Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
TEN36VX

2roy Hopup

Recommended Posts

Is anybody running the 2Roy hopup system?

Curious to know if it's worth it. Sounds like a good idea and may solve the Hop Up complaints...

 

well it really does sound like a good idea. for the record 2roy doesnt make it, its a small Korean company called Pax Armamentia, or Armament.

 

btw can you tell me how to order from 2roy.com?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I'm interested myself. Even though my tanaka fires well out of the box, its not as consistant as the TM MK23 (which uses VSR hop rubbers and is gas NBB)....

 

If it turns my m40a1 into a higher powered mk23 in terms of consistany I will be investing.

 

Good Hunting :a-thumbsup:

 

seriously though, is it possible to order from korea? the translated shopping cart from their site seems to be made for koreans only.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ya mine arrived from 2roy which I ordered through e mailing them- fast shipping, id recommend them.

 

ill tell you guys how it works in a few weeks hopefully.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ya mine arrived from 2roy which I ordered through e mailing them- fast shipping, id recommend them.

 

ill tell you guys how it works in a few weeks hopefully.

 

 

I'm really curious as to how well this is working for you. why not let us know now if you already have?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

got mine today, the new barrel end doesnt fit the fluted M24 barrel thats for sure going to have it machined down to fit.

 

the stock barrel end stops before this big lip

http://mi7.snappyupload.net/barrel.jpg

 

and because the new long barrel end is the same thickness as the stock one but alot longer, the lip (red arrow) stops the new barrel end from going all the way in to the barrel

 

I tried to grind it down to thickness but didnt have much luck, barely removed any material, im going to have it machined down properly.

http://mi7.snappyupload.net/barrel%20ends.jpg

 

im going to have the lip on the inside of the barrel machined down to be wider for longer

 

but yea, doesn't fit the fluted M24 barrel not sure about the standard M24 barrel, not to happy I must say..

 

the 555mm VSR barrel doesn't reach the stock barrel end, to avoid this problem the best bet is to probably have a vsr barrel made to M24 length and use the stock barrel end.

although I don't think that will work because the new end has an o-ring at the end which the barrel slots in to stop the barrel + hop from moving back and forth.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
got mine today, the new barrel end doesnt fit the fluted M24 barrel thats for sure going to have it machined down to fit.

 

the stock barrel end stops before this big lip

http://mi7.snappyupload.net/barrel.jpg

 

and because the new long barrel end is the same thickness as the stock one but alot longer, the lip (red arrow) stops the new barrel end from going all the way in to the barrel

 

I tried to grind it down to thickness but didnt have much luck, barely removed any material, im going to have it machined down properly.

http://mi7.snappyupload.net/barrel%20ends.jpg

 

im going to have the lip on the inside of the barrel machined down to be wider for longer

 

but yea, doesn't fit the fluted M24 barrel not sure about the standard M24 barrel, not to happy I must say..

 

the 555mm VSR barrel doesn't reach the stock barrel end, to avoid this problem the best bet is to probably have a vsr barrel made to M24 length and use the stock barrel end.

although I don't think that will work because the new end has an o-ring at the end which the barrel slots in to stop the barrel + hop from moving back and forth.

 

that black thing it comes with is for making up for the fact the shorter barrel length.

 

My dees custom barrel (AEG cut which is the same as the VSR cut) fits the unit and rubber (firefly hard from trinityairsoft- I heard bad about them but they did everythign good and fast).

 

I highly suggest you get a 6.01 from dees customs instead of deeling with the fitting issues of a VSR barrel, though I have yet to install it in my gun. this weekend hopefully, I will get back to you guys on that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
that black thing it comes with is for making up for the fact the shorter barrel length.

 

My dees custom barrel (AEG cut which is the same as the VSR cut) fits the unit and rubber (firefly hard from trinityairsoft- I heard bad about them but they did everythign good and fast).

 

I highly suggest you get a 6.01 from dees customs instead of deeling with the fitting issues of a VSR barrel, though I have yet to install it in my gun. this weekend hopefully, I will get back to you guys on that.

 

how did you remove the stock black thing (I assumed it was the muzzle)?

 

so what length barrel from dees do you mean? and just curious but why won't the stock barrel fit, the non vsr type?

Edited by Foreigner

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
how did you remove the stock black thing (I assumed it was the muzzle)?

 

so what length barrel from dees do you mean? and just curious but why won't the stock barrel fit, the non vsr type?

 

The VSR uses a barrel where with a different hop up cut than Tanaka barrels. simple as that, no reason for it just different companies, different ways of doing things. therefore you can not use a Tanaka barrel with a VSR hop up unless you cut up the place where it inserts, and you better have a precise machine to do that.

 

well mine is the barrel I had in my M16 which is 510mm. mind you this is for an M700 LTR which has only a 20" barrel. I beleive most of them have a 24" barrel, more like 600mm in length.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The VSR uses a barrel where with a different hop up cut than Tanaka barrels. simple as that, no reason for it just different companies, different ways of doing things. therefore you can not use a Tanaka barrel with a VSR hop up unless you cut up the place where it inserts, and you better have a precise machine to do that.

 

well mine is the barrel I had in my M16 which is 510mm. mind you this is for an M700 LTR which has only a 20" barrel. I beleive most of them have a 24" barrel, more like 600mm in length.

 

Aynone here putting one of these into an AICS?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Installed parts:

-KA air seal chamber (hop up rubber)

-KA 2roy chamber conversion kit

(I only installed the two things listed above today. I just have a picture of all these parts.)

ghillie005.jpg

-Laylax PSS10 vsr10 555mm inner barrel

inner barrel

 

Basically I will outline how to install, by using the installation guide that came with the 2roy kit. I assume most people who read this know the "how to's" in the disassembly process that I don't go over. Refer to this for unclear parts of this mini guide. The bold is the instruction from the 2roy guide.

upgrades004.jpg

 

First disassemble your m700 or m40 down to removing hop up rubber from inner barrel. You will also need to remove the muzzel or barrel end from the outer barrel for this kit.

 

Take the new hop up rubber and place onto vsr inner barrel. Now slide the barrel and rubber into the new hop up chamber.

-This is where I ran into trouble with king arms hop up rubber. The rubber said it was vsr user friendly. However, it was extremely hard to fit into the chamber. I don't know if this is normal for vsr hop up rubber's or not. I think it might not be a hard enough rubber material. I ended up having to real squeeze the parts together in order to fully get the rubber lined up with the edge of the chamber. Even with the chamber all the way on the rubber looks uneven and squashed. Looking down the inner barrel from the opposite end the rubber looks to be evenly spaced though.

 

Next, install spacer into the slit on the side of chamber. Slide inner barrel through hop up base and place the hop up adjustment plate into slit in top of hop up chamber.

-This part is fairly easy if the hop up rubber and chamber are on correctly. The spacer and adjustment plate are two small pieces of metal which can be easily lost.

 

Now assemble the hop up base to upper body of rifle.

-This part works fine. The new hop up chamber fits nicely into the "base" chamber and upper body. The inner barrel will need barrel spacers and electric tape for nozzle as well. I didn't like how the hop up chamber slid back and forth in its chamber. There is no set screw, like on the old hop up chamber.

 

Insert inner barrel to barrel end then insert inner barrel to outer barrel.

-This part doesn't make sense. Maybe I read them wrong or just don't understand but when you slip the new barrel end cap(muzzle) onto the inner barrel, it won't go into outer barrel since it's tapered. I had to put outer barrel on upper frame with the inner barrel and new hop up assembly. Then I slipped on the new barrel end cap while keeping the inner barrel lined up to slip into the new barrel end cap. I also had to hold the hop up chamber in place with my finger through the open bolt assembly. The inner barrel took a bit of force to push into the o-ring on the inside of the barrel end cap. Once the inner barrel slipped into the end cap (muzzle) correctly, there is no shakes, sliding or rattling.

 

Also remove origional nozzle from bolt cylinder and replace with new high power nozzle. Be careful and use attached tool to install new nozzle.

-Since this was my first time removing the nozzle on the bolt it was a bit difficult to remove. I used a pair of needle nose pliars and yanked that sucker off. The tool for installing the new nozzle is a piece of metal shaped to fit inside the nozzle for hammering in place. The picture on the instructions show a rubber tipped hammer being used. The new nozzle says its a high power nozzle yet the inside is not hollow. There is a screw type thing that can be removed easy with a small flat head screw driver. This screw thing has a hole for gas to pass through. Yet when removed allows for more gas to pass. I assume this is sort of a way to go from pre-ban to post-ban type gas flow. I like this feature of the nozzle, if my assumption is correct. However, the new nozzle doesn't allow for the bolt to cycle completely on the last shot of your mag. The nozzle knocks into the piece of the mag that pushes up bb's. I don't know if this is something that is faulty on my mag. I do know that there was wear and tear on this piece (bb pusher) already. One other thing is that the cycle of the bolt is harder to get started and finish. I assume this is due to the new hop up rubber and will get broken in. It's not anything major.

 

 

I didn't get a chance to check the shooting with the new modification due to it getting dark. I will get back with more information.

Edited by Foreigner

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had the movment in my hop up chamber too but I found if you unscrewed the hop up adjustment and took it off, put the chamber in and then screwed it back in, the metal rod on the adjusment bit that goes up and down goes in the the chamber and thats what applies the pressure on the the metal square which pushes on the rubber. so that stopped the movment, but I don't know if thats correct but would make sense other wise theres nothing putting the pressure on the rubber.

 

I can't really comment on my performance yet because ive had problems with power after I installed it, turned out my mag is leaking, but ive got the same problem with the nozzle, after the last shot it stops the bolt from being locked in place (to let the user know its out of ammo ?)

 

also there was resistance when I push the nozzle in in the hop unit, again I don't know if thats supposed to happen or not

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I haven't been able to do anyreal accuracy testing yet because of rain. However, I was shooting in light rain at about 225-250 feet and got decent results. I was sitting with elbows on knees. Shooting at a tree about 8 inches wide and making hits in a 8-12 inch group. Although there was strays. I shot about 60 rounds with about 10 wild ones. Although that is not what I'm looking for, I have yet to really tweak this new kit.

 

One thing I've begun to notice is how the bolt nozzle may affect the shot. Every time you cycle the bolt the nozzle pushes a new bb into the chamber. The bb's are not pushed up in the mag stacked straight which I think is causing problems with accuracy. Since the nozzle edge is contacting the bb in its center and not around the bb, this puts stratches and dents in some of the bb's. These dents can really make a difference in where the shot goes. This was the case even with the stock nozzle.

 

Also barrel spacers is a must for increased accuracy. I can sometimes feel the vibration after a shot.

 

When installing the kit I somehow smashed the hop up bucking. I don't know if it was the bucking being to soft or the wrong size. This was causing major accuracy issues. I then put the bucking from my we1911 in and it fit fine. Gas consumption with the new nozzle and the pcs open more than halfway was increased. I got about 3-4 mags full. The bb does shoot a lot harder though. I don't have a chrono, I could just tell it was moving a lot faster with not as much of the "floating" look until it reached those farther distances past 250 feet.

 

I definitly recommend this for someone who has the stock hop up or g&g rubber set. I can't say if this is better or recommend this over the best gun kit because I do not own it. I will post with some more results as it gets broken in and after I do some more tweaking.

 

If you have any questions please pm me.

Edited by Foreigner

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

so I take it that when you installed the VSR10 555mm barrel there was no problem? like mofomilitia had? also the KA Air Seal Rubber is just the VSR10 Hop up right? can you put some pix of your install too? im reading some of these instructions and I have an idea of what to do. but pictures would be really help full. paycheck is coming in and I would love to order it the weekend I get my check =D. only thing stopping me is well...pictures? hahahaha. im planning on ordering the following

 

 

KA Chamber

FireFly Hard bucking

6.01 PDI

and Possible the KA v2 nozzle *doesnt the chamber kit come with an extended nozzle*?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
so I take it that when you installed the VSR10 555mm barrel there was no problem? like mofomilitia had? also the KA Air Seal Rubber is just the VSR10 Hop up right? can you put some pix of your install too? im reading some of these instructions and I have an idea of what to do. but pictures would be really help full. paycheck is coming in and I would love to order it the weekend I get my check =D. only thing stopping me is well...pictures? hahahaha. im planning on ordering the following

KA Chamber

FireFly Hard bucking

6.01 PDI

and Possible the KA v2 nozzle *doesnt the chamber kit come with an extended nozzle*?

 

 

The chamber kit does come with an extended nozzle. It is a bit wider in diameter then the stock one and it doesn't taper like the KA ones.

 

Yea there wasn't any problem installing the barrel. The only thing I had a problem with was the KA air seal rubber (yes it's just a vsr hop up rubber). When trying to fit the hop up chamber (red part in the kit) over the inner barrel and rubber I ended up squashing the rubber a bit. I didn't jam it on either. Basically I ended up with the rubber not being aligned and excess sticking out of the chamber. I used the rubber from my we1911 and it fit fine. I will get some pictures up here in a bit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hrm...I guess I'll just use the troy nozzle. thanks. pix asap please? waiting for one more paycheck and then im ordering!!! xD

 

mmm....so were exactly did you buy all these parts...I was thinking of getting:

 

chamber - unco

ka nozzle - redwolf

PDI 6.01 - redwolf

fire fly hard bucking - poweredge usa.

Edited by EzeKieLL

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
One thing I've begun to notice is how the bolt nozzle may affect the shot. Every time you cycle the bolt the nozzle pushes a new bb into the chamber. The bb's are not pushed up in the mag stacked straight which I think is causing problems with accuracy. Since the nozzle edge is contacting the bb in its center and not around the bb, this puts stratches and dents in some of the bb's. These dents can really make a difference in where the shot goes. This was the case even with the stock nozzle.

 

You can solve that multiple ways

one is to round the front of the "claws" on your magazine, this will take less pressure to push a bb out of the magazine and therefore will have less of a chance to damage the bb

 

I don't know about this nozzle but I know the first BGS nozzles had beveled front ends like a barrel, while it gave a better BB seal the sharp outer edge could scratch the bb like you are describing, again, filing

 

Lubing the magazines and racking the bolt more lightly helps as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
You can solve that multiple ways

one is to round the front of the "claws" on your magazine, this will take less pressure to push a bb out of the magazine and therefore will have less of a chance to damage the bb

 

I don't know about this nozzle but I know the first BGS nozzles had beveled front ends like a barrel, while it gave a better BB seal the sharp outer edge could scratch the bb like you are describing, again, filing

 

Lubing the magazines and racking the bolt more lightly helps as well.

 

Yea I filed a bit here and there too. I also found that by using the method (for racking the bolt) described by people for spring rifles works a bit better. Since the pressure is more evenly place on the bolt.

 

I got the parts off of airsoftglobal. The kit does come with instructions that are in english. You shouldn't have a problem installing the kit. Once you get all the parts and begin the installation the instructions I wrote will begin to make more sense.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sounds great, any chance on reveiwing how well the shots are?

 

Right after I dropped in the kit and got the hop up adjusted correctly I was getting about 10 inches at 250ft. I haven't tweaked it much further due to trying to sell it (cold weather) but I know there is only good to be had by the whole thing.

 

good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Yea I filed a bit here and there too. I also found that by using the method (for racking the bolt) described by people for spring rifles works a bit better. Since the pressure is more evenly place on the bolt.

 

I used a k98 for ~5 years, probably 100 games, and ive never cocked the bolt any special way with exceptional accuracy, so if you are getting variations in performance for something so mundane something is probably loose

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I used a k98 for ~5 years, probably 100 games, and ive never cocked the bolt any special way with exceptional accuracy, so if you are getting variations in performance for something so mundane something is probably loose

 

That's what I was thinking. However, I took the bolt apart cleaned and assembled it again tightly. Due to the increase in nozzle diameter it is a bit harder to bring the bolt home. The variations may be coincidence, from wind or bb's.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
That's what I was thinking. However, I took the bolt apart cleaned and assembled it again tightly. Due to the increase in nozzle diameter it is a bit harder to bring the bolt home. The variations may be coincidence, from wind or bb's.

 

I think its more likely that the bolt and barrel arent perfectly aligned and the tighter nozzle is making this more apparent. Its very common in the m700 series guns where the weak barrel isnt protected by a stock like the k98 and people do stupid things like "free float" the barrel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I think its more likely that the bolt and barrel arent perfectly aligned and the tighter nozzle is making this more apparent. Its very common in the m700 series guns where the weak barrel isnt protected by a stock like the k98 and people do stupid things like "free float" the barrel

 

 

What do you mean by "free float"?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
What do you mean by "free float"?

 

He means they only attach the inner and outer barrel assembly to the reciever but not have anything further forward securing it to the furniture. There you only need 1 mistake of dropping it or turning and hitting something to crack part 91 or worse :(

 

The front sling point is there for a reason.

 

Good Hunting ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
He means they only attach the inner and outer barrel assembly to the reciever but not have anything further forward securing it to the furniture. There you only need 1 mistake of dropping it or turning and hitting something to crack part 91 or worse :(

 

The front sling point is there for a reason.

 

Good Hunting ;)

 

I thought that's what it meant. I just don't understand why someone would try and incorporate that onto a tanaka. I bought mine used and the front sling stud was missing, replaced by regular screw. I installed a sling stud mount about an inch from the screw. I figured it would be stronger and put less stress on the barrel when using a sling.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I thought that's what it meant. I just don't understand why someone would try and incorporate that onto a tanaka. I bought mine used and the front sling stud was missing, replaced by regular screw. I installed a sling stud mount about an inch from the screw. I figured it would be stronger and put less stress on the barrel when using a sling.

 

I don't know either, but people on this forum do, and recommend it, my favorite was when someone was bragging of his groupings, then a week later was looking for a fix for a snapped barrel because he was free floating it and using a barrel clamp bipod, classic.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I don't know either, but people on this forum do, and recommend it, my favorite was when someone was bragging of his groupings, then a week later was looking for a fix for a snapped barrel because he was free floating it and using a barrel clamp bipod, classic.

 

Does anyone know if the barrel end cap that comes with the 2 roy fits the tapered M700 AICS outerbarrel?

 

Or has anyone here gotten it to work with the AICS, If so what was done for it to fit?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

finally 2 of the kits just arrived at my house.... one for an M40a1 and one for an LTR. I don't have the hop rubbers or inner barrels yet and indeed need to get the measurements. I was hoping to not have to cut down the inner barrel to get it to fit without protruding.

 

Can anyone show me what difference there is on the HOP CUT of AEG barrels to VSR?

 

I heard someone used an M16 inner barrel in this kit. Would you rate the madbull version 2 (6.03mm) compared to other brands?

 

I am looking at the nineball hop rubber for this 550fps setup and am really hoping for improved groups over the tanaka setup.

 

think I'll go and strip the m40a1 rifle down and see if the endcap fits in the outer barrel...

 

Good Hunting ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
finally 2 of the kits just arrived at my house.... one for an M40a1 and one for an LTR. I don't have the hop rubbers or inner barrels yet and indeed need to get the measurements. I was hoping to not have to cut down the inner barrel to get it to fit without protruding.

 

Can anyone show me what difference there is on the HOP CUT of AEG barrels to VSR?

 

I heard someone used an M16 inner barrel in this kit. Would you rate the madbull version 2 (6.03mm) compared to other brands?

 

I am looking at the nineball hop rubber for this 550fps setup and am really hoping for improved groups over the tanaka setup.

 

think I'll go and strip the m40a1 rifle down and see if the endcap fits in the outer barrel...

 

Good Hunting ;)

 

I used a dees custom M16 barrel. which is the same as a dees VSR barrel so it fit well, but had to be cut one inch. im not sure how id rate a madbull although it certainly isnt comparable to a dees or pdi, but it wont fit a v hop system anyway.

 

From what I can tell (and I could be wrong) the difference is another line on the barrel for the hop up to sink into. on the bottom.

 

also I heard firefly makes the best hard bucking, and thats what I got.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for clearing that up.

 

I think I will therefore need a barrel under 500mm to fit the LTR, from what you said.

 

As for the m40a1, I think I can get away with a 555mm barrel as the new endcap gives you a fair bit of room for error. However, I have read many people get worse results in the same VSR with the 555mm barrel compared to the 430mm (both laylax 6.03mm). So I have considered carbining the m40a1 to accept the 430mm barrel. Yet, I think this will cost me power (fps).

 

Oh yeah, the PAX endcap fits fine in the m40a1 (I checked).

 

Good Hunting :a-thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry for double post.

 

I have still got round to fitting these parts due to still not having an inner barrel. The 555mm is out of stock nearly everywhere unless I want to pay a minto to import it from the US (I live in the UK).

 

So after looking further at my m40a1 I think carbining to 430mm inner is the way to go.

 

I'll get my team mates LTR sorted out before I commit myself to chopping the m40 down. Only if that works out will I get the saw out.

 

Good Hunting ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
since this kit is doing so well would any of you be willing to part with your old chambers and nozzels?? I have want to try a new hop-up mod and it would be easier getting them used from you fellas.

 

Sorry, but the reason why I bought this kit amongst others is that I can just swap all the parts back if I have problems. Unlike the BEST GUN KIT, which requires modification of existing parts and therefore no simple way back.

 

I've still not found a 555mm barrel for my m40a1 in the UK and am unwilling to pay through the nose for a laylax 6.03mm from the US.

 

Might be fitting a MARUI "upgrade" barrel for VSR10 to the LTR. I think the MARUI brass barrel is a 6.05mm and 430mm. Anyone know off the top of their head?

 

Its cheap enough and comes with a basic hop rubber. Also the hop chamber will be easy to sell to a BAR10 user no doubt.

 

Might be a while to I get back to you on how it goes...

 

Merry Hunting ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...