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I am pretty new to gas powered airsofts but I was wondering where you guys buy your gas? Mine runs on either HFC-13a or TOP GAS. Im in the modesto CA area and I was wondering where I can find it.

 

 

134a gas is the same as Duster gas, the same type you use to spray the dust off your computer. Just add silicon oil and the adapter from airsoft innovations and everything works just the same.

 

Top Gas, aka Green gas, is the same Propane, the large bottle of gas used for sodering. Airsoft innovations makes an adapter for that as well.

 

If you don't want to buy directly from airsoft innovations, a lot of airsoft retailers sell the adapter too. I got mine from Airsoftatlanta.

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I don't believe anyone mentioned maintenance of a gun with a CO2 cannister in the magazine, or exactly -how- to lube the gun.

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Hey how long can the green gas stay in a magazine before defaulting or damaging the gun??

 

Replying would help a ton!! :a-thumbsup:

 

Storing a magazine with GG won't damage it (at least a small amount won't, I don't know about a Full charge)

 

It's Red gas that you should NOT use when you store the magazines.

Edited by imphranki

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I don't believe anyone mentioned maintenance of a gun with a CO2 cannister in the magazine, or exactly -how- to lube the gun.

 

CO2 is alot higher pressure, which causes sharper blowback and higher fps. but it is a very dry gas, it tends to blow all the lube off of what it hits. all I can suggest is to lube everything that moves.. alot.

 

 

Storing a magazine with GG won't damage it (at least a small amount won't, I don't know about a Full charge)

 

It's Red gas that you should NOT use when you store the magazines.

 

I personally leave my mags with full charges, well... always. a full mag exerts the same pressure as a half full mag. if there's any liquid in the mag it is at its peak pressure already. the only way to keep pressure down is the spray so little that it all evaporates immediately and doesn't leave any liquid... I honestly think its a myth about the seals. it may be set in truth, but I think most people who think they're only leaving a little in the mag have in fact reached the same pressure as a full mag anyway. im yet to own a leaky mag after about a dozen mags with as much as 4 years of pressure and use.

 

NOTE: before some shmo flames me, its a fact that pressure lowers the boiling point. in a vaccum, water will evaporate below its freezing point and an ice cube will sublimate almost instantly. so once a little liquid propane evaporates, the rest will stay liquid (meaning its reached its peak pressure[..at that temperature anyway]).

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I need to lube my KWA G19 now that I put the new slide on and had it apart so many times. Can anyone give me a quick rundown of exactly what needs lubing on it and what to avoid spraying?

 

EDIT: Forgot about the JustPistols site, they have a section on that.

Edited by jfindon

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I havn't been using wd40 on my gun but I have only rubber seals no polycarbonate seals(and or plunger) like normal gbbs... but for all I can tell it is perfectly safe to use if I wanted to. I won't but my friends were asking me if they could because we all use propane instead of green gas

 

so this is what was on the wd40 website FAQ

 

"What surfaces or materials are OK to use WD-40 on?

 

WD-40 can be used on just about everything. It is safe for metal, rubber, wood and plastic. WD-40 can be applied to painted metal surfaces without harming the paint. Polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastic are among the few surfaces on which to avoid using a petroleum-based product like WD-40."

Edited by ajbutch123

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Don't overlube your guns. Very little oil is really necessary. If you're gun is wetly glistening (wet like a newbies GBB?) or dripping dust and dirt may stick to the lube and accelerate wear on sliding surfaces.

 

In truth, I find silicone lube a very poor lubricant. It's only saving grace is it's chemical inertness. Few plastics are affected by silicone oil. Silicone oil makes a good pneumatic lubricant as it does not attack rubber parts like orings. A very light film reduces friction on sliding rubber parts (read blowback seals) and prevents them from drying and cracking.

 

In all other places I find a very light application of white lithium grease is best. Most brands do not attack slide materials. Because it's a grease, it does not run continuously. I also find that white lithium grease does not stick to dirt and gunk very much, but it provides very smooth lubrication for metal-metal, metal-plastic, and plastic-plastic sliding surfaces.

well, I had/have a really crappy bell m92 (which I have corrected all of the problems... and now it is pretty much hfc m92 lol) anyways, I had to pretty much drop it in a bucket of oil to keep it working right... so some of the cheap guns you do have to keep them dripping with oil, if you know what I mean. But, mine is fixed

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I've been using this lube on my pistol, and it's gunk liquid wrench silicon spray. Does lube need to be pure silicon oil, or will this hurt my gun? It says it's fine for rubber.

 

 

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I recently purchased a new KWA Mark-series PTP 1911.

Using green gas, and a little dab of extra silicon now and then should keep it working nicely. That, I know.

 

But, what about actually cleaning it from time to time, and even just getting the greasy silicone fingerprints off the exterior. Can I just use mild hand soap and water? I know that I can't use any of my real gun cleaning solvents because they're too strong. But what does everyone else do???

 

Thanks.

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This short summary is about Gas Pistols and hand gun care, though much of this also pertains to gas rifles as well. The following is intended as a guide but please take care of your Gas Gun as outlined in your owner's manual.

 

Fill the magazine by holding it upside down and insert the tip of the can into the connection point on the magazine or clip. Make sure that the can is parallel to the magazine and that it is not tilting sideways at all. Make sure the nozzles get a firm seal, and proceed to fill the "Liquid" into the mag with short bursts of 3 to 5 seconds of charge.

 

Filling time depends on the mag capacity. A normal handgun mag is generally about 3 seconds. A 50-round mag is usually about 5-6 seconds. This will insure you get a full charge of gas, for the amount of BBs. Be sure not to overfill your magazine with gas. Do not fill for more than the specified time as you could over charge it. Do not fill for more than 6 seconds.

 

Pressing the silver or brass metal button on the side of the mag will discharge the Gas. This is designed to release the gas because you don't want to store it with a full charge which can wear the seals out storing it under pressure.

 

Fire the gun in warm weather as it will not cycle well in cold weather. Rapid-firing of the gas-gun can sometimes cause it to freeze up, resulting in improper firing. This is usually not a problem in the Summer months though.

 

Be sure to keep your slide and all moving parts slightly lubed with SILICONE oil. Do not use anything else. 100% pure silicone oil is recommened, as it is safe for use on plastic and rubber parts. Hoppes #9, wd-40, and other products will damage the gun.

 

Lubricating the slide will keep the gun working like new. Not keeping the slide clean will cause jams and improper function just like with a real firearm. Use care so as to not over lubricate the gun as this can cause problems too.

 

Each Gas Gun will specify a certain type of gas and it is recommended that you use the gas that your gun requires.

 

you said not to use hoppes #9 I use hoppes elite gun oil. this is differant right? the company said it is a minirol base like silicone and has no petroliums, thanks for your help

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Has anyone tried silicone shock oil that is used in RC cars. It's 100% silicone and available in different weights. I've been using this in all my guns for awhile now. Typically lighter weight for colder temps, but I usually just stick with a 20-30wt oil.

 

For those of you not familiar with high end RC cars, they use a shock similar to that in a full size vehicle. Complete with seals, o rings, and pistons. The internals are all plastic & rubber inside of an aluminum body and are designed to be "tune able" by using different weight oil and actually changing the plastic piston heads (they have different size opening so you can control how easily the oil flows through during compression and rebound)

 

Here is a link to the stuff I like

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/5422/

 

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