ideal. That was the beauty of the PCS bolt. I played in FL. and if it got real hot the velocity would creep up. Once it got to high the hop up got inconsistent. It could have went to heavier BB but none of them were as accurate as the .29 Super Match Maz. I had more than my share of +250 kills, but even more important is accuracy at that range and thats what the .29 and the PCS bolt provided.

 

DSC03171.jpg

 

The link is to an article I wrote up in 2004? Its worth reading if you can still by those mag updates.

 

http://forum.mnairsoft.org/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=10628

 

This photo shows the longer nozzle and a modified mag.

DSC03172.jpg

 

This article owes its origin to the lack of Tanaka M700 information out there and my quest for an accurate sniper rifle with a minimum effect range of 200 feet. I purchased a M700 Police back in January from friend Chris at Olympus Airsoft. I also purchased about 5 different weight BB?s from various manufactures. The gun was accurate to about 50 feet then I was getting inconsistent results. It had a left curve similar to a golf hook. It also was inconsistent in the hop up setting. The first thing I bought was a KM 6.04 tightbore barrel. I didn?t seem to make much difference. I also notice that when I took it apart that the forward barrel to receiver mount (part 91) was cracked. I had read of other incidents of that happening. I then called around in search of a metal hop up (really part 91 the forward mount, as the hop up is already metal. I found out the one on the M24 is metal! How frustrating that was, I emailed G&G to see if one was available. Yes, I got the auto reply assuring me of an answer in 24 to 48 hours. HaHa no such answer not even with follow up email. I was also in contact with Shawn at Airsoft Extreme. He is one of the few I have found in the USA with M700 experience. I was surprise to find he had a G&G Power Bolt in stock. Well, I ordered it. Who cares if it doesn?t shoot straight it least it will shoot harder LOL. I will write how to install the upgrade in a later review. So I find myself overseas and I am able to nose around in all these stores. I find a small company in Taiwan that makes a metal part 91. WOW have I struck it rich. I also find that this company makes a redesigned hop up assembly. This redesigned assemble has you cut a oval (they include a jig) in you barrel and give you a new bucking and a longer nozzle. I will review and give out the details in my next article. The longer nozzle is the key as it pushes the BB right up to the bucking. I couldn?t be happy about the results. The gun is very consistent and I have kills at 300 feet. The other parts I brought back are the G&G Power Pack, Knock Arm & Plunger Set, Gas Route Connecter Spring all for Tanaka M700 / M24. I wouldn?t have needed the Power Pack except for the Power Bolt nozzle is machined and not removable, so I purchase another stock PCS bolt and put the G&G steel cocking piece and striker spring in it. The funny part is the G&G store owner told me the Knock Arm and Plunger are just for durability. I asked him because you can never find information on what the different modification parts are for. Well as you can see it adds about 50 FPS.

PSS700.jpg

 

OPPS disregard this photo it's shoots the other stuff at 2950 FPS 168gr BTHP

 

anyone thats interested drop me a line, if you just want ask a question or 2 that fine too.

 

I still have the original owners manual, 4 mags, extra hop up parts, a fixed hop barrel (didn't work, I was thinking of real heavy BB and just letting the bb drop), probably a bunch of other snipe junk like .29 SM BB, loader ect.

 

Tyranny.jpg

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